What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

For me it was much easier using a long pull bar.
I used an impact at first until it would not turn anymore. So I tried a pull bar and it came right out with very little effort.
Used a pull bar pressing them back in also.

 

Yea I found that the impact isn't as strong as I used to think it was after I did the U-Bolts, they wouldn't budge with the impact but an iron pipe on a breaker bar broke the bolts nicely. but it seemed to have worked fine this time, I may end up having to use the pipe to push the new things in though, I have them in the freezer now because apparently that helps, we will see, working on the other side now

 

@McMash
What mesh is that? It looks like it lets plenty of light through. Makes a good rock guard for the grill lights.

 

Get you some sand paper and sand all the rust out and they will go in easy, didn't even use a pipe just the breaker bar.

 

Wouldn't get it aligned if your going to lower it. You'd need another alignment.

 

How bad?

 

Yeah..... I know.... Put shocks on truck, level the truck out, than alignment. Sorry guess I shoulda specified.

 

@alphabravo
It's the MX grill by GrillCraft, with the black finish. Was going to do the Satoshi mod but that wasn't going to leave me any room for the rather large 580's. Very sturdy, well built and has kept the Piaa's from meeting any flying rocks. Doesn't impact light output either, so that's a plus. Black coating has stood up great. Been on the truck for 5 years and it still looks awesome (at least, after I wash it).

Here's a link to it on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/GrillCraft-TO...=1460776364&sr=8-9&keywords=grillcraft+tacoma

 

Wow. Decent price too compared to the $350-$550 I've seen.

 

That's for a pair of switches in the OEM clock opening. @paranoid56 just got a new shipment in.

 

Got a camper shell today! $50! Everything works but back glass shocks. Couldn't turn it down. But I need some advice on making it the most cost effective cosmetically appealing by lifting it about 1 3/4 off the bed to make it level with cab. It has some cut pieces of 2x4 under it to get a look of how I want it.

 

Changed the oil. Ran Mobil1 extended performance for 13k miles. It's advertised good for 15k miles, but I just took a job with an hour commute each way, so I figured I should just got it out of the way now. Gunna run mobil super synthetic for the next 7k miles because it was on sale.

 

Changed out my plug wires for a set of 8mm Magnecors. The NAPA wires that the truck came with looked a bit off material wise. It's like they turning into jelly. I'm not sure why because I have no leaks.

 

the bed rails are about 1.5 inches wide and a 2x4 is very close to 1.65 inches... 1.5 inch square stock steel? can you cut and weld?
the foam seal over and below it will make the last 1/4 inch. I have steel rail caps on mine and you cant even see the extra 1/8" height with the cap on.

 

just received my tundra brake calipers for the swap! ...the rotors and pads should arrive either monday or tues.

 

All the wires and coils I've found seem a bit lame. Especially compared to the ignition kits that Jacobs and MSA used to advertise back in the day. The little spring that sits between the coils and the plugs hardly makes any contact at all.

 

Not expecting any horsepower bump, but I've always found Magnecors wires to be pretty high quality. The only other option was buying a set of Genuine Toyota ones or NGK. The aftermarket OE parts market is in a race to the bottom esp when dealing with chain auto part stores house brand crapperware.

 

Just got the other sides ball joint out everything is cleaned up and ready to put my coils and uca's on. Forgot to clean the powder coat out of the arms for the zerk fittings before I put the bushings in so that was a pretty frustrating thing to try and do but got them all done too, should be putting everything together tonight, i dont know if I'll finish it though. We will have to see

 

Finally finished up the dual battery install this week. Using two Northstar 24F AGMs, one in the stock location and one in the bed. They are connected with 1/0 gauge wire running through a BlueSea ML-ACR. Voltage is monitored with a Peak DBI dual voltage monitor mounted in the cab.




This is today's project:

 

Roger that....thank you sir

Damn...cant find the spec sheet now