Painting over Powdercoat

Not sure if this is the correct forum but I'm picking up some used sliders in the next week that were powdercoated but are now showing minor surface rust in spots. Seller has offered to have them recoated @ $250. Was wondering if it's possible to just paint over the existing powdercoat with rattlecans since I plan on using them for their intended purpose and will most likely need to be touched up on a somewhat regular basis as it is - so re-coating them seems like a bit of a waste of $.

Thanks for the help!

 

DIY..that's something that will always be thrashed on

 

skip the paint and go for bed liner. I wish I had done the same.

 

I'm with the bed liner idea. But get em sand blasted first.

 

Mine are powder-coated and I touch them up with a rattle can when necessary. Don't obsess over it, just keep the rust at bay.

 

Thanks for replies. I think I was a bit unclear on my first post... I do plan on DIY'ing - I just wasn't sure if it was "okay" to paint over PC since there is such a process of cleaning, etching primer-ing, spray painting, when it comes to painting first time from raw steel.

Is there any prep-work that has to be done before spraying over PC? Or is a good cleaning with dish soap good enough? I only ask because I don't have access to a sandblaster and from what I've read, the best way to strip PC is using very strong abrasives chemicals and I don't want to go that route in the apartment I'm living in with a small dog around.

 

OP, I'm in the same predicament but, My issue is i have a powdercoated 4xinnovations rear tube bumper instead of the sliders-(my sliders are spray painted and so easy to touch up) that I had powdercoated and it's chipping and rusting where the chips are and peeling off where rust travels under the coating and I was told that if you scuff it up you can paint over it but it's obviously all in the prep. But I'd like more opinions on how to do it and have the "rattle can" spraypaint to stick to the powdercoating. It's tough when some areas are bare metal some bad powdercoating and some good shiny intact powdercoating. I think this is exactly what you want to know also. So come on paint guys. What would be the step by step to prep the bad and good areas and paint over, andbe able to touch up frequently.

 

That's the route I ended up going. Used dawn dish soap to clean up and dry everything out and then a heavy scotchbrite pad and steel brush and went over all the welds, surface rust, and chipped pain that was on the slider. Hit it with two cans of Rustoleum Rust Converter and then about 4 cans of Rustoleum Hammered Black spray-paint. You're right though, a lot of it is in the prep and if I had gone over them with a wire wheel and had cleaned them up very very very well, then they would look just as good as if I'd ordered new and unpowdered. As it stands, there's a few spots where the paint chipped that I painted over that you can tell there are additional layers of paint/PC in spots. They've been sitting in my backyard for about a week now since I've painted them - just waiting on @JLee - who's been a huge help - to send over some bolts and nuts from BAMF so I can get these on my truck. The paint looks like it'll hold up just fine though - I guess time will tell.

 

I think it came out great, thats good news for me too cause at least it works, thanks for that update, maybe again in a year or so. I'll try and figure a way to post some of my results

 

I was gonna suggest have them sandblasted and then use a primer and cover with a rubberized undercoating... Scuffs and scrapes are easy to sand and recover with rubberized undercoating again and looks good as new also no worries of paint chipping issues with undercoating so less time preping

 

How's the paint holding up? I've got some sliders on the way and will
be painting them...

 

It's started to chip here and there and a bit of rust is showing through - mostly at joints or where there was unevenness in the powdercoat below. Honestly at this point, it doesn't bother me because they're low on the truck and weren't going to stay pretty forever as it was. I've also used them as sliders and went through a winter with them so ymmv.

Wouldn't be terribly hard to removed all the paint and rust and repaint them anytime you'd want touch them up either, just time consuming.

 

Satin black. http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-roll-bar-chassis-paint