Oil Consumption way too high.

Part is easy to find at the dealer and cheap too.
I will do a compression check too and report back. Toyota spec says no more than 5 PSI difference between each cylinder.

 

Small update. A few odds and ends on order including a new PCV and some gaskets as I will be tackling the leaking coolant bypass pipe next weekend.

 

Update. So the PCV is not stuck. The intake runners on the head were coated in oil and the intake manifold had dirt in it. I'd say the filter failed to do its job. Vehicle shopping now as Toyota wants 5k for an engine

 

Holy crap!! Was there dirt in the intake tubing, or did it leak in through the manifold mating surface, or throttle body area? Now I feel like I need to check everything. Last time I changed the spark plugs I checked the intake tubing and throttle body and didnt see any dust/dirt. What kind of air filter are you using?

 

What filter do you have? For what its worth, my "culprit" was dirt too. I ran a AFE dry for a few months, otherwise stock. Most my miles are put on a dirt road. Its shitty but kind of nice for me to see someone else having this problem.

 

Had a K&N years ago but I have been running conventional air filters since. The factory air box is not forming a seal any longer. Either going to buy another or find one in a junk yard. Until then I will be gluing the filters in with silicone.

Again K&N filter element for a bit but has been stock since. I believe the air box is at fault.

AFE, K&N and several other performance cleanable elements don't do anything for power, performance or fuel economy. As a matter of fact the engine will go into closed loop and fight to keep the air fuel ratio stochiometric or close to it.



Totally off topic but check out my other thread about sold the wrong part. Toyota seems to be loosing their quality control big time and they don't seem to care.

 

Update cylinders were bore scoped and all is well inside. Still need a compression check and a cylinder leak down check. Have a feeling it's a valve guide and seal

 

Curious what you found out. I have a 2008 2.7L and all of the sudden I'm blowing through 1 quart every 1000 miles. I replaced the PCV valve and next move will be compression/leak down tests.

 

I smell BS or exaggerations. I haven't heard of any oil burning problems in any Toyota pickups

There were some major oil burning problems in Corolla and some others like 20 years ago. That's all I can recall.

That said it's still entirely possible you're burning oil. I just wouldn't call this common. My 2TR doesn't use anything noticeable between oil changes and it's at 204k.

 

This is definitely a known issue with the 2tr-fe motor. Do a little research and you’ll find lots of info on it. I’m at 130k miles and went from adding oil for the first time ever one year ago to using one quart every 1000miles now.

 

I'm in a similar boat as @BabyTaco had the engine rebuilt in Feb/March of this year, as it was burning 1L per 600km, rings had lost all retention, I went full send with the build forged internals lots of LCE goodies hastings race rings etc. There's a few threads out there, I started one as well, best thing you can do is report the issue to Toyota, if it becomes enough of an issue a tsb will be issued

 

I changed out the spark plugs and found one covered in oil. I have an appt with a mechanic to do a leak down and a compression test to further diagnose.

 

Tube seal

 

First? Watch the air filter close if you drive in dusty areas or live in a state with high winds. I just automatically change mine every 2 years and sometimes every year depending on how much snow we get and how wet it is. I'm anal about the air filter after I found mine filled with dirt because of a mild winter. I used to check mine once or twice a year but a drier winter with no snow resulted in far more dust.

My oil analysis just after that showed high silicone which is dirt and my iron numbers went up. I found and solved the problem even before I got the oil analysis back so now I check the air filter very often and I'll never use a K&N type filter. Wix standards for me, thank you.

Next? Get oil analysis done once in a while and you can head off problems in the future before they happen.

Next? Just change the PCV every few years. ll you have to do is pull it out, shake it and if it rattles you're good.

Next? Use good oil and preferably a synthetic if you can afford it. Better yet, a full 100% synthetic which requires a "boutique" oil. Pennzoil Platinum is the only "off-the-shelf" oil that I know of that is 100% pure synthetic and it's real good stuff. I don't use it though. The rest are blends including Mobil 1 which I used for 15+ years so no favoritism here.

My 2004 2.7 has 191,000 miles on it and I go 10,000 miles between oil changes and it doesn't burn a drop. I put in 5.5 quarts every oil change. It has been treated very kindly all it's life though with anal retentive maintenance. I abused it every now and then when I first bought it from my dad but quit doing that. I want it to last 500,000 miles.

 

If you want to clean out you're engine when it comes to stuck rings try the old standby. Rislone. Just add a quart in place of a quart of oil at your next oil change and then drive it until the next oil change. It takes a while to work but it's one of the best because it loosens all the crap up slowly so you don't end up with clogged oil passages and other problems. Just use a real good oil like Pennzoil when you do it. Pennzoil has a very good detergent pack. One of the best on the market today, Just use the Dino. Synthetic would be a waste of money for a "cleaning".

Rislone has been around for decades. It works. There are others but none of the new stuff is going to work any better. There are other ways to free up stuck rings and clean an engine but Rislone is the lazy guy's way.

 

I can't find much of anything by doing an internet search for 2TR-FE oil burning. Some other Toyota engines as mentioned in another post, but not the 2TR-FE. How about posting some of the sources you have found for this info. I'm not arguing, I just can't find anything on it other than right here. Nothing else bad about this engine either, except a few head gasket failures. I just don't get it???

 

I was worried that rings or valve seals were blowing by also.

Turns out my rear main is leaking.
I’ve watched inside the inspection cover and can see it’s fresh on the rear main retainer bolts.

Never left a spot and didn’t look wet, but the factory crc crap was sucking it up.

 

I've had some luck with adding Zmax in reducing oil use, it supposedly soaks in to the metal and removes engine deposits. It worked well in a 1996 2.4 i had, I quit having to add oil between changes, I think it freed the rings up mostly. It also gave it more pep!

 

A couple things can be done about this. If I were you I would start with inspecting leaks. If none are present move to step two, take it in to a shop which still has an old school 5 gas analyzer and have them check the gasses output at idle. High HCs will indicate an oil burning issue, low will indicate you are in good shape. Next, let's keep things simple, inspect and replace the PCV valve. If troubles continue, I would move to a heavier weight oil. 10-40 should do the trick assuming you are currently running 5-30. If you are already running 10-40 then step it up to 15-40. This should slow or stop the consumption entirely if you do indeed have deeper mechanical seal or ring issues. By being systematic in this approach this should net you the results you are looking for. At 185K you may have leaky valve seals and the Pistons rings may be okay. Good luck and let us know how it works out for you, as I am curious as to what your resolution will be.

 

By the way 5 psi is not true. 20 psi variance and up is where issues begin to occur, of course I am referring to a static compression test and not dynamic. Dynamic is 5 psi variance tolerance max.

No, it's true. We've had multiple 2.4L 2TR Tacomas roll through the shop with misfire or oil burning issues which wound up being the head gasket, or valve guide seals. The engines are built well, but their gaskets and seals sometimes just give up the ghost.