Where is oil filter location?

That is the correct way to do it. I always beat the time limits and have to change several times a year.

 

Looks like an after market company could be born here... Build a well machined filter with smooth spinning parts vs. that plastic toyoda crap with metal inserts... Looks like $100.00 upgrade... I guess a Fumoto valve would hang too low... anyone tried a Fumoto valve on this set up???

 

There's no plastic on our 2008 sienna canister.
Both parts look like cast aluminum to me.
I wonder about compatability?

 

They think they're trying to save the fucking world again. Smh

 

Whoever did the oil change on it before did it wrong. The drain bolt has a very low torque rating. Like half that of the filter cap.

 

The only time we get problems with the plastic housings is when someone over tightens the filter, which happens a lot. All you need to do is just snug it up, not reef on it. Same thing happens with the aluminum ones but it's much easier to get the plastic ones off when you have to break them.

Toyota went with this design back in 04 but just started using it on the truck motors. It's more cost effective for them, increase their profits, and less impact on environment by not throwing out a metal filter every oil change. It's a win, win, win for them

 

That's probably smart. I change my current car's oil every 3k right now but manual suggests it.

 

Since my first truck (22re) I change the oil every 3K. No matter what the manual says. Particullates don't have a timeline.

 

I'm glad my deal on my truck is coming with free lifetime oil changes. I have always changed the oil on my previous vehicles, but this looks like a pita.

 

Me thinks I like my 14 TRD more and more after some of the things I see on the new 16. This oil filter arrangement is a piece of crap! Why Toyota, would you do that. The level of skill of your oil change folks may make this a challenge to changing the oil. What was wrong with the old method. My trade plans are on hold now.

 

Not sure anyone noticed but on the new 2017 Tacoma TRD PRO looks like they changed the skid plate design so you dont have to drop the plate at every oil change.



" 5. There’s a new, oil change-friendly front skid plate.
Sweers says current TRD Pro owners complained about having to remove the quarter-inch plate to change the oil. Now they don’t have to."

 

I found a link on this website that referenced a Lexus Aluminium housing (p/n

$42 15620-31060 15643-31050

15620-31060) that replaces the composite housing. Not only does it replace it, you don't have to change out the inner tube assembly. I used copper anti-seize when I reinstalled it on the aluminium threads. Granted I had to put the composite in a vice and then remove the "3/8" drive plug. Reinstalled it in the new housing as per torque specs stated on it. This was all done at the first oil change at 4750. I then drove the truck 450 miles the next day, stopping after the first 80 miles to check for leakage; none. I have the same composite housing on the wife's 2014.5 Camry. I obtained the filter wrench from Ebay for $12.00 listed as a Aluminum Oil Filter Cup Wrench Tool 64.5mm 14 Flute FITS TOYOTA LEXUS USA SHIPS ( 161368846190 ). I made a point to not order the composite one. Works on my Taco and the Cam.

 

There is something that I noticed nobody has brought up. When I wrenched for a living we would get the occasional Harley come in with a "Death Rattle". I'd cut the flange off the canister filter with a big pipe wrench and then pull out the paper pleated filter assembly from the can, grab a box cutter and cut the pleats away from the center metal cylinder. You could then spread the pleated paper part of the filter open (about 3" x 15") and shine a trouble light (shop light for some of you) on it. At this point the engine health is pretty obvious....think of "panning for gold". OldyTyme Harleys (70's and earlier) had these canister filters too and you could get a quick look at any differences from one oil change to the next very easily. Trouble is evident in the filter pleats well in advance of engine noises and major problems. So don't just pitch the filter and curse the mess. Take a closer look at it and get to know your engine on another level.

 

I just got my Tacoma, so I haven't changed the oil yet, but the design of the Tacoma oil filter isn't new to me. My 2011 Tundra had the same design. The biggest problem with that truck was dealing with the heavy skid plate on that big truck. I never looked forward to the wrestling match getting that thing back on.

Every time I changed the oil in my Tundra, I removed the drain plug with a 3/8 drive. The trick I learned from a Tundra forum was to take the plastic drain tool, put it in an empty wine bottle, and shove that up into the filter housing until it snapped in place and the oil started flowing. The oil in the filter assembly would drain in to the wine bottle, and I'd dump that into my drain pan. When I would next unscrew the housing, and there would only be a little bit of oil left in the housing.

I've always changed my oil every 3k miles with synthetic. I did it at 4k on my Tundra, but I'll probably do it every 5k on my Tacoma, with an extra change at 1k. My friends tell me I'm wasting my money, but my other two Toyotas are 13 and 15 years old, and still running strong.

 

Here is a video on changing the oil and filter on a 2016 Tacoma.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?annot...&feature=iv&src_vid=slrxxWsa2uU&v=oNfLLRzAMQc

 

That's the correct tool.

 

homie you forgot using an old cardboard box for a oil mat, your driveway must look like the Exxon Valdez spill happened there