My Audio Build

Starting my audio build (as a total newb). Going to try and do everything myself but if there's one thing i'm really bad at regarding vehicles, its electronics/wiring. So, this will hopefully be a great learning experience for me.

I'm no audiophile, but I would appreciate a decent sound system. Hopefully what i've come up with will do the trick for a reasonable amount of money.

So far I have:

- Phoenix Gold Tantrum 500.2 amp (an oldie but a goodie - bridged - powering the sub)



- Image Dynamics IDQ 10" secured in a bandpass box (an oldie but a goodie)



- AudioControl LC2i 2ch LOC/Sub control



- Image Dynamics 6.5" Component speakers/tweeters (front doors)

I'm starting to wonder if I got jipped, all the "unboxing" videos/pics i've seen include speaker cable for the pair... mine didn't!



- Door speaker adapters

Edit: Ordered the incorrect adapters for REAR speakers, ended up order the correct Scosche 6.5" speaker adapters.

- AudioPipe Power Distribution Box
- SoundBox 4gauge Wiring Kit
- Metra Radio Wiring Harness
- Image Dynamics MQ150.2 Class D amp (powering the speakers)



- AudioControl Bass knob

What do you guys think?

 

Sounds good, I would also do sound deadening. Makes a big difference. I'm working on my audio build too. My installer will be putting it in a couples of weeks. I'm having my truck sound deaden with my 10 inch sub box and amp board covered in rug. Hybrid audio speakers with 2 amps. Planning on using my factory headunit or I might get one of the new Kenwood head units that coming out soon with the GPS.

 

that's a solid start. you can't go wrong with the IDQ and i've read good things about the ID components. you also have plenty of power to get really loud. was the bandpass box custom built to the IDQ's specs? reason i ask is those types of enclosures are not very forgiving to miscalculations.

 

I doubt the bandpass box was custom built. However, I ran that sub/amp setup for many years and for a 10" it hit hard. It's been sitting in my garage for years and was the start of this whole build... figured I should use them. Any help on wiring kits for two amps??

 

gotcha. well if it treated you well then you might as well continue using it.

you can find pretty good dual amp wiring kits from stinger, rockford, and JL. knukonceptz may make some as well. all of these companies product high quality wire, so it's just a matter of finding the size, length, and fuse style you want.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Total newbie question: since I plan on running two amps can I get away with running a single power cable from the battery and splicing it to power both amps? Or, do I need to run two separate power cables based on amp specs (cable size, etc)? Also, i'll be mounting each amp under each seat... any recommended grounding spots?

 

One cable is fine as long as the size is adequate for the current and length. You'll need a distribution block at the amps to split that up unless you get 'creative'.

Here's a general guide. It wouldn't hurt to go bigger to make upgrades easy.



On grounding, the safe bet is to run a ground cable to your battery. Most won't do that though. A solid ground point on the frame/body will usually do. You can use existing boltery if surfaces are adequately prepared, but grounding on seat bolts is a somewhat controversial topic...that said I'm using one on a single 50x4 but I prepped the mating surfaces.

+1 on the deadening idea. I've only done my doors so far and won't have the MLV in 'till later in the week and it made a HUGE difference. I don't think I'd trust an installer to do this though unless I knew him well...not to mention the expense. I spent ~2.5 hours per door installing just 10 CLD tiles and butyl rope. At current rates, with parts, that would cost around $500! I spent ~$40 in parts after shipping and an afternoon of DIY...just sayin. I can make respectable amounts of bass in my doors and they don't rattle

 

A single main cable from the battery and a distribution block near the amps to split into separate power feeds. You should have the main cable fused near the battery. And I always recommend getting a fused distribution block so that each amp can be protected independently.

When selecting fuse and cable size the general approach I take is select a fuse equal to the maximum expected current draw and then choose a cable rated for greater than the fuse size. For example, if you have one amp that will pull 50A and another that will pull 30A, then choose an 80A main fuse. Your power cable should be rated to carry more than 80A. The main fuse serves two essential functions: 1) detect excessive current draw, and 2) protect your main cable.

The cable runs after the distribution block are pretty short, so the individual fuses are primarily protecting the rest of the electrical system. If your 30A is malfunctioning and for some reason drawing 60A, it will continue to dump that current while your main fuse will not blow (it's rated for 80A). Select a 30A fuse at the distribution block so that any excessive current draw will be interrupted.

 

Awesome, thanks for the suggestion on the power distribution block. I ended up ordering the AUDIOP APPB1020 1 to 2 Power Distribution Block.

Both amps have 500w RMS capabilities, which by the calculations referenced to that chart should draw 72.5amps. Since I have an access cab Tacoma, the distance is fairly short which leads me to believe I could get away with 8gauge power wires. The wiring kit I ordered is a 4gauge kit... but it's okay to go bigger correct?

