Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

1/0 for the runs between batteries and relay. #4 from the relay to the fuse block.

 

Added #6 about the two little tabs to press down. Will take close up pics on Sat or Sun.

 

Neat system. For really off the grid efforts? Your system got me looking at the CTEK battery charges/reconditioners. I am considering buying the 3300 model.

 

I just got one of these. the correct model will depend on the amp hour ratings of your batteries.

CTEK (56-864) MUS4.3 12 Volt Fully Automatic 8 Step Battery Charger,Black

http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-864-Automatic-Battery-Charger/dp/B006G14FK8

 

Can you take a better picture of your ctek device?

 

CTEK 40-186 D250SA 5-Step, Automatic DUAL 12 V 20 A Battery Charger

http://smile.amazon.com/CTEK-56-677...qid=1457248484&sr=8-1&keywords=CTEK+Dual+250S

http://smartercharger.com/products/dcdc/ctek-d250s-dual/


For chargers, I'm liking the 7002 model.
http://smartercharger.com/battery-chargers/#CTEK Multi US 7002

 

i love you

 

Here is how to separate the fuse tray/deck from the fusebox. There are six tabs to press inward, against each of the red arrows. Work from the left and lift up in short increments until the entire tray slides out. Pull gently up at the blue arrow points with a needle nose or small pliers.


Edit note: lower left arrow was pointing in wrong direction; fixed it Mar 6 ,2016.

This plate connects to the alternator fuse. If you are upgrading the wiring, you'll have to press these tabs down for the battery lugs to bolt on flat.

 

Dual Battery has moved down my priority list. I need to think it through since there are so many damn options and all of it seems a little complicated in my opinion (I hate electrical work.) Your awesome dual battery kit is still on my radar(for future.) In the meantime, I'm gonna beef up my primary battery and get going on my portable winch plans. Spring is in the air!!!

 

I have the 25000 and like it a lot

 

@Chuy you are the man! Thanks for those pics!

 

Dual yellow tops with ATO holder, promarine controller and solenoid, 200 amp alt same as most setups. Found some flexable solar panels for the roof I ever get a fridge.
Just added a Redarc gauge to the pillar.


And yes, that is the craptastic milage I get...12.6mpg

 

Are trucks are pigs.

 

That is the milage I get too. Got any pics and a link to the panel's that you have??

 

@Whitecloud here is the link, i was thinking of sewing this on the softopper or forming it to the roof of the cab

http://gpelectric.com/products/solar-flex-kits-modules

 

Hey guys, now that skygear (original OP) got the ban hammer, the mods put me in charge of this useful thread. When I get time, I'll go through the thread and get the OP updated

 

Those of you that added a jumper wire directly from alternator to battery, how did you install it on the alternator? The alt bolt is m6 and not long enough to hold two battery lugs (OEM wire going to fuse box and new jump wire). I ordered 1/4 inch lugs (1/0 wire size) and a junction block (Bussman JB3816-2) .

Surely, you didn't get rid of the alt to fuse box wire and just re-route new wire from alt straight to the battery? If you do that and blow the alt fuse, you lose all power to the truck (except to starter, but truck will not start if solenoid has no power.)

 

After thinking this through, if one wires the alt directly to battery, they can re-route the alt to fuse box wire to the battery. As long as you fuse the new alt to battery wire, you'll set. It's just that I'm sure I read that someone added an alt to battery wire to existing setup and I can't see how the new wire would fit due to the small bolt size on the alt.

 

I was able to replace all the wires because I upgraded to a 250A alternator. The only wire I didn't mess with was that damn 8AWG wire from the stock fuse box to the main battery.

 

I upgraded that wire to 2 gauge but that circuit is limited by the 140 amp alt fuse. I could not find a higher rated fuse. I think you are kinda playing with fire - if 250 amps go through the fuse box, you'll looking at blowing that fuse. Right now, you are sharing 250 amps with the other battery circuit; if/when that circuit closes, 250 amps are going to hit the 140 amp fuse. BTW, I cut that fuse box to battery wire open and it measures to what amounts to a 5 gauge wire; the insulation is thinner than the welding wires we are buying. See my thread for more pics,
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-box-battery-wire-replacement-upgrade.420450/

2AWG wire on the left, then 4AWG, then OEM.