My dealer is shady - help my prepare for delivery/financing.

I walked into a Toyota dealer back on December 1st to window shop a 2016 Tacoma TRD OR. Long story short, I was cornered by two salesman and a manager within 15 minutes and got talked into ordering one since they didn't have what I wanted in stock. I was open to the idea anyway and didn't have to commit anything but a refundable $500 (got that in writing) until delivery.

I was told I would have it in 8 weeks, they played with some numbers and did some shady things like "What do you want your monthly payments to look like", covering parts of the paper with another, etc. By the end of it I just wanted out of their, got them to admit financing was open to renegotiation, and got out.

Fast forward to now - delivery is scheduled for 18 weeks later (NOT 8 like promised). I've been over the paperwork since then and found they did they 'ol "Market Value" bullshit at $1000 over MSRP with a $1000 "Manager's" discount. They even told me "I'm doing you a favor - since this is a special order we have to put some work into going out and finding this truck; Normally we don't discount special orders".

I've prepared myself with the cost sheet from here on Tacoma world, gotten some prices from sources like the AMEX auto program, etc.

I guess I have three questions -

-How should I best approach this when I sit down with the financing guy? As far as I'm concerned, they broke their word first with the outright lie on delivery window, so any deal we "shook" on is null and void in my book. Nothing I signed was binding and I have it in writing that my $500 is refundable.

-Who pays for the $750 New Grad discount? The dealer or Toyota corporate? If it's corporate, shouldn't I be able to negotiate a fair price, THEN have the $750 off on top since corporate pays for it?

-How effective would suggesting I'm willing to get Toyota corporate involved? I'm already contemplating it since receiving non-stop emails, text messages, and phone calls with voicemail from multiple dealerships in multiple states for weeks since using the AMEX auto price tool. (I've since blocked them all so they don't interrupt my life, but they're persistent - multiple voicemails from the same sales people daily for weeks).

 

I would just find a different dealer

 

Absolutely the best route, but believe it or not the other dealer in the city is even worse - I went to them first and they tried to talk me into ordering, but they were open about $500 over MSRP with no discount, denied the student discount existed, and told me I would need to put a non-refundable $1000 down. They're also the primary dealer harassing me by phone (without realizing who I am) since using the AMEX auto program.

I would totally go to another dealer, but I'm in a fairly isolated midwest city and I've had poor experiences so far - what would guarantee another dealer would be better?

I would prefer to try and confront the current dealer and force them into a fair deal rather than start over. The current dealer has a huge wall of Toyota president's awards...something tells me they're susceptible to a threat to call corporate.

 

Agreed, dump them and find a new dealer. They'll refund your deposit.

 

Ok if this is your only or best option, you could do it this way.

1. Get your $500 deposit refunded.
2. Do your research and figure out exactly how much you want to pay for your truck. Check http://truecar.com and add the options you want to see what invoice is and what constitutes a good deal.
3. Go to the dealer and talk to a sales manager. Give them your name and phone number. Tell them what you want and how much you want to pay for it. IF they won't get close to your number, walk out.

They'll probably call you and try to get you back in. If they don't call you, go back a few days later and try the same thing again.

Don't be afraid to walk out, you have to call their bluff. They'll realize a sale with a low commission is better than no sale at all.

 

I'm currently doing essentially that - I want a TRD OR DCLB - those are nearly non-existant in gulf states, hence needing to order it. I plan to walk in with the information I've collected, tactfully confront them with their shady negotiations in the past, tell them exactly what I'm willing to pay and threaten to walk if I don't get it, with a phone call to corporate to boot. Since the truck I'm after is harder to find by just walking and going to another dealer (which isn't readily available), I'm trying to salvage a little of the time I have invested in this. Granted, it was just an hour one afternoon a few weeks back and a refundable $500, but I want to win damn it.

My BIGGEST question is the student discount - every dealer in the past has told me they eat that but I suspect that's bullshit - it's a corporate program, I bet they at least get reimbursed somehow so why shouldn't I get it on top of whatever I negotiate?

I'm certainly not paying their bullshit price - I know they paid $36,450 for it (incl dock fee) and I won't pay more than $37,000 - and I have offers from dealers in the next state over through AMEX auto for $37,000 to back it up. And I want the $750 off the $37,000 because they'll get it back from corporate anyway if I'm right.

And If you're wondering, they had me quoted at $37,900 after the $750 student discount. (TRD OR DCLB w/Tech+JLB & Towing)

 

Salesmanship starts the minute the customer says "No".

The truth is, you really don't know what their actual invoice is. Only a small handfull of people in the dealership know their true cost.
A salesman telling a potential buyer their actual invoice is BSing them.

 

- Are you fucking kidding me?

- The price sheet for the 2016 Tacoma has been available on forums since before they hit the dealers and has been continuously verified/updated.

Something tells me you're a salesman or at least highly sympathetic to salesman.

 

No

No X2

My family owns a dealership (General Motors). I'm fully aware of the way of life there.

 

That price isn't too terrible, but they can do better. Just keep at it.

I wouldn't worry about calling corporate or accusing them of shady dealings, just go forward with the price you want to pay and tell them to make it happen or you walk.

 

I would get my deposit back and find a different dealership, even if you have to drive a fair distance. The added A.M.V. that some dealerships add on is absolutely ridiculous, (very common practice in W.V.) Your buying a Toyota Tacoma not a damned Lamborghini. Don't get me wrong there are some fair dealers out there, but most are lowlife, habitual liars that will squeeze every penny they can out of you. Be very careful when signing the contract, they like to add things not discussed during pricing/payment negotiations. I'm not saying your not able to negotiate a fair deal on your own, but you should take someone with you that can help you to be strong and say no to the high pressure salesman. Good luck

 

My advice is to set your goal on price type it up and take it with you. When they go after you again hand them your terms and tell them to meet it or you will walk.

RJM

 

How to buy a truck in 5 easy steps.

1. Figure out what you want. Then figure out how they typically come equipped and what you can actually get.

2. Figure out what you can afford/what you can pay. Get pre approved at an independent bank or credit union.

3. With the above information contact, via phone, then email, at least three and preferably five dealers. Deal with one salesperson from each dealership and only talk to that salesperson. Tell them what you want and ask for their best price. Tell them the number and names of the other dealerships you are working with. Do NOT negotiate in person. ONLY negotiate the final price "Out the door" to avoid any hidden fees or surprises. Reveal you are a recent grad AFTER you are done negotiating.

4. Play each dealer against the others until you receive the best offer. Make sure you hear each dealer say at least twice that they have given you their best price on their lowest offer.

5. Be patient, calm and unemotional. You owe them nothing. You are spending $35,000 plus, make them EARN your business.

Is this going to be a pain in the ass? Yes, but treat it like a part time job. The more you put into it the more you will save.

This is the short version. If you have questions please ask.

 

I think just by asking for the deposit back will help reopen the negotiating process.

 

Garbage dealer.

 

why does it take 18 weeks to get a new vehicle?

 

X2

 

Because Tacoma's are not "made to order" like some other manufacturers.

So, if you are looking for a low production model, a dealer has to find one in the system...or future system.

 

Sound advice.

 

Deposit is refundable. Back out. Back away. Never look back. Why are you even contemplating this?