Can I use "incorrect" oil filters?

Any time.
After some digging most oil filters for the Tacoma both the 2TR-FE and 1GR-FE are 40 micron absolute pretty surprised that several filters don't even meet that requirement. Wix XP filters don't meet the requirements and are closer to 50 to 60 micron. Fram filters and all of those similar are not even close either.

 

I am using the Fram XG8A filter on my 2016. It has 3.5 times the filter media, is high efficiency, and is rated for 15,000 miles. It is longer and fatter but fits perfectly. 3.5 x 15,000 = more than 50,000 miles of filtration. Am I going to leave it on for 50,000 miles? No, but I will not worry about it when I go to extended drain intervals. And best of all, it is exactly the same price as the little dinky stock size. I always hear about people changing filters halfway through their oil changes. Not with this one.

 

Only way to do that is send the oil to a lab. My guess is the oil will develop too much acidity (TAN) before 20,000 miles or the wear metals will be too high. The filter will most likely not filter and enter into bypass which happens around 7 PSID.
I do not have any faith in Fram filters too many engine rebuilds because they had failed. Sadly WIX also is earning a similar reputation. I usually cross filter numbers to Baldwin, Fleetguard or Donaldson. All are great filter companies.

 

15,000 miles or one year would be the ultimate goal. There are oils that can do this. This would be verified by UOA.
The Fram Ultra filters are highly regarded. The Fram "orange can of death"... not so much.

 

This I what I been using. Can't really tell from the photo but it's about twice as big as the taller oem filter.

 

I've never used one, but they look like a quality filter and Bosch usually makes good products.

 

Bosch places their name on many products. Haven't looked into that filter.

 

Could be okay for 15k miles but I would have more faith in my Baldwin or even a Donaldson. I will cross that number in Donaldson's Web page and see what comes out of it. If the micron rating is lower than 40 absolute might be worth it.

 

97 to 98% at 20 microns. 32 grams holding capacity in the XG8A size. Two stage filtration with screen backing.

 

WIX XP filters are synthetic and mesh backed. The mesh is reinforcement.
I know what killed engines in the past was the sealer on the end caps and the top of the canister. It would soften up and fall off clogging oil passages.

 

I used Mobil 1 oil and filters on all my cars and change both every 5k, for $35 I'm not going much over that. I'm a ase certified tech and have seen too many engines go b cause of lack of a simple cheap maintenance

 

Oil is cheap and so are filters. Going budget quality to save a buck kills engines. Mobil 1 filters, K&N oil filters, STP and several others are all Champion Labs filters. No different just added cost for a name. I buy from reputable filter manufacturers such as Baldwin, Donaldson and Fleetguard and fill up my 2TR-FE with Mobil synthetic. I spend a few bucks more but I have a reputable company to back their product.

 

My fuel mileage went up with Mobil 1 too, so it's probably not even $35 every 5 k miles. Definitely worth spending a few extra dollars

 

How are the wix filters? They seemed really nice. I use them.

 

$53 Toyota Genuine Parts 90915-YZZD3 Oil Filter 1 Case (QTY 10)

http://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Genuin...&ie=UTF8&qid=1462111537&sr=1-2&keywords=yzzd3

 

I agree. It doesn't seem like a great idea using a $10 part that could destroy your engine if it does not work properly.

 

Local dealer sells me OE filters for under $4. Think I paid $3.25 each when I bought two last time. List is only $5.75 so even if you have to pay that the price is still fantastic compared to 3rd party filters. Why not just stick with OEM?

 

The regular WIX filters are very good, or at least they have been in the past... not sure about the bad reputation post made earlier in this thread. Apparently the WIX XP filters are achieving their extended performance by increasing the micron size rating (aka not filtering as well).

Ya I know. I never intended this thread to go down this path, but obviously people like talking about oil filters in general. At least it gives you another opportunity to post that meme.

 

Not to speak bad of Toyota but there really is a difference in 3 types of Toyota filters. The USA built TRD filters are totally different from the Japanese versions and then there is the Toyota Thailand filters which is substandard. Too many inconsistencies within Toyota parts.
Fram oil filters/Champion Labs nearly all of them share the 20 micron claim which bugs me but is entirely possible. Only thing is the K&N (also Champion Labs) is beyond substandard. Seen many photos of torn media and a private test showed filtration is closer to 50 microns absolute. Typical Toyota filters are 40 micron absolute. Purolator is 20 micron absolute for the majority of their filters and the Motorcraft filters share the media. Motorcraft filters are a bit odd as they state minimum requirements not the actual spec. Private testing has shown the Motorcraft to be 94% or better at trapping contaminants above 20 microns. WIX can't even match that at 40 microns.

To add to my list of quality filters I will add Purolator and Motorcraft both are made by Purolator but the Motorcraft has the thread mounted bypass valve. The Motorcraft filters are cheap and abundant. Standard size is

$9 FL910s Motorcraft - Oil Filter (FL910S)

FL910s and oversize is FL400s.
The bypass pressure is higher on the FL400s as well but nothing to be concerned with as idle oil pressure is higher than the 20 PSI bypass.

Whatever you use keep away from the orange cans of death aka basic Fram.