Brett's average build thread

also, I had to re-calibrate the UG after each speedo gear change. I don't know if Torque has the same requirements.

 

I don't know if it's the same for the first gens but I'm reasonably certain that torque uses GPS for the speed in the second gen.
If it jumps around at all (skips numbers) then I'd bet it's going off GPS rather than some signal the truck is giving it through the obdII.

A sure way to tell would be to turn the GPS off on your phone.

 

It does. I reset it to the default for the time being.

You can set it so that it uses both. I usually have the OBD reading in a large display and the GPS in a tiny display in the corner.

 

So I drove about 80 miles today to Slaughterhouse and both times I forgot to compare the trip from the dash and Torque I did notice the dash had very slowly gained about at most 2 10ths of a mile on the GPS calculated Torque app a few miles from my destination. So for S's and G's lets just say the dash said 80.1 and Torque said 80. 80/80.2=.998 so it's damn close to being spot on. Now my speed was reading was 60 from the gps, 62 from the OBD/Torque and 65 on the dash. I figured since the odometer was almost spot on the speedometer would be closer. Also I'm guessing the OBD is the speed the truck actually thinks it's going and there is a slight error in what the cluster actually puts out. Anyone else have a difference between the two?

 

Sounds like you need the 33 tooth.

 

Time to resurrect this thread.
Remove the drivers front tire and if you still have the spare in the stock location, remove that too.
Front Range Off Road Rear brake proportioning valve install and LSVP delete.
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/proportioning-valve-kit/
The complete kit, valve and adapters.


BEFORE YOU START< TAKE NOTE OF THE ADAPTERS< EACH TUBE ADAPTER HAS AN SAE THREAD AND A METRIC THREAD>
The right is metric. The left is SAE. The SAE ends go into the brass fittings supplied with the valve. The Union that comes with the kit is metric.
I bring this up because the threads are dangerously close to each other and will thread into each other, but most likely leak and may cause a bad day.

You will also need a set of metric and SAE line wrenches. Don't attempt with open end wrenches, it will deform the fitting.



This is where I want it to sit. I want to keep it clean and be able to easily access it if needed. It can be mounted off the rear frame rail if desired.


A mild 45° angle in the adapter.


Aims it right at the clutch reservoir.


another 45° bend on the other end will clear the reservoir and gives you about 3-4 inches before it hits the firewall.

 

I removed the brake light indicator plug and a couple vacuum lines to make it easier..
We are working with the rear brake line on the master cylinder. Trace the thing before you start to make sure it's the one you want.

Rear line removed from MC and assembly loosely installed to check for fit.
The rear line I removed needed to be stretched, there is a coil midway that is useful for this. It then simply lays under the booster, I didn't need to make any bends in it, the factory bend worked beautifully to mate up to the union. Make sure the hard line is not resting/rubbing against anything to avoid leaks from abrasion.


Overexposed cause AZIZ, LIGHT!



I tighten the line in this order. Start by full threading the brass fittings into the valve and get then tight.

Next tighten the factory hard line to the supplied union.
Then the union to the adapter on the OUT side of the valve.
Then to the valve itself, and continue tightening the joints until you reach the MC. This allowed me to keep the valve where I wanted it and avoided kinking the lines.

The coil in the back is the one we are working with and is where I gained some stretch.

 

Next move down to the frame.
The "T" adapter is what we are working with here. You are making some changes to the front brakes as well, mainly losing the bypass feature.
Remove the top line where my finger is and remove the short bent up line that connects to the wheel soft line.


Then go back up top and stretch the forward coiled line, down, to get some needed line.


Bendy short line removed and the disconnected hard line from the MC now has a nice bend in it to line up with the soft line. Should be a total mess at this point.


Connected.


Should look like this when you are done. The "T" fitting is now unused and if it wasn't braised on I would remove it.
The fitting on the Right will be left alone, this is your line to the rear.


Save this, might come in handy someday.

 

Next we move to the rear frame rail where the pesky LSVP is located.
I was wondering which line it might be, directions said usually it's the top line.
Removal of the bottom line showed that it was bone dry, so must be the return line. And explains why things ain't working right.


Top line was wet, we have a winner. Use that line.


Remove all the lines, there are three. Remove the LSVP. Should look like this.


You need to put at least one bolt back to hold the soft line bracket in place.
I put them all back just because.


Next take that upper/wet line and put a nice 90° bend in it. I highly recommend a small tubing bender. Buy one before you start, it makes a huge difference and they are cheap. Bending by hand will result in a kink and a bad day.


And hook it up.


I have left the unused line in place. It could be removed with a little effort if you want. I might do it later but for now it's not bothering anything. Keep the old lines because parts is parts and these fittings are a bitch to source.

This is where I stopped. I then rinsed everything clean with water and started writing this up so it could dry. It will help when I go to bleed them so I can see the leaks if any.
Now off to bleed.

 

Nice write up. I'm currently just trying to install steel braided extended lines and the rust is making that almost impossible. Glad to see you didn't have that trouble!

 

I'm fortunate to not have rust issues just yet.

No leaks, bled just fine.
Directions say to start with the valve at full open or max braking with drum brakes and go for a test drive. I drove it around the neighborhood, pedal is more firm than it has ever been and it stopped with more grab so I think they are hooking up now.

Next is to eat lunch and find a dirt road and slam on them and adjust the knob as needed until the fronts lock first then the rears.

Install wasn't bad, took about 3 hours with pictures and the write up. Nothing was frozen on mine, so I had that going for me too.

 

So the leftover line still had some fluid in it and was dribbling down the frame. No bueno.
3 bolts, half a dozen clips, lots of sand in the eyes and some violent jerking got it removed.
Would be easier if the tank or bed was off first but it will come out.
Should help out the taco lean too, less weight on that side.

A nice length of spare brake line should it ever be needed.

 

I changed my rear brake shoes a year ago I think. Aftermarket run of the mill shoes.
I changed them again today with OEM shoes this time. I don't recommend aftermarket rear shoes. They worked fine but the longevity was a little short.

 

What do the OEM shoes cost?

I've been on Napa premium ones for a few years, and then seem to work good.

 

I can't remember, they weren't Napa though, just mid grade O'Reilly.
I was surprised that most of the wear was in the center of the shoe, like they didn't fit the drum just right.
The OEM ones I just test drove and my braking has damn near doubled now between them and the proportioning valve.

 

You absolutely saved my ass with a bpv write up. Good stuff man! My rear is grinded to the frame for LT. Much appreciated!

 

Thank you and happy it helped.

 

On a side note...
My brother and my buddy both have 2nd gens.
Last years hunting trip was a lot of deep, muddy crossings that left both of them with the rear drums packed full of mud.
I expected to find something in mine today, but alas they were fairly clean except for some brake dust. Must be a 2nd gen problem.

 

Any chance the short lifespan was related to your valve problems?

 

Maybe, I think it's indirectly related to me occasionally driving with the e-brake on.