Unichip!!!!

Alright, I've read through i dont know HOW MANY post's, threads, etc on chip's for the 4.0 Tacoma.. Now.. I have THREE questions. That I would like a straight answer, no bull shit, no "this has been posted already". Because frankly what use is a forum, If newb's cant ask questions with out having there head taken off??

Now..

1.) Will this give me a power increase that i WILL be able to feel?
2.) Will this cause any harm to the ECU, or any other mechanical failure?
3.) The only thing around here that has "chips,boxes or tuners" are diesel trucks. And lets say a 2005 Ram 2500 5.9 24v Cummins, has a Edge Box on it.. There are certain stages like, 1,2,3,4,5,6,7. 1( for best fuel,7 for performance) Is this box like the one for diesel? that you can choose the setting you want?

Keep in mind, I am ALL stock right now, and the only thing I want to do is get a flowmaster muffler, and maybe a CAI. I cant, and wont ever be able to afford a S/C or turbo kit. So i just want some play power.

now, Any responses would be greatly appreciated.

THANKS!

 

Short and simple: Get the URD MAF Cal instead

If you are just planning a muffler and a CAI, then then uni-chip is going to be overkill for you. You'd be better off getting the URD Maf Cal to dial in the tune.

Longer Version: The Unichip will be able to give you a full custom tune (spark and fuel), that will give you noticeable gains. but you will have to find a shop to do the custom tuning. Not any shop will do it either. It has to be a Unichip authorized tuner, and they charge up to $300 per session. Every new mod will require a new tune. Without addressing the exhaust, you can't do a lot with the spark timing, so you'd be more focused on the AFR which the URD MAF Cal handles very well.

Now if you are interested in upping the performance, but don't want to go the boosted route, the APR X-1 is the best bang for you buck. I could go on for days with all the features of the X-1, but in short its self-tuning* and will net the most gains when compared to any other tuner, or any other mod (minus boost or nitrous). While the X-1 isn't as costly as boost, its not quiet pocket change for most people (about $1300).

 

Alright.. thank's man.. I think what Im going to do is just get some header's with an exhaust, a CAI and nice rims and tires and call it a day! ha

 

there ya go.. keep it simple.

 

Get a good air filter! you dont need to waste money on a cold air intake. get some doug thorley long tube headers and a dynomax super turbo muffler welded onto your stock exhaust. that'll give you the best bang for your buck!

 

My .02, XrunnIT is the guy to listen to.

 

when you buy this product do you have to take it to the shop to get it tuned to my current k&n cai and flowmaster exhaust?

 

I am about to purchase a uni chip. I was under the impression once i select the mods done to my tacoma during checkout everything will run fine. Why do i need to take it in for further tuning?

 

@shr133

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/unichip-install-and-evaluation.417908/#post-11885601

 

XrunnIT, you have sparked my interest, I haven't heard of the product that you are describing, APR X-1, where can I find info on this...

 

I have a UniChip for my TRD Cold Air and TRD exhaust. Installed and tuned by previous owner. When its on, they say i have to use premium fuel. I supposedly get +35 HP, and 25mpg on the highway.. When its off, i can barely tell a difference. Im not sure it's worth it..
Can you install TRD intake and exhaust without it? Probably.
Will it show any improvements on the "butt dyno"? Probably not

 

Needs to be tuned.

 

Well I finally paid up and got the unichip, so far I like and say get one......
BUT, you have to get the tuning software and know how to tune....
1 of the maps des very little and the 2 maps helps a little but you need to set it up to make it worth it...

I also have the maf cal and it works really good and is cheaper but only controls the fuel..
And you also need to understand tuning to get the most of it....
The down side is you only have 1 map at a time and added fuel eats gas, but it pulls sooooo much better it's hard to detune it...

A bone stock truck will run better with a tuner and if you add an intake or exhaust you can throw off the computer...
You need to add fuel at lower loads close loop and take away fuel at full throttle open loop...
The unichip also adds timing, you can really feel the extra timing at all RPMs....
The extra timing also make run a lot smoother..
The unichip is really easy to adjust and can change maps fast...
It comes with a switch for 2 maps and you can get a 5 map switch...
economy, power, towing, 87 oct, 93 oct... But you will only need 2 or 3 maps on the 4.0...
Once you add extra fuel you only need to run 87 octane or a 30% mix of premium for heavy loads like the dunes...

The nice thing is you can remap in a few min if you add an intake or other mods....
The bad is you have to understand tuning...
Or you will need to do all your mods and take it to a tuner... But they only really tune for top end power not part throttle for your driving style...

On the Toyota there is no easy fix but the first step is maf cal, second step would be the unichip...
I also recommend and intake or drop in filter, muffler and intake spacer..

follow my progress with the unichip here...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/unichip-install-and-evaluation.417908/

 

Raising fuel in closed loop will do nothing except on your fuel trims. So the MAF calibrator is useless in closed loop. Same for UNICHIP if teh MAF signal is used in the fuel map.

Only way to modify AFR in close loop is to trick the AFR sensor.

 

Well yes and no, with the maf cal the computer does go back to 14.5 but you are cheating the trim and I think map position...
The maf cal will definitely add fuel and improve acceleration in closed loop....
Part throttle power is much better and also eats gas...
Every time I boost the map the MPG does go down, so it most definitely is adding fuel...
So for N/A its probably enough..

For boosted engines I think you need a better solution...
You would need to add the URD AFR CAL or get a URD controller....
I was back and forth between urd and unichip, I got the unichip because of the plug and play harness because I was still thinking about getting the 2016...

But I'm not sure the unichip is intercepting the MAF signal, I know it's controlling the F/A ratio signal so it could be changing the fuel ratio but have no to check it now because it's changing the signal out so my dash command is showing the same reading no matter what adjustment is in...
I'm still working on it and I have to data log both my maps to see whats going on....

 

No offense but i dont think you're right. MAF cal. doesn't trick anything but the reading of the Mass Air Flow sensor (g/s). In close loop ECU will apply trims to maintain exactly the same AFR. Same AFR = same amount of fuel injected. It's true that it probably move you in the timing map, but i think it's (at low/part throttle) on the wrong side and less efficient. It's maybe what explain your bad mpg. When you say your boosting the map, wich area of the map are you boosting? Changing the AFR in a cell of a fuel map will affect the optimum timing for this cell cause it changes the ignition speed of the mixture. In fact when we add or remove fuel, in some way we're cheating with the timing.

Do you have an AFR sensor or a data log system?

But like said no offense and i'm maybe wrong.

 

Right now I using dash command to track F/A ratio, fuel trims and timing..

I hear you and you are half right.. The computer will maintain 14.7/1 at a constant rpm...
but running positive fuel trim or negative fuel trim will add and remove some fuel...
It will compensate after it already added extra fuel, so under acceleration there is time delay so it tricks the computer for short runs into adding more fuel...
And under acceleration it goes to open loop faster and can hold open loop at part throttle for 10-20 seconds...
according to my dash command...

The F/A will still read 14.7 but it is faster, pulls harder, tows better and gets about 2 less mpg......

So the maf cal is not a perfect fix but much better than just the stock computer and good for .5-1 second 0-60 in my truck...
If you are running a stock computer get one now at the very least.......

How are you controlling fuel on your truck???

 

Wow, I looked at your page and your truck is sweet....

Looks like you have the maf cal, have you mapped it at all???
and you could add the afr cal because I don't know if the maf cal is enough when boosted...
And I'm not sure about true readings with the unichip yet.........
But you could unlock a ton of power with a controller but no easy way to do it...

 

current maf cal map