What you need to know about lifting a 2016 Tacoma - Presented by Toytec Lifts

Thank you!

 

They might, just call and ask. I would trust their own word over forum heresy.

 

Question, I'm considering getting a lift and new tires from the dealer to maintain my warranty. Talking to them on the phone they said it's a 3-1 lift, 3" in front and 1" in the back. With a lift I will probably go with 285-70-17 and shouldn't have any rubbing from what I gather reading. I don't recall the brand of lift, but again want keep the warranty in good standing. The lift installed is ~850. Does anyone see anything wrong with this setup or suggestions? Thanks

 

If it's from a dealer and at that price, it's a spacer lift.. Not the best option, but if you dont care about ride quality or durability and are primarily after the lifted look, it'll work just fine.

 

Is a spacer lift with shocks? This is definitely a shock lift. I'll double verify tomorrow.

 

There's a possibility that it could be a pro comp lift... But given the price, it would lead me to believe it's a space in the front and block in the back..

 

Thanks for looking out. I made it clear what I wanted. I'll let you know what they say. Have my appt for Monday, just need to figure out what tire size next. I like the nitto terra grappler 2.

 

265-70-17 Terra Grappler

 

That looks very close to rubbing something. Is this with a lift? I read through hundreds of and everyone said no lift 265 70 17 don't rub. With a lift 285 should be ok. Can you post some full truck pics? [This pic still makes me nervous even with a lift if I'm going to the 275\70\17, but I know others running even 285's, and they are not having a problem with the same lift.]

 

No lift, bone stock except the wheels, i put the 17" Pro 4r rims. Iam still waiting for the Fox ultimate kit from toytech. Just me but the Tacoma will look funny if the tires and rims are too big. The tacoma isnt a big truck, next to my 4r pro with a 3" lift it looks small

 

JerryTaco, I talked to a different parts guy(first one wasn't available) and he mentioned Pro Comp, but did say he only of them doing the spacer lift... So now I'm not sure what to do. I'm doing this more for appearance really, won't be off the road. So would the SPACER lift be OK? Thanks

 

Okay, thought so... SO, yes, a spacer lift will give you the height you want, but can also cause a harsh/rough ride, and with the blocks in the rear, cause excessive axle wrap, thus causing some driveline vibration. Personally, I think it's worth the extra money to invest in some 5100's and an add a leaf to get the lift you want. Both from a durability and ride quality standpoint, you will be much better off in the long run. In terms of getting what you pay for, spacer lifts are about as cheap as they get, so just make sure that your expectations are in line..

 

Nice collection of rides you have!! As your name implies, is there also a GT3 in your stable?

 

any tw member discounts on toytec coils?

 

Pm sent @808veedub

 

Quick question for those that have installed there lifts. This is the first ifs truck I'm not ditching the IFS and actually my first tacoma so it will be my first time wrenching on the IFS. After owning my truck for 2 months and much deliberation between the king and Icon setup I just ordered the extended travel icon setup with icon UCAS because the pricing was too good to pass up. Anyway I'm a little unclear on the UCA installation. I watched the total chaos tech do the install on youtube which I'm assuming is identical to Icon. My question is it necessary to buy new UCA bolts from the dealer or can I just temporarily bend the inner fender well to remove the UCA bolts? Only ask because I've read that allot of you are cutting and replacing the bolts backwards. It looks like there is a transmission cooler line that runs close on the pass side but thinking I can move it out of the way just enough for clearance. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. If necessary I'd like to order those bolts before the rest of the parts come in. Thanks!

To be clear the video I'm refering to was on a second Gen.

 

^ I purchased 2 new UCA bolts just in case. Figured it was cheap insurance if I had everything apart and needed to replace them.
Drivers side: I was able to pry the metal fenderwell back with a pair of pliers and remove a 10MM bolt(holding the brake lines) and slide the old UCA bolt out and new one right in.
Passengers side: Different story. In order to slide the bolt out, the inner fenderwell metal had to be bent back A LOT more then driver's side. Add the fact there was a bunch of lines that I didn't want to mess with. Took a sawz-all and cut it right at the bolt head. Slid it out the back, and inserted the new one in backwards. I was trying to bend as least as possible but in the end, cutting it was WAY easier.

 

You can bend back the metal and re-use them on a 2nd gen. Now it could be assumed the same for a 3rd gen... however with a different engine compartment I am not sure what might be in the way. Could be more, the same, or less.

 

Ordered my UCA bolts and if they arrive today or tomorrow, will be cutting the old ones out for ease of use. Nothing a sawzall or cutoff wheel cant solve