 

Yeah, 4 ga is about right. I personally wouldn't go any smaller than that with the gear you intend to use. It's always OK to go bigger...just not the other way around.

 

For Bass Knobs, is it better to run one off the AudioControl LC2i LOC or straight from the amp powering the sub? Asking before I order one or the other.

Another question for the Audio guru's... is the Image Dynamics MQ150.2 overkill for the CTX65CS speakers? I only ask because I was looking at the "2016 highest rated amplifiers" and the Polk Audio D2000.2 was on the list at $100 cheaper than the ID MQ150.2. It's specs are:

• Polk Audio PA D2000.2 2-channel car amplifier
• 125w x 2 RMS
• Max power handling: 300W
• MOSFET switching power
• Efficient Class D bridgeable design
• Toroidal transformers
• Full, HPF, BPF switch
• Adjustable low and high pass frequency
• Level controls
• Line level outputs and inputs
• Nickel-plated wire terminals and RCA connectors
• Stainless steel hardware
• Protection: thermal, DC offset, reverse polarity and short circuit protection
• Dimensions (with panels): 1.81”H x 8.25”W x 6.75”D

 

You may void your warranty, but using an amp rated for more power shouldn't be a problem - particularly with that margin. You'll want to keep that in mind setting gains though. Your amp isn't making max power all the time. It's usually making some amount below the rated (err, actual which you can get from an amp dyno test) amount under normal conditions...typically a small fraction of what they can do. So you could use a grossly overpowered amp as long as you didn't ask it to make gross amounts of power. Power rating is more of an internal thermal limit, so a set wattage number is more of a suggestion. Manufacturers typically build in some headroom as well. In the case of a company like Sundown, a lot of headroom. IDK with ID, but I wouldn't sweat it.

 

Just went out and measured the height dimensions for both driver/passenger seat. The PG Tantrum 500.2 will fit under the drivers seat but not the passenger seat. SO, I need to find an amp to power the components with a height less than 1.75" which the Polk does not meet (1.81" tall). The ID MQ150.2 would fit (at 1.4" tall).

Any suggestion about the Bass Knob? Better to run straight from the LOC or from the amp itself, or doesn't matter?

 

Went ahead and ordered the ID MQ150.2. Fits the power requirements and dimensions are right for under passenger seat placement.

 

In this case, I don't think you'll notice a difference between locating the bass knob at the LOC or amp. It's hard to tell how audiocontrol and phoenix gold use the knob's signal. Some manufacturers just route the signal through the knob (usually a fairly cheap potentiometer) so you could degrade the signal. I know JL's HD-RLC knob controls a digital signal that then controls the amp gain, so the audio signal does not pass through the knob.

 

Ok cool. In this case the Phoenix Gold amp is discontinued so the Bass Knobs are harder to come by (more $$$)... i'll probably just get on for the LOC since they are more readily available.

I also ordered the Metra dash kits so I can do the wiring without cutting into the factory harness.

Edit: Ordered the AudioControl ACR-1 Bass Knob for the LOC

 

So I opened my LC2i line output converter last night and there is some serious rattling going on inside. Anyone else experience this? I'm afraid to open it up in case that voids any warranty or something.

Edit 1: AudioControl promptly responded and will have to exchange the unit for a new one.

Edit 2: The replacement AudioControl LC2i also has a rattle so i'm thinking maybe it is just how the unit is. The first one sounded like something was loose and this one just sounds like a rattle. Hmm...

 

Starting assembling the power cable. Made a small wooden mount for the inline fuse and will bolt to the two open holes on the inside drivers side of the engine bay (that others have mentioned). Made the short cable from the battery to fuse (20"). Ran the cable from the other side of the fuse through the existing grommet on the driver side and currently have the remainder of the cable coiled up behind my seat.





Cable looks purple but its actually blue. The cable was a B to run through the grommet!

 

Started assembling the dash harness to LC2i wiring. This is the Metra harness and Stinger Speedwire:



What you're seeing is the (+) and (-) connections for the front door speakers connected with butt connectors. My plan is to remove or unpin all remaining wires and replace the with the OEM harness wires once i'm ready to take the HU out. I got frustrated and quit for the night because I couldn't unpin them... any tricks?

 

if you have the liberty of time and funds, then a pin remover is what you need. something like this (not sure if this will work with your connector, but you may be able to find one sized properly for your connector):

$10 Male/Female 4 Pin Molex Power Connector Pin Remover Computer Wire Extractor Tool for Modding/Wiring/Sleeving (for .062" and 0.093" pins)

http://www.amazon.com/Connector-Remover-Computer-Extractor-Sleeving/dp/B0094MIS9U

if you don't want to bother with a specialty tool then you need something that mimics a small barrel. maybe the internals of a disassembled pen will work? or a small flat screwdriver to push in the tabs around the pin.