Drive Shafts: Two Types of Grease?

I bought some Mobile 1 synthetic black grease and squirted into all five U joints on my 2013 DCLB. I went to check off the item in the maintenance guide, and noticed the front drive shaft takes a different type of grease than the rear. I don't recall that being mentioned on the drive shaft greasing guides I've read here. Is anyone using two different greases on their 4x4 propellor shafts?

 

Not me, I use the Mobile One Synthetic grease (it's red) on all five fittings.

 

From the 2014 Owners Manual:

Chassis lubrication (4WD models and PreRunner with 2.7L 4-cylinder [2TR-FE] engine only) Propeller shafts Spider Lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2

 

i end up using red and tacky number 2 for everything.... as long as its clean grease (i do mine every oil change at 5k miles) the u joints will be happy.

 

I just use one type for all 5.
Lucas - Red N' Tacky #2

As long as your greasing them your doing better than most people.

I'll admit. I grease mine about once a year.
Which isn't enough, but at least I do it.

 

I use amsoil blue waterproof synthetic. It exceeds all ratings. I started it in the wheel bearings on the boat trailers and it now goes in everything. Haven't lost a bearing since I switched. It is way cheaper than ujoints and mower parts. Performs well in the sled's undercarriage as well. I'm thinking about swapping out my toothpaste. It literally is worth every nickle

 

I've read from others that any quality NLGI #2 is ok for all u-joints.

 

pretty much any lithium NLGI 2 grease works fine

NLGI 2 is about consistency = peanut butter

lithium is a soap (grease itself is actually a oil/soap mix)
and dictates how stable the oil (the lubricating part of the grease) stays in the goop part (the soap)


MOLY grease has additional Molybdenum disulfide
think of this exactly like graphite and how graphite lubes. moly particles fill in
pits and makes a smoother surface for everything to slide upon

on toyota drivehafts some specify one grease, or two greases for specific parts

one rule for sure is you use moly in any slip joint.
the moly is absolutely required in a slip joint
as that moly is filling in the pits and sliding off allowing the slip yoke to pump a million times
back and forth by 1mm to a few inches every time you drive

-----------------------------------------------------
moly is also specified in double cardan joints in the center zerk

it is not specified in ujoints

no one has a clear answer why moly is specified in double-cardan but it is...aren't DC joints essentially two ujoints in one T housing ?,

anyhow no one over 20 years who has been pumping moly
into ujoints has ever had a problem either. so if all you got is one grease and a greaseable slip yoke, buy moly

no greaseable slip ? just buy lithium

basically if you grease the zerks every 5000 you probably could use real peanut butter... the point
is keep fresh grease in there it'll last forever

 

^^^^ x2...What he said

 

I want to add


I am a big fan of Mobil 1 oil and will use it on all my rigs forever till I croak or Mobil 1 stops
being sold.


But I am NO fan of their red grease. I think it is shit. the reason is, I have seen this in 2 auto parts places, a big box of Mobil 1
grease and all the tubes were leaking a smear of red oil out the side. I don't care who you are or what you do, but a proper
grease does not allow the soap to let go of the oil. If the oil is dribbling out of the grease -on the shelf- I cannot imagine
it does the correct job in the ujoints. maybe it does maybe it don't, but I just grab a tube of valvoline lithium 2 and use that every
time my MAINT light pops off

I am pretty sure sitting here....Mobil synth grease is perfectly fine, but my brain overrides any documentation when I am
physically staring at a box of it and oil is dripping from each tube.

plus, I don't want the hassle of a leaky gun sitting around that needs it's own diaper.

https://mobiloil.com/en/synthetic-grease/mobil-1-synthetic-grease


edit: see some reviews, others note Mobil 1 drips like a sad beet

$14 Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, Auto, 12.5 oz.

http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-1-Grease-Automotive/dp/B000LDJ3XQ

 

I use this for everything too. no issues

 

Sorry for reviving an old thread. You can really read yourself silly on this one.

Does anybody know where Toyota has specified moly grease for the double cardan joints?
I have read this many times, but my manual doesn't mention this.

 

look in the 1999 4runner Limited AWD service and maintenance specifications
https://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/omms-s/99ALLMS_MS0001/pdf/1999 Toyota SMG.pdf

that sucker has a double cardan and two types of grease specified


Propeller Shaft Lubricate the propeller shaft spiders and slide yokes with lithium- base chassis grease and the double cardan joint with molybdenum- disulfide lithium- base chassis grease, and retorque the flange bolts. Only a qualified technician should re- torque the flange bolts

 

New guy here with an 09 access cab 2 wheel drive. Do these models also have zirk fittings on the driveshaft u joints? Just bought the truck and I have no.idea if its ever been lubricated
Thanks Jan

 

I use this stuff on my SPC UCA ball joints. Wondering if it would be fine along my driveline too. Been using Red N’ Tacky NLG #2. Trying to save myself from swapping the gun out every oil change

 

I had a similar experience with Valvoline red. That crap separated constantly and left big red stains on every shirt I wore while using it. My grease gun always had a red puddle under it so I finally tossed it and switched back to Lucas. I have a tube of the Lucas Green that I'm using next.
Somewhere along the way, I put in a tube of Fuchs that's kind of light tan in color. It is nice and stringy and really stays put. I reckon when it's empty is when I'll switch to the green. Of course, a tube of that will last me another couple of years.

 

I use the Green in all my mowers.
It doesn’t seem to separate too bad. It will if you leave it under pressure and in the back of the truck bed on a 95 degree days all summer. But it’s very minimal. It seems to be good stuff.

I usually just relieve pressure off the tube after greasing. The reason I tried green was because of separation with red. Red definitely separates more. But it’s been really good for me for 10+ years. So I stick with what has been working.

I have 2 grease guns. One for the truck. And one for everything else.

 

Good tip on relieving pressure, I’ve never thought about it. My grease gun lives in a 5 gal bucket to contain the separation. Had similar experiences with the valvoline synthetic red separating and filling the bottom of the bucket with liquid. Bought Lucas red and tacky last fall and haven’t had the same issue but garage temps aren’t up yet. I’ll try relieving the pressure and see if the Lucas separates once the garage temps start climbing this summer.

 

Off topic, but for the mowers... we have two 42" riders for which I have taken over the maintenance. Lots of fun with those, to include replacing a camshaft in the Craftsman mower Briggs Intek engine due to busted compression release mechanism. Chunks of metal in the crankcase but no problem. Those are some tough engines.

But greasing... where do you grease? All I see on ours are a couple of zerks on the front steering linkages. Anything else that needs greasing?

 

Ty ahead of time,I have to raise my rear wheels to get rear shaft to spin ,am I doing something wrong.2.7 4x4 2016 ,brake off ,neutral etc ….ty