Deleted

Deleted

 

So the tweeter on that channel is playing normally, but the woofer isn't? Is that right? Or is the whole channel attenuated? If it were a wiring issue, I'd suspect a completely dead channel or crunchy static sort of noise. Almost sounds like a bad crossover at this point - which is reasonably rare. Could be a bad amp channel too though. Do you know how to test output voltage?

 

When I wrote 'woofer', I meant your 6.5...not your subwoofer. I think we're on the same page now though.

To test voltage, you need a sine wave and a multimeter. Most multimeters are optimized for around 50 - 60 Hz so you'll want to stay in that neighborhood. If you can run a full signal through the amp and get that frequency down to 50 Hz, that will be ideal. You can use REW or WinISD or any number of phone apps to generate a sine wave...just maybe put your phone in airplane mode first . -0dB is most desirable, but -3 will do (best you can do with REW). Or if you have a CD with test frequencies, use it. Block the signal to ALL your other channels either by disconnecting RCAs or disconnecting the speaker wire. Speakers should be disconnected at the amp for the channels you'll use for test and control. Set your head unit to 3/4 volume. Make sure your test tone source is all the way up.

Start the test tone playing through your system. If you hear anything, you're doing it wrong (maybe start at zero and work your way up with the volume knob to make sure everything's disconnected). Measure AC voltage on a channel you know is good - do the left rear since the gain will be the same. Then compare that to the suspect channel. They should be very close to the same. If they're not, then you found your problem. If they are the same, test the crossover in the same manner. Or avoid all this and switch crossovers. It may be beneficial to measure the voltage across all channels though to see where the shop set your gain levels assuming you haven't messed with them. And if you do have a bad amp channel, that might help explain why.

 

Okay, then maybe the shop should do this . We don't want to make any smoke. Sure, try the crossover swap if that's comfortably within your skill set. That should get you your answer assuming the wiring is fine.

REW/WinISD are both free software programs that do very different things yet have that one thing in common. As there's a world of info out there on those, I'll just leave that there.

The little switch on your crossover is most likely attenuation for the tweeter.

 

No problem - hope it's something cheap & easy. Good luck!

 

And I just realized I totally overlooked that you wrote that your tweeter is playing normally. You probably have a bad crossover component.

 

If this is your amp then X OVER should be set to AP. The crossovers that come with the speakers will do the rest. On your sub amp it should be set to LP.

 

Glad to hear you pinned down the issue. I'm curious to hear how Kicker plays this as you stayed well within recommended available power.

 

I have 2 hybrid audio crossovers that i ended up not using in my build. I think ebay has them for 75-100 each, i will sell you both for 120. Let me know and i can post some pictures for you.
Here is a pic of the crossover diagram...

 

Let me know if you are interested in the crossovers and i will post some pictures.

 

I also have a set of Polk audio component speakers that i did not end up using.

 

Once you get your gains you should be good.

Do you have your system installed yet?

 

What are the gain levels set too on the amps?

 

FWIW, putting crossovers in the doors like that can shorten their life. There's typically more moisture in the doors & repeated closing subjects them to excessive forces.

 

If you're getting a new set of crossovers I might not bother. Seems like they lasted a while and you have a spare replacement coming. It's a good bit of work to do that.

 

Thanks for the update Cypher. Sounds like Kicker took care of you - good stuff!

On the gain setting thing, there's more to it than pot position. It's impossible to look at those pictures and have any idea what's going on with output. I explained most of the procedure in a previous post - the voltage thing with the multimeter and test tones. If you wanted to go through that exercise and report your findings, that will give you an idea if your gains are close to where they should be. Some shops do this properly and some just turn the pots to an arbitrary position...hard to say without knowing your installer. Pretty clean install though and I especially dig the amp racks, so there's a fighting chance they're where they should be.