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"Keep it Forever" maintenance?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by sactokit, Mar 23, 2016.

  1. Mar 23, 2016 at 11:18 AM
    #1
    sactokit

    sactokit [OP] New Member

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    I have 50k on my 2010 Tacoma Double Cab, 4X4, towing pkg, auto trans.

    Truck used in hot California summer conditions, mild winters.

    Done normal maintenance so far, ready for 50K service.

    I plan on putting in a new battery, since it's 6 years old, and your going to need it soon anyway.

    Will probably do the front brakes since the pedal is a little low, and your going to need it soon anyway.

    How about stuff like brake fluid flush and transmission fluid flush?

    (I don't use 4 WD very much at all, Transfer case fluid change?)

    The fuel filter doesn't seem to be a priority in the maintenance program, change it?

    What other items do you look at when doing a major service?
     
  2. Mar 23, 2016 at 2:21 PM
    #2
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    The fuel filter isn't a priority because there isn't any - just a sock on the fuel pump and that's inside the fuel tank - how convenient
     
  3. Mar 23, 2016 at 3:05 PM
    #3
    Pigpen

    Pigpen My truck is never clean

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    Access cab with child seat in the back, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite air bags with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to under bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, BAMF Tcase skid, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Backcountry MT 3 load E tires on stock steel rims, Toyo M55 tires (same size) on another set of stock steelies, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 24F battery under the hood, Northstar 27F in the cab, Redarc 25 amp DC to DC charger, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, OME rear shocks, OME 90021 front shocks with 885 coils, SPC LR UCAs, Up2NoGood 2wd low range mod, 4 Wheel Campers Grandby slide in camper, 4xinnovations high clearance rear bumper, Uniclutch 800 lb/ft clutch
    Change all of the fluids and filters. They all get dirty/ break down.
     
  4. Mar 23, 2016 at 3:29 PM
    #4
    hotrod53

    hotrod53 Well-Known Member

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    Weathertech floor liners moded to hold OEM floor mats, weathertech vent visors, Toyota bed mat, LEER 100XL cap, hood gasket mod to stop whistling.
    Diffs and transfer case change, I use Amsoil severe gear.
     
  5. Mar 24, 2016 at 5:18 AM
    #5
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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    N of Mex-S of Canada-E of LA-W of NC
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    Assuming spark plugs were changed at 30K.
     
  6. Mar 24, 2016 at 5:36 AM
    #6
    worthywads

    worthywads Well-Known Member

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    There is a filter in the sending unit, not just a sock, and it's got a huge surface area and good for 1,000,000 unless someone dumps dirt in your tank.
     
  7. Mar 24, 2016 at 5:46 AM
    #7
    Dagosa

    Dagosa Well-Known Member

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    I am not a fan of doing brakes and batteries just for the sake of doing them. Unless you plan on a long trip, just monitor each. The rear diff is a no brainier. It gets worked hard. I would change the front diff too and transfer case if only for possible moisture by 60k. The position switches in the diffs and case should be lubed so make sure you drive it in 4 wd at least once a month for 20 plus minutes. Otherwise you will have problems later. Like your body, what you don't use, you lose. If your pedal is a little low, top off your fluid. They are self adjusting otherwise and pad wear will only show up as a drop in pedal as the fluid level drops in most cars.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2016
    TacomaMike37 likes this.
  8. Mar 24, 2016 at 5:48 AM
    #8
    digitaLbraVo

    digitaLbraVo Derka Derka

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    Covered in stickers and chrome stick-ons for extra horse torques and foot powers. Icon sticker gets me tons of travel, dozens of milimeters.
    As I understand it the T-case is is still moving even when 4WD is not engaged. Aside from that: oil is oil, I'd change it with the diffs if I were you.
     
    Dagosa likes this.
  9. Mar 24, 2016 at 5:51 AM
    #9
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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    I would not change the battery or the brakes until you NEED it. You shouldn't need new brakes "soon anyways", not unless you put like 50K miles on your truck a year lol. Depending on your driving conditions front brakes can last quite a while. I put about 25K miles per year on my Ford 250 the past couple years and my front brakes are still at like 90% and they've been on for 4 years.

    Let that battery go until it's showing signs of wear in my opinion. See how much life you get out of it. You may want to stick with that same battery for next time. Sometimes batteries can last you over 10 years. Like brakes all depends on how you use your vehicle. You could be throwing money down the drain just assuming "you'll need to replace it soon".

    I plan on doing my front and rear diff and transmission fluid flushes and changes at 100K. I don't follow the manual, I follow common sense and go by how I use the truck.

    The fuel filter in modern day Toyotas are a lifetime filter and do not need to be changed at any point unless there is a problem with it.

    At 50K I would put in new spark plugs if you haven't already. If they have been replaced before with good plugs then you won't need to change those for 100K. Oil change and tire balance/rotation. I can't think of anything major that needs be done at 50K.

