Checking in at 20,000 miles

It's funny reading this. When I bought my TRD Off Road I was considering putting a bigger lift, huge tires, and a whole bunch of other shit on it, but after actually using it off road several times, discovered that that stock lift was perfect, the stock wheels were strong and beefy, and bigger tires weren't necessary (though I did switch the 265 70 r16's with 265 75 r16's).

 

I get it, part of the allure of these trucks is kind of like the jeep crowd. Everyone wants to "individualize" their ride. A lot of folks do it as a hobby. That's fine not trying to hate on that. To each their own... spend your money how you want to, just don't carry unrealistic expectations about what those mods do for increasing real-world capability of your vehicle. Many of these trucks with lifts and bigger tires will never see a fraction of a percentage of the offroad use others (like mine and OPs) will. I'm interested in high-value modifications that will provide an improvement in comfort. White knuckle driving on mountain forest and unmaintained ranch roads, etc wears on you quickly.

 

I miss my '04 Outback H6. Wish I never got rid of it. The thing was built like a tank. Whoever got that lucked out. I had put King springs, new KYB shocks, all new brakes, nice aftermarket headunit, etc. into it.

 

I'm sorry but I have to correct you here. Stiff does not = bouncy. To answer your question yes, 5100's are a great improvement for the scenario you just described. The shock is working hard and fast. The more oil capacity, aka the larger bore of the shock can help keep temperatures down and keep the shock from fading. The stiffer valving of the 5100 will keep you on the road and absorb the bumps due to its higher dampening effect. 5100's are an upgrade, but it depends your preference. 99% of Tacoma owners don't spend as much time Offroad as someone working in the woods. So your getting feedback from those 99% driving situations. Most probably don't notice a difference.

For someone like you or me, 5100's are a big improvement. Best bang for your buck short of going after coil overs.

Same reason I run BFG AT2 Load E. Overkill for 99% of people. But exactly what I need to keep from getting flats everyday at work.

Everything I do to my truck is function over form. I get a sense that's what you're looking for. So trust me!

 

Yes, I was introduced to Toyota's thin paint the first trip down trails with small branches. I guess they have to keep prices down somehow...

 

Thank you this is the feedback and discourse I am looking for

 

When I hear "stiff" and associate that with suspension I think of something designed to carry more weight and will not have as much "give" to it. So when I hit a bump or pothole with a "stiffer" configuration, I am thinking that stiffness will be transferred to more vibration and shock into the truck and its passengers. Perhaps I have a misconception on the terminology being used to describe the suspension components as "stiff" -- or we are just talking past one another.

 

A bouncy ride is caused by a worn out/blown shock, a shock that isn't designed to be paired with a high spring rate coil, or a cheap shock that can't handle the heat (literally) when it is pushed hard (e.g., factory).

Find someone in your area with King or Fox bypass coilovers on their truck and have them give you a ride. You'll see just how smooth "stiff" is.

 

I don't want a lift but would be interested in eventually improving the off road feel while maintaining the on-road comfort as well. Seems like adding deaver 10 leaf pack to rear and Icon Stage 1 or similar Kings might get the job done but do not want to sacrifice a smooth on-pavement ride. The TRD OR suspension is a big improvement over my 2003 Ford Ranger I was using for all of my hunting stuff but I think it could still be better. Some of those potholes and washboard roads could be tamed a bit more.