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What weight oil is best ...

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by US Marine, Apr 1, 2016.

  1. Apr 1, 2016 at 6:23 PM
    #1
    US Marine

    US Marine [OP] Semper Fi

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    What weight oil would you recommend for my 2.7 4 cyl in my 02 double cab pre runner , I'm also running a TRD Supercharger . I live in the low desert of Socal so it can get as warm as 117 degrees in the summer and as low as 20 degrees in the winter

    I'm also partial to Valvoline as I've been using this brand since the late 70's
     
  2. Apr 1, 2016 at 6:37 PM
    #2
    SJC3081

    SJC3081 Well-Known Member

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  3. Apr 1, 2016 at 10:28 PM
    #3
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Use what the owners manual calls for.
     
  4. Apr 2, 2016 at 4:50 AM
    #4
    Ritchie

    Ritchie Well-Known Member

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    ^^ Agreed... should be on the oil fill cap. Go with Valvoline synthetic.
     
  5. Apr 2, 2016 at 8:29 AM
    #5
    Mush Mouse

    Mush Mouse Club Soda Not Seals

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    its a Toyota truck and that's all the modifications needed
  6. Apr 2, 2016 at 8:44 AM
    #6
    sawed off

    sawed off Well-Known Member

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    5w-30 synthetic
     
  7. Apr 4, 2016 at 10:30 AM
    #7
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    Markcal and moe2o4 like this.
  8. Apr 4, 2016 at 10:34 AM
    #8
    moe2o4

    moe2o4 Well-Known Member

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    Thing with that rebate form, I bet you your only allowed to claim 1 rebate per address!
     
  9. Apr 6, 2016 at 11:06 AM
    #9
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    2 rebates per household. It's still an awesome rebate. I have not seen anything like this from Pennzoil, Valvoline, or Castrol.

    If you want more than 2, buy more oil and ask a friend to fill out the rebate form -- they can give you cash in exchange for the rebate check that will be in their name.
     
  10. Apr 9, 2016 at 9:20 PM
    #10
    US Marine

    US Marine [OP] Semper Fi

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    Had the oil changed the other day went with Kendall full synthetic 5/30
     
  11. Apr 25, 2016 at 7:46 PM
    #11
    TRVLR500

    TRVLR500 Well-Known Member

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    I'm running Amsoil Signature 10-30 in my 2.7. It gets real cold here in Wyoming and haven't had any problems. I switched to the 10-30 for one reason. I heard some piston slap once or twice for a very brief moment with the 5-30 when it was around 70 degrees. thicker oil helps with that and I haven't heard it since. As far as Amsoil is considered the difference in flow in frigid temps is only about 3 degrees so I don't think anything is starving for oil when it hits -15. A synthetic 10-30 will go well below the temps we see here. Yes, it does "seem" to turn over slightly slower with the 10-30 but it's almost imperceptible and it could just be the battery at those temps.
     
  12. Apr 26, 2016 at 8:07 AM
    #12
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    In addition to the 15,000 mile engine guarantee, Mobil 1 EP is claimed to protect better at high temperatures than Mobil 1... at least that's what the label says. In the "protect in high engine temperatures" category, the back label gives 2 stars for Mobil 1, 3 stars for Mobil 1 EP. I normally run Mobil 1 but my Walmart was out, so I bought the EP this time. For whatever it's worth.
     
  13. Apr 26, 2016 at 12:06 PM
    #13
    2.7taco

    2.7taco Well-Known Member

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    Fat Bobs 2.75 lift and level with short AAL, 16x8 Level 8 Guardian Wheels, 245/75R16 Toyo Open Country ATII, custom trans shift kit(home made), Trans temp. and Vac gauge, URD fuel pump upgrade(going back to stock soon).
    Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum in 5W-30 or Mobil 1 Synthetic in 5W-30.

    I do believe Mobil has changed the oils some. Example, Mobil 1 Synthetic I believe used to be more robust in the ability to hold up to heat and the additive package was more aggressive.

