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Better clutch for 2TR

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by allmotorrex, Mar 8, 2011.

  1. Nov 17, 2015 at 6:31 AM
    #161
    single cab

    single cab Well-Known Member

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    Just a update on mine 9 months old 17k and still have a annoying rattle at around 1800 to 2300 rpms and I beleive my throw out bearing is bad loud chirping in neutral and goes away with the clutch pressed in as well as the same in gear. I called lce and instead of standing behind thier product they charged me and shipped a new throw out bearing that is completely different from the plastic one the kit came with this one being a koyo brand. Also took it to a local aamco to have the rattle and throw out looked at and said the tranny had to be rebuilt. it's at the dealer currently getting diagnosed as if it were the tranny it will be covered under warranty. Anyone else have similar issues?
     
  2. Nov 18, 2015 at 12:52 PM
    #162
    cosmicfires

    cosmicfires Well-Known Member

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    Your throw out bearing should not be touching the clutch fingers when the clutch is not pressed it, so unless it's out of adjustment it won't make noise. If there's a noise in when the transmission is in neutral or in gear it's something other than the throw out bearing. If the noise goes away when the clutch is depressed it's in the transmission.
     
  3. Nov 18, 2015 at 12:52 PM
    #163
    cosmicfires

    cosmicfires Well-Known Member

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    oops duplicate post due to slow net
     
  4. Nov 18, 2015 at 2:11 PM
    #164
    single cab

    single cab Well-Known Member

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    the squeaky noise is the only noise that I hear in gear driving with my foot off the clutch and in neutral with my foot off the clutch which quiets when I press in the clutch leading me to believe its the throwout. the other noise is the rattle I cant diagnose.
     
  5. Nov 18, 2015 at 2:25 PM
    #165
    cosmicfires

    cosmicfires Well-Known Member

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    The throwout bearing is not turning when the clutch is not depressed if the clutch is adjusted correctly. I'd check the clutch adjustment first. A quick check is to depress the clutch pedal with your hand, you should feel it move about 1/8" before you feel resistance of operating the clutch. The brake pedal should be the same, the operating rod should not be pushed against the master cylinder piston when the pedals are in the up position. Hopefully my explanation is useful, I'm sure someone else can explain this better.
     
  6. Nov 18, 2015 at 2:32 PM
    #166
    single cab

    single cab Well-Known Member

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    th_20151118_164459_8239270317a6ade2e01904f6cd90417a945ac7eb.jpg
    th_20151118_164237_a0cd8dc6e4194cc84c411adb04fcb72825ebb8dc.jpg
    this is the mystery rattle
     
  7. Dec 10, 2015 at 9:50 AM
    #167
    camojared

    camojared Well-Known Member

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    Just wondering if you had any videos of your dual comp clutch chatter... Im looking at that clutch because I dont want to exceed the rating on the pro but Im not sure Ill want the chatter. Im on 32s with stock gears but Ive also got the urd stage 2 supercharger... any advice?
     
  8. Dec 10, 2015 at 2:06 PM
    #168
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex [OP] Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    No I have no videos of this. Let me clear that statement you quoted up a bit. The clutch chatters, yes, but only when trying to ride it. So for anyone that's very familiar with a stick shift, you know that you don't take off the same every time. Sometimes you rev it and hold that rpm while riding the clutch then letting off all the way once the speed catches up to the rpms. Sometimes you blip the throttle a few times as you consistently let out on the clutch until you are rolling. Sometimes you rev it "too high" and ride the clutch then let off completely cause you are rolling already. Sometimes you basically dump the clutch and drive out of it. Etc, etc, etc ............

    It's the riding the clutch moments that this clutch does not like. Imagine sitting in your truck at a complete stop. You slowly let out on the clutch until you find the engage point and barely start to roll. At this point you can just start to hear the scraping sound of the dish engaging. If you let out a lil more, you slowly start to engage it more and start to roll faster until you are fully off the clutch and driving. This clutch hits that point of engagement where you hear the disk scrape and if you let out just a hair more it begins to chatter. Times that it sucks for me are any kind of very slow stop/start traffic and very slow precision off-road climbing spots. I pretty much can't do the second thing because of the clutch engagement and the lack of a low low gear such from a crawl box.

    I have to rock crawl completely different from the auto guys because of this. A clutch that slips is actually beneficial in this instance. Problem is I burned a clutch up in a weekend doing so. Haha but if you want a recommendation for a clutch that's "not hard" to drive on the street and is very hard to slip (I've burned it a few times since writing my previous statements) then yes I recommend this clutch. Its fantastic.

    And to show you a few instances where being able to slip a clutch would come in handy ..... These are from a few weeks ago

    https://youtu.be/Zmo6uWCFhoc

    https://youtu.be/nsH2S5H4LTo

    That second video, I found out my exhaust was crushed from the first video so my truck kept wanting to die but being on an incline and rocks, slipping the clutch to get going would've helped out
     
  9. Dec 11, 2015 at 6:20 AM
    #169
    camojared

    camojared Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for clearing that up! Looks like a dual comp for mine once some snow wheeling kills my stocker this winter.
     
  10. Apr 29, 2016 at 11:59 PM
    #170
    JoBroTACO

    JoBroTACO Jobrotaco IG

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    I will replacing my stock clutch with a LCE stage II. I shredded it real good tonight offroading after 35K. Really sad:anonymous:
     
  11. Apr 30, 2016 at 12:00 AM
    #171
    JoBroTACO

    JoBroTACO Jobrotaco IG

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    I will using ur right up as a reference
     
  12. May 15, 2016 at 7:00 PM
    #172
    texascolt45

    texascolt45 Well-Known Member

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    groves texas
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    wheels,bilsteins,side bars
    gonna replace the clutch and resurface the flywheel in my 09 prerunner.anybody change the rear main seal while your in there?175,000 miles.
     
  13. May 15, 2016 at 7:19 PM
    #173
    JoBroTACO

    JoBroTACO Jobrotaco IG

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    I only had 30k on mine so my friends who put it in left that Chet alone it was still good.
     
  14. Sep 23, 2016 at 12:55 PM
    #174
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    Great write up! I'm going to be replacing the clutch on my turbo 3rz here soon once I find a free weekend. This write will be a great reference. Thanks for taking the time to do this! :cheers:
     
  15. Sep 23, 2016 at 1:28 PM
    #175
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex [OP] Grove St. Fab

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    Gideon
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    08 SR5 4wd 2.7
    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    Glad I could help :thumbsup:
     
  16. Mar 27, 2017 at 5:52 PM
    #176
    presta24

    presta24 Well-Known Member

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    Scratches, dents, lots of squeaks.
    nice clutch write up man
     
  17. Mar 27, 2017 at 6:26 PM
    #177
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex [OP] Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    Thank you sir. Hopefully you can benefit from it soon ....
     
  18. Mar 27, 2017 at 6:29 PM
    #178
    presta24

    presta24 Well-Known Member

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    Scratches, dents, lots of squeaks.
    she still shiftin good, dont want to replace it until its toast
     
  19. Mar 27, 2017 at 6:32 PM
    #179
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex [OP] Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    Bigger tires and rock crawling can help that real fast. Haha
     
    Yotabilly likes this.
  20. Mar 27, 2017 at 6:35 PM
    #180
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    This write up was awesome! I used it to do my clutch over thanksgiving on my 3rz and it made it much easier. Especially the pilot bearing removal with the paper towels. Thanks again!
     

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