I Get To Dive Into This Friday!

Just received my Icon Stage 3 kit today for my '13 DCSB.

I've been scouring the forum looking for all the tips and tricks for the install. Seems fairly straight forward. The only part I'm slightly concerned about are the UCA bolts. I'm planning on using my Vise-Grip sheet metal tool to bend back the inner fender portion. Hopefully that'll help.

Does anybody who's done this before have other tips that they didn't see or find on the forum? Anything I need to lookout for or have handy before I dive in?

Thanks,
Romer

 

Good luck.

 

Are you leaving the overload in or out?

 

The UCAs require just a little bit of bending of the fender metal to get the long UCA bolt in/out but it's not bad at all. You'll figure it out as you go. Get a friend on a step stool to help from the top through the engine bay and it will go smooth.

 

Ive been looking in to Icon stage 3 fro the future. let me know how the install goes and how the ride and performance of icon is!

 

Yep, have some help available for this and for getting the leaf springs into position. If I might make a suggestion, return the AAL and get a set of aftermarket leafs. Or you'll be doing the rear again in a year.

 

He makes a good point here. Go with Dakars or any other preferred leaf pack that will be much better in the long run.

 

I'm going to take it out because I already have airbags installed. Are there any benefits to keeping the overload in besides the 1/2 inch lift?

 

I just installed the stage 4 kit on my 13 dcsb last weekend. Everything went fairly smooth. I would suggest picking up a tie rod puller before you dive in to make it easier. If you are keeping your aal I would suggest some decent sized c-clamps and squeeze clamps. Good luck man!

 

Have an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel available for the leaf spring pins and in the event your stock u-bolts won't come off. Saves a ton of time.

 

Wisdom right here. If those Ubolts are seized, cutting them IS the fast way to get them off since you bought new ones.

 

If you dont want what did this setup run ya

 

Rather than prying down on the lower arms, suggest that you mark the alignment cam positions with a paint pen then loosen the bolts. Makes getting the new coilovers in really easy and then you can put the cams back to their original positions when you reassemble. Also, print out all of the relevant torque spec pages (from the TW sticky thread) and have them handy.

 

I got the kit, coilover covers, spanner wrench, and uniball caps for $2,628 with free shipping from Performance Truck Products.

 

Will do.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/

 

So I got the AAL in and the new rear shocks and the e-brake lines look really tight from the bracket on the leaf that holds the them. Is there something I skipped? I took it on a test drive and I still have good pressure and they didn't seem to have any pull marks on them from turns.

Oh, and now I can definitely tell how crappy the rear setup was and the front shocks still are after my midnight test drive. I'm gonna have fun bombing down forest and fire roads this weekend during my backpacking trip.

 

As far as the rear brake lines go, if you don't want to do extended lines, you could put the TRD spacer in there. Works fine with standard travel Icon 2". Part number from Toyota is PTR1335120AD for the little bag of hardware that includes the spacer.

 

OP, don't forget to have beer nearby.

 

Do use the TCA video as a guide but I'm not too keen on how they hang the spindle or protect the ABS wires in that video.

An air ratchet and impact wrench will speed things up A LOT.

Getting the LCA pried down enough to put the new shock in will not be as easy as it looks in the YouTube video.

Also an 6" x 3/8" socket extension comes in handy to drive the UCA bolt out enough to get a grip on it and finish the extraction. There's a wiring harness on the driver's side that may get in the way - not sure if they mention that in the video. It's sort of a pain to get to.

And +1 on the full leaf pack.

And +1 on the beer AFTER you torque everything down.