Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Hey everyone! I am trying to wire up a deep cycle marine battery with my stock battery but I have no knowledge of any of the parts or processes to make that happen. Could anyone recommend some reasources I could look into to find what I need to make it happen?

 

i would recommend this guy @HeliMedic shoot him a message and call him up he'll walk you through the whole process and sent you all the cables you need pre terminated. his customer service and products are top notch! heres a link to his group guy lot of good info in there https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/off-grid-engineering-dual-battery-trays-wiring-kits.420680/

 

I have found that this thread is all that is needed to understand all of the implications of this task and what is required to sort it all out for yourself. If that is your thing.

Lots of great info on this thread for the do-it-your-self-er.

 

Thanks for all the shoutouts on this thread guys! @ROK-NJA @hamiltonuh60

@docloco if you're still looking for cables, let me know. Even if you're dead set on doing all the work yourself, I can provide you with all the stuff you need in one stop. I source all this stuff in bulk, so we could definitely help each other out. If you know the lengths of your cables, I could even preterminate them for you with hydraulically crimped, aviation grade lugs, Techflex, and 3M heat shrink.

@Mountaineer/4x4 If you need help with your system, give me a shout. I'd be happy to answer any questions you may have.

 

I already bought all the supplies. Been out of town on business. Thanks though.

 

I had prepared a reply, but apparently I forgot to hit send. Could be useful info for others though ... Crimp Supply has great prices for all cable sizes. They are in the midwest and have their own website, but they appear to have better prices through Amazon, as they throw in five battery lugs with each order. $32 for 10 feet each of black and red 2AWG cable. Also got most of the lugs from them.

$185 Crimp Supply Ultra-Flexible Car Battery/Welding Cable - 2 Gauge, (25 Feet Red/25 Feet Black) - and 5 Copper Lugs

http://smile.amazon.com/Crimp-Suppl...8&qid=1460359427&sr=1-1&keywords=crimp+supply

Got lots of different heat shrink tubing; best one I like are from Lawrence Marine Products:

$9 4 Feet Flexible Dual-Wall Adhesive Heat Shrink 3/4" RED 3:1 Ratio

http://smile.amazon.com/Feet-Flexib...1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

10-ton hydraulic crimper:

Best Choice Products 10 Ton Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool 9 Dies

http://smile.amazon.com/Best-Choice...1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Uxcell has good corrugated tubing (non-split design), available from Amazon.

 

Ive done that before. No worries. Starting the project today with all supplies in hand.

 

Still a work in progress, but about 98% done.

 

Nice work docloco

 

Here's my setup. My starting battery has been relocated to the passenger side tray. My aux. battery is in the factory location with the Blue Sea fuse box nearby to power aux. loads. My winch is hooked up to my main battery as recommended by most winch manufacturers.

I am aware that my Redline hood struts are not mounted per the instructions. I did this for a little more clearance from the battery. However, they will fit just fine without doing this.

 

All that left is to wire up the remote switch and put some split loom around some of the wires to clean it up. Not bad for an electrical rookie.

 

Not at all. It looks great!

 

For the money, and added reserve capacity the Xs power xp3000 battery is unbeatable with 120 Ah @ 20 amps per hour draw and only weighs 73#.

 

Your guys' engine bays look too clean! I finished my project also, but it's been raining out here. Will post some pics soon.

 

Not sure what this is called in my picture the silver electrical box I'm not seeing it relocated in any pictures

 

I honestly didn't come in here to sell a product... but here it is...

I manufacture this battery tray. As you can see, the "fuel resistor" you are referring to simply relocates to the integrated tab on the back of the battery tray.

 

Shoot @Iggy. a message! He has a clean dual battery setup and knows his stuff. He has been helping me with my dual battery setup as well as OBA

 

Some pics of my auxiliary battery install (She's a desert runner). Deka Intimidator AGM as aux batt; conventional Interstate as primary. Painted where custom air ducting is going to be routed. (Need to ground aux battery to body and engine - currently connecting only to primary batt neg termainal.)


Both Cole Hersee relays (200 amp #24213 as isolator; 85 amp #24059 for aux batt accessories) are controlled by single DPDT switch. Each battery is hardwired to a Starter switch on fender wall. I can direct either battery to the starter; combine them both; or disconnect them both. Used 1/0 wire to bring alt juice to a distribution block since I couldn't connect two battery lugs to alt bolt; it's just to short to do so.


Battery switch, Blue Sea #6007. In off position, the knob slides out, providing an extra theft measure. Used 2/0 wiring - I swear engine turns over easier with either battery than with the 2AWG OEM cable.


DPDT switch on center console. Sierra International TG19520. Currently wired for manual operation; in future I plan to wire the isolator to ignition-on power, but will keep it wired to the switch to have option to turn off isolator manually.


It got dark on me. These are cig lighter Drok voltmeters. Cheap and come in three colors. Accuracy appears to be .05 volts off, but they don't have to be super accurate. Left voltmeter is on aftermarket power strip connected to aux batt; right meter is OEM cig lighter port.



This has been one of my longest car projects to date. Probably took longer than swapping out an engine on my sister's 03 Matrix! My bro and I did that over two half days. This project took some 4 weeks over 2-3 hour week nights and some Saturdays and Sundays. The cable cutting-to-length; the crimping; the re-wiring the of alt and starter cables; the DPDT switch installation; the starter on/off switch; the 2nd battery tray install; the add-a-fuse holder for the aux battery; and got side-tracked doing a how-to for taking apart the fuse box to replace the alt fuse. And I still have some loose ends. But for the most part it's done and it's quite a rewarding feeling. Reading through this entire thread probably helped the most as did some youtube videos and websites.

If anyone lives in the area and needs a crimper or some lugs, or some pointers, you're welcome to stop by my garage.

 

Having just completed a similar project, I can say there are numerous variables to consider and follow.
Where will you be placing the battery? This can help determine if you should look at a solenoid or diode type relay. Do you want to spend the money on a 'smart' relay ($100-250 + taking time to wire it) or are you willing to settle on a relatively inexpensive relay ($20-60)? Can you afford some new tools to help get this job done?

There are certain recommendations that will help your installation succeed, such as upgrading the current wiring (the Big 3 Upgrade). Getting a good battery, like an AGM style battery.

This two websites help me out a lot as well as reading this thread from start to finish.
https://www.safaribooksonline.com/library/view/car-pc-hacks/0596008716/ch01s11.html

https://caravanchronicles.com/2014/03/16/relay-vsr-scr-whats-the-difference/

 

No ABS module over the pass fender = 27F Wirthco battery tray (your recommendation)


27F Optima Yellow on passenger side = reduced "Taco Lean"


Still gotta finish up the wiring. Waiting for my lugs to arrive and my friend's crimper. My setup is strikingly similar to yours. I even have the same damn flooded primary battery from Costco. Same ANL Fuse Holder. Blue Seas 9003e switch, though I'm liking the security feature on yours. I might change the switch. I'll post up when I'm done.
Thanks for your help Chuy.