    I do have over 185K on my 2.7 and I believe the rings are beginning to stick. I have run Mobil 1 5W-30 since around 70,000 miles. Over all its a great oil for the price. I wont blame the oil for the rings sticking I believe that has to do with high RPM heat and abuse.
     
  14. Apr 29, 2016 at 12:28 PM
    #14
    2.7taco

    2.7taco Well-Known Member

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    Just an update there was a change in Mobil 1 because of the SN category. Guess I was using SM longer than I thought.

    There is an upcoming change in the oils some will be reverse compatible and others will not be.

    I will post that information later on a new thread.
     
  15. Apr 29, 2016 at 12:32 PM
    #15
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Based on what documented material?

    Not saying they haven't. Just looking for more substance than opinion.
     
  16. Apr 29, 2016 at 2:06 PM
    #16
    2.7taco

    2.7taco Well-Known Member

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    I checked my bottle and it was older SM. Which had different additive package.
     
  17. Apr 29, 2016 at 2:33 PM
    #17
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    I do believe... this goes back to the lawsuit between Castrol and ExxonMobil. Without going into details (look it up if you want), what it means to us is that today's "full synthetic" motor oils are not truly full synthetic. This may sound like false advertising, and in the strictest sense, it is. But this is the wording that the industry now allows on the motor oil labels because of the lawsuit.

    Today's full synthetics are *very* highly refined mineral oils. Depending on the brand and price, they often have a certain percentage of synthetic base stock. But while they may not be true synthetics, they are still extremely good oils - Mobil 1 EP guarantees 15,000 mile intervals in non-severe service. (While I would never go that far, I still say wow.) The up-side is that we no longer pay $15+ per quart of synthetic oil like back before the Castrol lawsuit. DIY synthetic oil changes with premium filter cost me around $30. Add the $12 rebate per 5-quart jug, and a $3.25 Mobil 1 filter from Rock Auto, that's a synthetic oil change for $16. No complaining here.
     
  18. Apr 29, 2016 at 3:04 PM
    #18
    2.7taco

    2.7taco Well-Known Member

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    Fat Bobs 2.75 lift and level with short AAL, 16x8 Level 8 Guardian Wheels, 245/75R16 Toyo Open Country ATII, custom trans shift kit(home made), Trans temp. and Vac gauge, URD fuel pump upgrade(going back to stock soon).
    The difference was a change from SM rated oils to SN rated oils. The differences are in the additive package and the amount of phosphorous allowed in the oil. .
    Also regular Mobil 1 Advanced Synthetic has a different additive package than Mobil 1 Extended Performance. I was referring to the Advanced Synthetic in my case but it was an older SM grade.

    There are some fully synthetics but mostly they are highly unnecessary. PAO(Poly Alpha Olefins) are some absolutely awesome oils but expensive. Most synthetics now are Group III plus base stock that are heavily refined and also include blends of Group II base stocks. It all depends on the end
     
  19. Apr 30, 2016 at 9:44 AM
    #19
    snefo

    snefo Well-Known Member

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    The Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w20 and 0w40 European Formula are not less than 70% PAO base from my research, and both have a pour point of -54 deg C! :eek: These are their "best" oils if this is your only measure. 5 Qts. of 0w20 and 1 Qt. of 0w40 mixed together gives a heavy 0w20 oil (9.23 Cst @ 100 deg. C) with a TBN boost. This plus an oversized Fram XG8A filter + 6.5 quart sump =Once a year baby! :)
     
    2.7taco likes this.
  20. Apr 30, 2016 at 6:35 PM
    #20
    2.7taco

    2.7taco Well-Known Member

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    Fat Bobs 2.75 lift and level with short AAL, 16x8 Level 8 Guardian Wheels, 245/75R16 Toyo Open Country ATII, custom trans shift kit(home made), Trans temp. and Vac gauge, URD fuel pump upgrade(going back to stock soon).
    Why the mix of oil viscosity?
     

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