TORSPD: NEVR

Also reroute all the piping so it runs next to your headers

 

I'm going to have to unwrap my headers then.

 

Ooooo yeah, better do that. Maybe just wrap some heating element around the intake piping.

 

We're on to something!

 

Very impressed. Much more entertained watching you do something like this. I wouldn't go near this type of project even if I knew what I was doing, so much trouble shooting and stress when things don't fit or don't function properly. You seem very good at trouble shooting.

 

I prefer hot air as well. I also enjoy filtering my filleted air.

 

Thank you. Very much. The knowledge gained has also complemented the elevation in my trouble shooting prowess. Of course, all I do at work all day is troubleshooting as well. Listening to the electromechanical harmony of my machines, to determine what the actual source of the problem is. I honest trouble shoot every day. Crazy when I think about it. Fulfilling though.

The throw out bearing was the most time consuming aspect of this swap. The recently removed TOB was a static location, but adjustable height, TOB. It required precise placement prior to stabbing the transmission. That was fine. The problem is that the pedal was extremely stiff, and after a period of miles without pedal depression, with would become even harder to depress. Never made sense and was irritating. None of us could figure that out, nor why after sitting over night it would be extremely soft, before starting that process again. Then there was the fact that the shifting was very notchy. As if the clutch weren't completely disengaged. That is whyI was ready to try the updated GM TOB, but knew that a lot of measurements would need to be taken.

Did you just pull your hose off to one-up my thermal efficiency of air induction?

 

With the GM TOB, I was just concerned if the input shaft sleeve would hit the clutch disk's hub. It cleared, and the engagement is further, so the shifts are smooth like they should have been. As well, the pedal is consistent and much much lighter.

 

I am running 35s and have no fender liner so i kept collapsing air filters when it was drawing in snow while driving.

 

Makes sense. When mine was rear mounted, and the snorkel was between the bed and the fender, it would collect so much dirt that it would also collapse, over time. Once that happened, by by boost. Ugh.

 

I currently have no fender liner on that side either. Had to pull my fender and have all sorts of dents removed. After a old bum on a bike smashed into it, at a stop light. His face planted firmly into my window. Lol.

 

One thing that I would like to point out is that now with these cams, my engine creates less vacuum at idle. Where it used to be 20-22 inHg, it is now ~18 inHg.

 

Since I am currently using the OEM ecu and injectors, there is not a way to electronically tune my Open Loop AFR's. Well they have been pegging my gauge at 10.0:1. Which means it was even more rich than that. Being that I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator........I have done a little adjusting......

I need to make a video, to more accurately show what I am doing to get a better open loop AFR. Simply put, I have decreased fuel pressure, and now they are are 10.8:1. I just a few moments ago reduced the fuel pressure by a few more psi. When traffic dies down, I will take it for a test drive and see where it it.

After the first adjustment, I there was a noticeable increase in power. It was just toooooooo rich.

 

I also ordered another

$21 Motorad 456-160 Engine Coolant Thermostat for 8-Cylinder GM, Black

Motorad 456-160 (160°) t-stat. It is the necessity with these sleeved engines. Especially in the summer months. Now the temps range from 180-195. Whereas before they were in the low 200's.

 

How's the cold start with cams and drivability? I've seen a few 700hp plus evos look completely undrivable at meets I've been too.

 

I could get a quick video. I usually let it warm up to 150° before I take off. It drives just like normal though.

 

https://youtu.be/9llroA4LBH8

 

That's mellow. I like the hint of a lope sound when warmed up. Sounds nothing like a stock 1gr for sure. My mazda is brutal with the 2k rpm cold start compared to you, but wait til those poly motor mounts come along.

 

When it idles down to the 700's, it ever so slightly rocks the truck side to side. A smile then follows. Being as hot as it is right now, the A/C is on, and it stays in the 800's and doesn't rock. Which all means that you are right. It idles low on startup and is quite mild. Has none of the associated rasp which is always had with DTLT's. None.

I really need to communicate with Bronson, and get those mounta made....just seems so many other strings are pulling on me. I need a knife.

Next video will be doing some acceleration and cruising.