160K Mile Move to Synthetic?

Well, I have access to buying Motul at discounted prices due to my line of work. It's a little more pricey than Mobil 1 even at a discount, and IMO it's way too expensive for a truck and not a race car at retails prices... but since I don't have to pay retail, I'll go for it.

 

If it aint broke dont fix it??

 

Motul is good stuff, if you can get your hands on it, run the heck out of it!

 

Funny, I'm thinking of switching to conventional. I change my oil every 5k anyways. Everyone in BITOG says Pennzoil yellow bottle or Castrol GTX is good. Most say modern conventional cleans just as good as synth, and you really only need synth for long OCIs or for high performance /forced induction engines, or extreme cold or heat (don't have that in middle TN).

Was pretty convinced that conventional is fine after seeing the thread on this page about the guy that has 400k on his truck and uses conventional Castrol GTX in his truck.

 

Mobil super conventional is suppose to clean well and guarantees protection for 5000. I used it my first oil change in my new to me 2015. It's only $15 a jug as well. Will probably switch to synthetic the next oil change though just cause it's so hot here in Tx and if I get lazy and go past a bit I won't worry so much.

 

Main reason I use synthetic is superior cold flow ability. Conventional doesn't move quick enough for me on a cold morning. Synthetic cold flow abilities are thanks to PAO's and ester base stocks. Although there are very few synthetics left that are primarily PAO or ester, they all contain trace amounts of them which tremendously improves cold flowability and protection in extreme heat where conventional oils break down. Synthetic oil was originally designed for aircraft engines to withstand temperatures as high as 500 degrees, if it's good enough for that, I want it in my engine!

 

I see no reason for it. Dino oil is on sale regularly and filters are cheap anyways. My last Tacoma went 300k on whatever dino oil was on sale. No oil consumption ever between changes. 5-6000 was my schedule point but it was usually closer to 7500 when I got around to change it.

Now, my Tundra required synthetic and I'm forced to use it or risk VVT issues in the future.

43 oil changes and I saved around $7 per change. I saved over $300 in oil cost. I would still be driving it today, but the frame rusted in half. Replaced it with the '04 in my avatar.

Look at it this way. If its not needed, save the money and use it for a reward for changing the oil. Buy a 6 pack and enjoy.

 

Some folks on BITOG said they reduced the moly content quite a bit in recent years. Still is probably great oil, but not as great as it once was.

 

I have to say that it's more important to change the oil often (whatever interval you choose based on your needs - 3,000, 5000, 7000) than what oil you use, really. That said I agree with the statements about cold temps. I used to live down by the water and the temps were always warm. I could also just hop in my truck/car and immediately drive off slowly to warm up as I went - Which is one good method of doing it if it's done right. (keep revs low, don't lug the motor, etc.). But now I deal with colder temps and snow in winter. If the synthetic (high ester based on my choosing) will aid in better flow in the cold, even better. Also, I cannot just drive off on the easy road after starting up now like I used to be able to. I have to deal with a bit of a climb immediately after start up as well as a bit of offroading before getting on the main road. So in my opinion and for my needs, I'm switching to synth... mainly for the piece of mind that during those cold starts and climbs before getting on the main road, I'll have better lubrication.

 

I bought mine with 161K on it. I put Mobil-1 Extended mileage in it. No leaks.
I wont put RP in the block given the cost of RP. That may change if I find a way to get it cheaper in bulk.

I just did the rear-diff with RP and will put RP in the AT next.