Cold Start Puff of Blue Smoke

Yeah, the PCV valve is on the back and you just need a wrench to get it off. I can't snap a picture since my engine is currently in pieces haha.

 

Honestly, I would just go to another dealership, obviously the current guys are retarded.
You could call Toyota corporate and complain these guys are trying to scam you, but most likely that would made things worse. They are trying to take advantage of you because you are a disabled person...

 

Where about do you live? A tw local may be able to come over and check it out.

 

Bealeton, Virginia.....it's that really tiny dot on the map between Warrenton and Culpeper!

 

Ah, well you about about 3k miles from me. If the dealer keeps screwing with you, posting in the regional thread may be more helpful

 

Aww it's not that far.....I have COLD BEER!! LOL Thanks for the help Matt!

 

That picture is from the Toyota Tacoma Shop Service Manual. They must be some real retards at your dealer. I think I would go to a different dealer if possible.

 

WTF did yall do to break these things loose? on my v6 I used deep sockets and a breaker bar to no avail... I did cut the shit out of my hands though thanks to nearby plastic...

 

Used a long 6 point box end wrench and a dead blow hammer. Popped loose quite easy. The six cylinder I don't know it is in a different location sort of under the intake on the drivers side valve cover.

Looks like a pain if it was over tightened. Both just use a taper fitting, no sealant required.

 

I don't think the technician did a thing. Got the paperwork in front of me. Doesn't say they did anything other than 'cannot get to duplicate'....'valve cover gasket leaking, suggest replacement'. I started the truck this morning, saw the same blue smoke momentarily, then turned right to the white 'morning cold vapor'.

The paperwork says nothing about checking plugs or pressure, which from what I've read should be performed.....but again I'm dealing with the same guys who says the PCV valve is inside the motor. I feel like moving close to one of you guys and paying you to work on my truck, at least then I'd get it done RIGHT.

 

I think @foampile is looking for customers...

 

Are you loosing a significant amount of oil between changes?

If not than I wouldn't worry about it. You're not burning oil during normal operation and until the issue (if there is one) is not worth the money to chase. Sometimes the best course of action is to monitor the "issue" until you observe a change or observe damage.

 

No, no oil consumption at all. I am not going to let it bother me anymore! Now onto the PCV valve issue....I'm checking later today. Thanks for the info!

 

Is this the PCV valve?

 

Yes that is it.

 

Took a couple to read up on everything, and everyone seems to have already given most of the good thoughts I would. As for the PCV valve and it being a available part I will say this: The diagram does show it as a separate part. Hwever it is not uncommon at all for there to be a part shown in a parts diagram that is not available as a separate piece in the parts catalog. So they could very well BE telling this guy the truth, that the PCV valve is not replaceable, if that is what Toyota Corporate Parts indicates. Sure, you can buy this part aftermarket, but dealerships do not typically do this, especially with a part from Advance, Napa, etc. So don't just all assume that the dealership is trying to rip him off by saying that he would have to replace the entire valve cover and gasket, unless we can PROVE that the PCV valve is a separate part in the Toyota Parts Catalog. I am not trying to side directly with the dealership here, but I see so many people just automatically calling dealerships and dealership techs con-artists and rip-offs. I worked for dealers for over 20 years and have seen this time and time again, having to explain to a customer that I have to charge them to rebuild their entire transmission, when a $20 part failed, or that I can't replace this tiny piece of plastic by itself, because it is part of this $200 part. If you want to scream and yell, blame the corporate offices, not the dealership itself. Many times they do not have ANY control at all over parts.

As for the blue smoke issue itself, a small amount of puff on the 2.7 is not uncommon at all. I have seen it time and time again, and have seen trucks go for another 100k with just that little puff in the a.m. Blue smoke, as commented, is typically due to a tiny amount of oil inside the cylinder in the morning. Here is the kicker: Is it actually ENGINE OIL, or is it an oil byproduct? Do you buy gas at the same gas station all the time? DO you know what additives they use? Do you use any additives other than the

$24 BG44K BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner Power Enhancer 11oz.

BG44K? (I used that stuff all the time in the dealerships) BG44K is an oil-based product. Have often do you use the 44K? I don't recommend doing it more often than every 15k miles at the absolute most.

An oil pass-thru can get into the engine also through the intake manifold, as well as the fuel system. So perhaps a peek past the throttle plates by a friend or family member is in order. Does it look clean, or dirty? I would start with this information and go from there. I have a lot of threads I am following, so if you want a direct response to a question, please simply tag me. Hope this info helps in some way.

 

No I think they are retarded, Toyota part PCV valve with part number it's $6.85 item.
http://parts.olathetoyota.com/toyot...cat/emission-system-scat/?part_name=pcv-valve

 

The part I made bold is complete nonsense.
I'll tell you the error that leads people into *believing* this to be the case; synthetic oil *makes it possible* to produce a multi-viscosity oil that flows better at lower temperatures.

For example, you can find a 0w20 synthetic oil, but it is near impossible to find a w20 dinosaur oil that is lower than a 5w20. You see the "0" and the "5"? That is a reference to the viscosity WHEN COLD. If you are comparing a 5w20 synthetic to a 5w20 conventional oil, they are the same at both high and low temperatures. That is WHY they are both called 5w20.

In fact, synthetic oil *did* used to have an effect on seals. But both older formulations of rubber, and older formulations of synthetic oil! Switching to a *modern* synthetic oil in a relatively modern engine (with a relatively modern rubber formulation for the seals) will be no problem at all.

 

OK, looks like it is a separate part. That is why I wanted to verify on this. There are times where they are not separate, so I wanted to be sure.

 

Yeah I understand, those mechanic do not reflect on others. Recently I am finding that private shops constantly do better job. Toyota just like domestics seems to be focusing on profit instead of paying their employees. I don't mind if I am paying $90 per hour shop fee and that goes mostly to mechanic, but I think Toyota is lowballing their mechanics because all I see is young guys straight from schools. Its great for them because cheap labor, not great for us (customers) because those older experienced people were doing excellent job. Now we have some tech claiming PCV valve needs cover replaced, or in my case they want $3000 to replace front differential because $11 CV axle seal is leaking.