What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Pretty sure this is what you need
http://www.lceperformance.com/3RZ-Equalized-Fuel-Injector-Set-10-00-04-p/1062116.htm

 

Mine where pink on my 2.7. But thats all I know about injectors....

 

Can someone point to what section of the factory service manual covers AT fluid service? I have the zipped up version of the 2003 manual.

 

I always thought it was the other way around? I mean you can go that way too but you'll risk giving her an infection.

 

Are you considering a flush?

 

wow. $250.00.

 

Not yet, I just want to start draining a couple quarts, run it for 1K, and repeat for a while.
A pump flush sounds tempting though. But I would first like to try and get crap out and some synthetic in.

 

Yeah but you get $48 of it back when you ship your old ones back to them

 

truffle butter...

 

Oh I've done a full flush on the tranny. Its pretty easy to do. But you'll drain just over 3 quarts out of the bellypan. So you'll need 4 quarts of fluid. But if your going to change fluid you should just flush the system.

You can use your truck as pump to flush the system. I copied this from my build page.

So with the transmission flush. I have the A340E transmission. This is how I did it by myself. It would be help full if you had another person but it's possible with one person. Any ways I first drained the transmission and then disconnected the hose that pumps the fluid into the radiator. For me it was the driver side hose that connects to the radiator. To figure it out if you have an 2wd auto then you will see three lines running into you transmission. The lowest one that comes into the pan is the dipstick. You have one that runs to the rear of the transmission and you have one that runs to the front of the transmission and the sensor is next to it. So the rear line is your return line. The line in the front next to the sensor is what forces the fluid to the radiator. Back to the flush. I disconnected the hose and I didn't see much fluid come out of there, but I would still put a drip pan under it when you disconnect it.


You can see the hard line on the radiator in the pic. So I ran some air threw the radiator to push whatever fluid out of the radiator into the transmission and out the drain plug. I didn't see much come out. You don't need a lot of air pressure just enough to clear the line the best you could. I got out a just over 3 quarts from that draining.


After I cleared as much fluid as I can I put the drain plug back onto the transmission pan and put in 4 quarts of fluid. Then I moved on to the flush part. I put my drip pan under the hose hanging next to the radiator and put the parking brake on then turn the key on the truck and put the truck into neutral. Turn on the truck step outside and watch the fluid for a few seconds come out of the hose then turn the truck off. You need to pay attention here and estimate how much fluid is coming out because you don't want to accidentally run it dry. I keep adding fluid into the dipstick section on the transmission to keep the fluid where it needs to be. I only had the truck on enough to run 1 to 2 quarts threw then turned it off. By the time I was done I emptied 7 quarts total and replaced 7 quarts total. It is very simple. As long as you keep the same amount of fluid going in as whats coming out you should be fine. I did drive the truck after and double checked my fluids to make sure they are where they need to be. So far everything runs great. This was my first time doing this and I was nervous but happy with the out come.

 

I am not against a flush, but I have also heard that when you switch to new fluid, it starts some new cleaning action, compared to the old crudded up stuff. so I was thinking of just running some Valvoline Maxlife ATF in, every thousand or so, then flushing later down the road and putting in RP.

 

I haven't heard of that but ok. I run the same fluid in my tranny now. 4 quarts should get you started. good luck bud.

 

So, I assume there aren't "upgraded" injectors for this platform?

 

There are but you'll need an ECU piggyback and a good reason to bother. Like boost. The OEM rebuilt that LCE offers is the most solid option to avoid nonsense that comes with cheap aftermarket injectors. Not an item worth taking a chance on to me.

 

I am glad to hear it is that simple to flush (carefully).
So, about how long was it taking for those 1-2 quarts to come out each interval?

 

Generic noob question:

What is the best way to reattach both OEM armor plates?

There is a the wider plate connecting to 3 bolts under the radiator, then a tongue and groove mate to the back plate.
Then the back plate has 2 or 3 bolts at the rear and a couple bolts where they join.

When I changed my oil it was a clusterfuck.

I figured I could get rear on once the front was on, just align the tongue and groove.

FAIL

So then, ok, I messed up, put the rear on first then mate them up and secure

FAIL

What I ended up doing was rear back bolts on loose, kind of hanging, attach front plate, secure front plate and then swear a lot and get the middle bolts on.

Where did I go wrong? Maybe I had enough of the rear tongue in the front groove, but it didnt seem like it...

 

Not long. I basically turned on the truck walked to the front and watched for a few seconds and walked back, got into the truck and turned it off. I kept checking the level with the dip stick and toping it off.

 

Yeah, I'm starting to come to that realization. Camelback want like $160 per, for new.


oof.

 

I leave the two plates together and remove as a whole. Takes like 5mins to remove

 

These are all really reasonable prices, all of my previous Nissan's and my Ford cost much more for a full set. I meant for remans, not the new Camelback's those are too much.