    Seriously, don't piss away money on brakes unless you need them. If your truck is 6 years old with that few miles I would take the time to inspect the brakes and make sure nothing is seased on them. Cars not being used can cause the calipers to sease and wear down faster, but you live in a warmer climate. Seasing and corrosion happens more in climates where they use a lot of salt on the roads.
     
    Dagosa likes this.
  10. Mar 24, 2016 at 6:08 AM
    #10
    Dagosa

    Dagosa Well-Known Member

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    Good over all response. The only thing I would add is, Toyotas need so little additional maintence, use your 60 k money to add a subwoofer or a new mod. That's why Toyota owners are always adding stuff......they save their money in not doing unnecessary repairs !:bananadance:
    OEM batteries in my Toyotas have been excellent.
     
  11. Mar 24, 2016 at 6:13 AM
    #11
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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    Right now I'm not so sure about that. I'll have my opinion by Friday. My Tacoma with 33K on it is going into the shop Friday for a Dx on bad starts.
    My two F250s have been absolute dreams.

    I love my badass Taco, but I just wish it was made with the quality and attention to detail as my Fords.
     
  12. Mar 24, 2016 at 6:22 AM
    #12
    digitaLbraVo

    digitaLbraVo Derka Derka

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    Covered in stickers and chrome stick-ons for extra horse torques and foot powers. Icon sticker gets me tons of travel, dozens of milimeters.
    My 2012 is rounding 65k and the biggest repair(s) were:
    1. A catastrophic battery failure (warranty)
    2. Leaking (scratch that, totally empty.......) Icon shock (warranty)
    3, A burnt up tie-rod end which happened after my lift during some fun flexing.
     
  13. Mar 24, 2016 at 6:37 AM
    #13
    Averageman

    Averageman Member

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    Oils and filters are going to give you the most bang for your buck.
    Go through your manual then go buy a Chiltons and learn to do as much of this stuff as you can yourself.
    If that is cost prohibitive at the moment buy a paint pen and date your filters when you have your oils changed.
     
  14. Mar 24, 2016 at 6:46 AM
    #14
    Pigpen

    Pigpen My truck is never clean

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    Access cab with child seat in the back, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite air bags with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to under bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, BAMF Tcase skid, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Backcountry MT 3 load E tires on stock steel rims, Toyo M55 tires (same size) on another set of stock steelies, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 24F battery under the hood, Northstar 27F in the cab, Redarc 25 amp DC to DC charger, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, OME rear shocks, OME 90021 front shocks with 885 coils, SPC LR UCAs, Up2NoGood 2wd low range mod, 4 Wheel Campers Grandby slide in camper, 4xinnovations high clearance rear bumper, Uniclutch 800 lb/ft clutch
    I have 4 years on my battery, with at least 2 of those seeing quasi-regular winching (tree service guy and off road use) with no add ons to compensate. It's dying, so getting replaced this week. 75K on the clock and the only real problems have been driver induced physical damage, like mud flaps and fender flares getting torn off - oh and that dent in the rocker panel that almost contacts the door. Sure, there are some minor design flaws, but with "normal" use these trucks need very little attention. Many of us, however, fix our trucks until we break something.
     
    digitaLbraVo likes this.
  15. Mar 24, 2016 at 6:46 AM
    #15
    Usethe2nd

    Usethe2nd Well-Known Member

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    My friend is still running the OEM battery and headlights in his 2000 tacoma
     
  16. Mar 24, 2016 at 7:08 AM
    #16
    Taco Pete626

    Taco Pete626 Well-Known Member

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    Such low miles! As others have said, definitely brake fluid and general inspection. For the V6, Toyota recommends 30k on the spark plugs (they are not iridium) if they haven't been replaced already. I forget the time interval for coolant, but I would guess that after 6 years, it would be a good idea to flush it and replace it as well.
     
  17. Mar 24, 2016 at 8:09 AM
    #17
    Aguaski

    Aguaski Well-Known Member

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    OP, I think the question about replacing your battery is subjective and dependent on the climate where you drive. I live in Phoenix where summer temps are extreme. The best battery I ever had lasted 3 years and my normal max life on a battery is about 2 years. If you go to any Phoenix area auto parts store on a day over 110 degrees you will see a mountain of old batteries that customers just swapped out for new that very day. The heat kills the battery. My 2014 Taco did not make it past 26,000 miles before a new battery was needed. In my area regularly replacing car batteries is a way life. I don't mind replacing my batteries a little early before I get stranded.
     
    Lester Lugnut likes this.
  18. Mar 24, 2016 at 8:28 PM
    #18
    Dagosa

    Dagosa Well-Known Member

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    I agree about the heat. I just sold my 11 year old 4 Runner in the avatar with the original battery. But we live in cold weather area so I have yet, never failed to get at least 8 years out of a battery. Heat is deadly but we still just start checking the battery twice a year once it gets four years old. In the very cold weather, stored batteries last indefinitely as long as they are kept charged. One of the very few advantages of living where it can be less then 5 degrees F for several days to weeks at a time.
     

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