Switch back to OEM UCAs?

Hey guys, I'm having a little trouble with getting my truck aligned with the LR UCAs I currently have on there. I don't know whether they're confusing to the average alignment shop or whether I "overbought" for my lift but no shop has been able to get me a good alignment. Right now I'm riding with my wheels looking like \ / and the occasional squeak. I've taken it to 3 different places multiple times (about 5 or 6 times total) provided them with the LR UCA adjustment sheet, and they keep telling me there isn't enough adjustment range to get them close to the spec I want (3, 0, 0). Which is confusing because I thought LR UCAs had MORE adjustment range than stock. AND I only have a 2" lift (Ironman lift front and rear) to adjust for!

The last guy especially seemed very knowledgeable, but none of them were off-road shops. The first guy pointed out that the eccentrics stops were basically flattened but I bent them back as best I could. Nothing I can do about that besides reinforcing them and I don't weld. I plan on taking it to an off-road shop next if you guys can't help me out.

TL;DR 2" Ironman lift shops can't get alignment specs even close to good with LR UCAs. Should I just put the stocks back on there and see if that will help the issue?

 

If you only lifted 2" there's really no need for aftermarket UCA's. I too had a time with getting my aligned properly. Are they adjusting the caster at the top or bottom? My guy had to adjust at the top to avoid rub and get mine in spec

 

Nope, any alignment tech worth his/her salt should be able to figure your UCAs out. They have TONS of adjustability built into them. Maybe go ahead and adjust the UCAs to the +2 degrees setting at home before dropping it off for alignment. Then they only have to adjust the lower cam bolts a little bit to get to your specs.

 

Its possible your LCA cam bolts are seized , sounds likely if the cam ears were flattened , so they would have a tough time getting the specs dialed in with the UCAs alone

Seized LCA cam bolts is a common problem with these trucks

 

That's kind of why I'm leaning towards going back to stock. But then again, I'd probably lose more money than I'd save having them put on (changing the wheels and tires soon too so I'd just have them do it at the same time).

See, that's what I thought. But every place I went to said they'd adjusted the LRs and couldn't get enough out of them. I even argued with the tech for 10min that I could SEE there was more adjustability there and he tried to explain that there just wasn't. Didn't make any sense then, still doesn't now. He didn't sound stupid, and he didn't charge for the small adjustment he DID make, and the last 2 places had said the same thing, so I was inclined to give him the benefit of the doubt.

I had heard about that, and the first place said they were a bitch to break loose... But I bent the ears back before I took it to the 2nd and 3rd place and they were already broke loose so it shouldn't have been a problem for them.

 

Are you sure the cams are turning freely and not just flexing the bushing

I had one seized to the inner sleeve that seemed like it would turn but actually was just twisting the bushing

If you don't have frozen cams then your alignment guys are just stupid because there is massive amounts of adjustment in the LR UCAs and going back to stock is going to give you less adjustment so not sure how that improves things

 

No I'm not sure it isn't twisting. I guess I'll bring it into the offroad shop and have them take a look when they install the wheels/tires since surely they will have some experience with LR UCAs. I was thinking about going back to stock UCAs because I wasn't sure if LRs were, for instance, only good for 3" lifts and ABOVE. So having a 2" lift wouldn't allow them to adjust that far. But I can see now that I was right the FIRST time and shouldn't let those techs make me doubt myself. I'll just have to find someone who knows what they're doing.

 

Do you know what the issue is they are having ie can't get enough caster or camber or possibly can't dial out enough caster or camber ?

If you look at the UCAs , is the SPC logo on the brass coloured flat washer at the top facing out towards the tire ?

 

Looks like I asked for some help way back when it was happening. (thanks for the help back then too BTW)

Here are some pictures I just took because I took it to another place after that thread. They set the camber to 1 IIRC and fixed the toe, but couldn't get it to 3, 0, 0 like I wanted. I can't find the newest alignment sheet.

 

Ball joint is in backwards

 

I'm pretty sure your washer is on backwards. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the SPC logo should be facing you or slightly forward for a +3 castor

 

You guys sure? I mean... that would explain quite a bit.

 

I'm very sure the ball joint needs to be turned 180 degrees

 

Damn, I knew there was something wrong... just not smart enough to figure out what it was. Thanks for the help guys!

 

Yep

With the flat side that has the SPC logo on it facing out , that is the neutral position ( +2 Caster )

 

See the chart at the bottom of the install page , the SPC logo out ( neutral , +2 Caster ) position is D

With your subtle lift you may want Position E ( +1 Caster ) but the neutral position is a good starting point

http://www.spcalignment.com/instructions/25470-INS_WEB.pdf