Steering Pull Diagnosis Help

After many attempts to find the issue myself I come seeking help of those with more experience.

Meet my truck.


She has been a great truck. Got her back in 2012. No major problems until now.

Symptoms:
In January I moved from Central California to Northern Idaho. All packed up with the bed loaded, my wife, a large dog, a cat, and myself we drove. On the second day of driving I noticed a new drift in the steering that wasn't very specific but just wondering steering. I contributed to the extra weight in the back. Its also important that I mention just before the trip I built a new rear bumper with a swing out tire carrier and two fuel cans. It added some weight to the back end. After the move and everything unloaded I noticed a very bad/horrible pull in the steering. Now this isn't any pull I have ever experienced before. Its not just an alignment pull or anything like that. What happens, and generally at speeds 40 mph and up, is I'll be driving strait then all of the sudden the tires will shift and pull to either side and pull the truck that way, but the steering wheel does not move. now the wheels may only be moving and inch or so but at 60-70 mph on the freeway the pull is very drastic. I tried to get a feel for when it would happen. Its almost like you can feel the steering wheel let go of the tires for a split second. To get it back on track as small to medium shift of the steering wheel to the opposite direction of travel straitens out the tires. I also tried to see if it was associated with anything. Bumps, pot holes, none of them set it off. It is random most of the time. The only time I can usually make it happen is when changing lanes on the freeway. When I drift left to change lanes I will start the lane change and then the drastic pull will happen to the left. It will do it left or right however and at completely random times. Also should mention that I removed the new rear bumper and tested it without it and the problem was still there.

What I've tried already:
Steering rattle/play fix: was drill and pinned. Double check to have no play or clunk in it. Problem persisted.
New/Re-manufactured steering rack with new tie rod ends- replaced with fluid flush and tighten to spec. (alignment might be off very slightly). New rack bushings and sway bar bushings. Problem Persisted.
New upper and lower ball joints- the boots were blown and they did need to be changed. After the ball joint change the occurrences became less frequent, but still there and just as drastic when they do happen.


What I plan to do next:
My next plan is to replace the struts/suspension (I actually believe they are the factory installed ones) and it does have a spacer level/lift one it (came like that when I bought it). The front and back do look worn.

What I really should be doing?
Has anyone seeing this before? Any suggestions would help a lot, after the struts I'm out of ideas. Truck has 174923 miles on it.

 

You should check the upper and lower A-arm bushings. You may have to remove the shock and spring to get the tension off of the A-arms to check for movement. The A-arm movement should be taught with some resistance in the up and down check. Front to back movement should be minimal with a little bushing flex. Also since you are going to need an alignment anyways, you may just mark the alignment tabs and go ahead and remove the upper and lower A-arms to check for bushing deterioration. When reassembling, use the marked alignment tab to get close to where they were before disassembly.

 

Thanks for the input CD20H. I had thought of that with some research last night. I think I might just replace the bushings.

 

I haven't gotten a chance to things off to check but I took a good look at them and took some pictures. My thoughts are they look bad. Why do guys think.

 

When you get a chance......replace them. That particular one the picture is torn.

 

That what it looks liked to me. The whole lower control arm looks a little crooked too. Don't know how strait they are suppose to look but I think its straighter then they are sitting in the mounts. Thanks for the input.

 

I'm no mechanic but I think that looks f'd up.

 

So update on the issue:
I replaced the the lower control arm bushings with whiteline busings. Took about that day. But it did not fix the issue. It still has the pull. Today I replaced the upper control arms with OEM replacements. That did not fix the issue either. I'm going to get the alignment done to see if that does anything. I'm starting to think that the replacement steering rack, being a re-manufactured one, is bad and has excessive play in the pinion gear which is causing the drift.
After the lower bushing did not fix it I did a test. I tightened the steering rack guide to where the steering wheel needed force to move. I my thinking was if there was play in the pinion gear the tightened guide would not allow the play to affect the wheels. While driving on the freeway the shift was still there but the steering wheel made no movement. Still might be the rack but i'm not sure.

 

That is a good possibility.
I just got done changing my steering rack to cure a bump steer . It would get pushed when the left side hit a line. I got a shop to diagnose it and they found the rack had been damaged by a hit to the tie rod, the left boot was all tore up, bushing shot moving up and down and leaking opil , the left wheel was wobbling free for about 2 inches before catching control.
I went to NAPA and they said they had a rack in stock. Took it out of the box and the steering shaft splines looked horrible, so corroded they were getting faint, and it looked like somebody dropped it on the oil lines. I asked for another one, and they got me one that looks brand new. Also got the tie rod ends.
I was careful to flush the old fluid so it doesnt ruin the newer rack
had to readjust the rag joint twice to get it straight and only got a test around the block a few times but it feels real nice and tight now.
I will get it aligned and let you know if mine is totally cured

 

got alignment and had to take it back two more times to get the steering wheel centered .
Long test drive and it handles perfect. Oregon allows studded tires so the hiways have wagon wheel ruts Before changing the rack they used to throw me around, mostly to the right Now I cant even feel them. Even bumps are smoother, I used to get hammered by manhole covers so I used to dodgr them, now I can barely feel them

 

I did a test today by pulling the boot back and watching the rack. I had the front wheels up, the steering wheel locked, AND the steering wheel rachet strapped tight to where it could not move at all. There was no movement in the steering column. I then pushed the drive side wheel side to side to see how the play was. That is what the videos are of. When I tighten the steering rack guide it does stop it from moving when I push on it but driving with the guide tight it will still pull. I'm wondering if this is the issue and the remanufactered rack I got is bad.