Valve Clearance Question

98 3RZ 2.7

So I got my new head on and everything timed. Checked valve clearance as per the Toyota manual, I have 3 intake valves that are a little tight. All the exhaust are fine and the rest of the intake are fine.

I know people drive the 2RZ/3RZ for hundreds of thousands of miles and never adjust the valves. Is this critical or will they loosen up? Maybe run it for a bit and recheck them? What do you guys think? I have some shims from my old lifters if need be. Not sure how easy it is to change the shims, the special tool in the Toyota FSM looks pretty fancy.

 

if you have taken the time to measure the tolerance, an you have shims on hand why not do it? It takes a little and is sorta frustrating at first, but you only have 3 to do then you will have peace of mind. Id say do it, will it hurt anything? not really.

 

Intake valves are not as critical as exhaust, since they can't be 'burnt'. Run it for a month or so, then check them again.

 

They will not loosen up. As the valves wear into the seats they will get tighter. As already stated, the intakes aren't as critical as the exhaust, but I wouldn't run it too long before correcting the clearances.

 

Dear old Dad always said a little loose is better than a little tight. Being a bit noisy was better than total silence.

 

Definitely adjust them to spec now. Use the $10 bent screwdriver tool described here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKEkOdQuJR4

And then check them @ 60k. It's easy once you get the hang of it.

I just went through this on my 2.4 (similar to yours) and my 3.4 (more gaskets, more disassembly, more valves, same shims, same technique).

 

"A noisy valve is a happy valve" -Anonymous

Don't forget to use a new gasket underneath the valve cover and when you tighten it, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN those nuts (bolts?). Doing so can result in an increase in valve clearance that's enough to make noise. I learned that the hard way when I had a 2.7 liter engine.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. So that little bent screwdriver looking tool he is just inserting it into that little slot on the lifter and pushing it down? Then the other tool keeps the lifter down to free up the shim for grabbing with a magnet? Ive got a lot of tools, I will see what I can do. Hopefully some of the shims from my old lifters will be a little thinner to get my intakes right.

 

Wow talk about frustrating. Cant find a way to keep the lifter held down, even a couple of times when I did get it held the damn shim wont budge! Getting frustrated. Gotta buy that stupid lifter hold down tool I guess. I want to get this truck running!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Schley-8825...s-/321755775651?&_trksid=p2056016.m2516.l5255

 

I purchased those tools, and still couldn't do it . So I had it done by a pro ($$$).

 

The bent screwdriver is used to lever the lifter down, then the spacer is inserted between the camshaft and the bucket's edge. Remove the screwdriver and pop the shim up with a pick tool, and withdraw it with a magnetic finger.

It's tricky at first. Make sure you can see what you are doing (I removed the pooled oil and brought light in close) and insert the spacer a little towards the back of the shim. That way it doesn't interfere with pulling the shim forward and out.

If the shims pop up but you still can't get them out, try a taller spacer (I had to make one).

When you get your first shim out, pump your fist.

 

Ya I just need something to hold the lifter down, and the damn shim does not want to come out. My old lifters out on my bench, insert a little pick in there and the shim pops right off. Not sure why the ones on my new head wont. I will try again when the tools get here and lets you guys know.

 

I used the bent screw driver like tool for motorcycles as shown on the Youtube video, and the special pliers and spacer tool. The pliers wasn't useful but the other two tools help me get the job done. I just couldn't get enough lift with the pliers while at the same time placing the spacer tool. If the shims don't want to pop out of the buckets, make sure you have the bucket pressed down far enough. You can also you a pick (pointy ended) tool to apply force between the shim and the bucket though the slot, then you use a small needle noose pliers to grab the shim. Once you get the hang of it you will have no problem. Best to practice on the easy to access valves associated with #1 and #2. Once you achieve rock-star status with those cylinders, you can move on to #3 and #4.

 

One thing I found that seems to help is rotate the shim around in the lifter bucket a few full rotations, this seems to help break the suction of the engine oil. Still waiting for my tools.

Where are you guys buying your different thickness shims from?

 

A shot of compressed air into the "slot" can also defeat the suction.

New shims can be had from online discount dealers for $7 and some change (not all sites list them) or aftermarket for closer to $5, I have always used OEM.

If you want you could take the part #'s from this site and plug them into other sites that might have a better bottom line (shipping) to your location or if you only need a few, pay retail at a local dealer and save shipping. http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/part...a-4-wheel-drive/camshaft-valve.html?PNC=13753

Then there is the salvage yard (used) or machine shops that do a bunch of head work (might have new or used).

 

I bought some 4 packs of shims from here:

http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/kl9512-7.html

But you have to buy them in 4's. The link is an example of one size I ordered. Don't use my diameter because mine was different from every 3rz shim post I read.

Great size choices and customer support. If the shipping seems too high, ask them to use usps.

 

Thanks for the good idea about the compressed air and the link to the shims.

 

Awesome website thanks.

 

I've become a regular at the local Toyota dealership and they give a "wholesale" price, which is about $9 per shim, next day availability.

I also called a local Toyota mechanic's shop, a one man operation, and he let me look through his supply of used shims, refusing to take payment. Gotta love the helpful people out there.

 

Another quick question.... Do you guys loc-tite the cam gear bolt? The torque in the book is only 54 FT LBS. Felt like a lot more than that to break it loose.