Clear coat failing.....

Get the Nano Resin for the paint:

http://www.drbeasleys.com/nano-resin.html

If your plastics on the exterior are starting to show aging (fading / turning grey color), have a look at their plastic coating. Amazing stuff and not only returns a piece to a nice shiny black but will keep it looking like so unlike the over the counter products like mother's back to black that you have to keep reapplying every couple of days/weeks.

 

I second using a polisher and doing a paint corrective step between a clay bar and sealing. Totally worth the work and the money. Especially on metallic colors. You will be impressed at the difference.

 

Take out the insert and platic dip it black. You will never go back.

 

Afternoon storm here in Austin and stuck in bumper to bumper traffic. Thought I'd post a shot of my hood to show you how well water beads up with a glasscoated surface. This is just rain, truck was dirty before the rain started but the coating is doing its job.



Edit: one more after I stopped.

 

Don't you have to basically buff the vehicle regularly with one of those coats? or is that some other form of paint protection/sealer I'm thinking of. I know there is some coating that requires a lot of work.

 

No, this coating is claimed by the manufacturer to last 2 full years before reapplying.

Here are the steps before applying the glass coat that I used (22PLE) including products and machine:

Step 1: heavy degreaser hand wash. In this step it's OK if you want to use dawn dish soap Bc your are purposely trying to strip the paint of any wax or products.

Step 2: clay bar all painted surfaces. I use a Meguiar's clay kit and the detail spray it comes with as a lube while I clay.

Step 3: 2nd wash with ONR (optimum no rinse) you can use your favorite soap here. This is mainly to get the excess detail spray off. It can leave a film so I wash the vehicle before beginning correction.

Step 4: Paint Correction. Using the Porter Cable 7424 with an orange pad and Meguiar's 105 compound, I go panel by panel correcting all the scratches and swirls. #105 is a heavy cut compound so it can leave marring and minor scuffs but you get rid of this in the next step. After this step the bigger scratches etc should be gone (if they are not too deep).

Step 5: Ploshing the paint. Using the Porter Cable 7424 with a white pad and Meguiar's #205, Again going panel by panel to bring the paint to a high shine. Those marring marks and minor swirls should be removed in this step by #205 Bc it has much less cutting effect.

***Please note steps 4 and 5 take several hours to complete. Each panel takes 4 to 5 mins for each step (4 and 5) to get the product broken down properly so it does its job.***

Step 6: wipe down with a microfiber towel the entire vehicle( all painted surfaces) using a mixture of alcohol and water 50:50. This will ensure any chemicals that remain from the correction and polishing steps have been removed so the surface is nice and clean ready for the Glass Coat.

Step 7: LSP (Last Step Protection). This is where you apply the glass coat to seal all your hard work in and leave the paint with amazing gloss and most importantly protection. Below is a video showing how the glass coat that is on my truck is applied. Notice how beautiful the Porsche's paint looks before the guy applies the glass coat. That's Bc all the steps above were done to bring the paint to its highest level in appearance BEFORE applying the coating. Even with a brand new vehicle you should at least polish it to remove transpiration/delivery damage.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JD_R8dVSw-A

I realize to some this is a lot of work and not interested in making their truck look like this. So you don't have to do steps 4 and 5 if you still want great protection from a glass coat. It still will last as long and will have a high gloss. For those who have the time and patience to do all the steps really will be rewarded when you finish. I've had other Tacoma owners ask what "wax" I'm using to keep my truck looking new and that's when I tell them all about glass coatings.

If anybody has questions feel free to PM me.

 

I swear by using Meguiars Ultimate Liguid Wax($23ish a bottle) and the Meguiars Quick Wax Spray for in between. I usually wax my vehicles 2-4 times a year and I have a 10 year old vehicle that people still think is new. I would say when I wax a vehicle it takes maybe 25-45 minutes and is WELL worth it.

 

That's a great combo. Meguiar's ultimate wax is made of synthetics more like a sealant which will last much longer than traditional carnuba wax will. Coupling that with spray wax in between is certainly enough protection. It's why your 10+ year old vehicle still looks new.

 

Try liquid Glass. It make your life much easier.

 

what color is your truck?

 

Magnetic Grey

 

Wow dumb question after you posted pictures.

I wonder how well that stuff would look on a white truck like mine.

 

Its coming off of my roof, hood, and 3 of my 4 flares. I washed and waxed my truck at least twice a year and it still happened. I'm thinking of hitting my flares with Plasti-Dip to help protect them and make them look better. I'll just have to deal with the hood and roof until I have enough funds to have it fixed.

 

Thought I'd post this here. I picked up a bottle of this stuff to try on a friends car who doesn't detail her vehicle very often and I must say it left amazing results just by simply washing the vehicle with this stuff. High gloss and super slick surface as if I clay bared the vehicle.




Take time to read the information in the link below about how this stuff works. It's activated by water when you begin to rinse the car off. I think this is a great product for those of you who don't have time to always wash and wax your car. Just one wash with this product will provide 3 months of protection including UV Ray protection.

 

@TexS4 - Is a dual action polisher required to remove scratches/marring or can this be done by hand? I suspect it is easier/faster with a polisher.

Can polishing be done in the sun? I live in Florida and do not have a garage/carport to work in.

 

Any wax job will do the same thing, I want to see a shot of your hood after a year or two. Then Ill be impressed, until then looks just like any $10 bottle of wax was applied.

 

Obviously it depends on how bad the damage is. I bought my truck pre-owned in December, it's a '13. So it's young but the previous owner didn't treat it super well. He probably treated it like the majority of the world treats their cars. I found it hard to remove 100% of the marring and swirls with my Porter Cable DA polisher. If I had to do it by hand... I wouldn't lol. No way I would attempt to do it. It took me about an hour or so to use the polisher and do 4 passes on each panel. I still have about 50% of swirls left. That I have to go back and hit with a more hard core polish and do a two step process more than likely.

I'm sure it's possible to get some swirls and scratches by hand, but you are talking about quite a bit of work. One or both of your arms may fall off haha.

Get a polisher. Detailing is a lot of work, even with the right products and equipment, but it's kind of fun. If you have more than one vehicle you probably will get a fair amount of use out of it.

They may sell some products for the sun but most shouldn't be used in direct sunlight just because the product dries and cakes up (making it useless). So if you have to do it in the sun you may just have to do smaller bits at a time.

 

My glass coating has been on the truck for 1 year and 4 months as of today. I have never applied anything since that date so the picture above is your proof as to how good glass coatings hold up when it comes to longevity. That's why I took the random picture as I did. I was simply sitting in traffic when it started pouring down rain and you could see the water just run off the hood and bead up as it did.

PackCon pretty much answered everything for RomeoFour8 as I would. Lot of factors when talking about removing scratches but certainly way way easier and better results with a dual action polisher.

I do not recommend polishing, correcting or waxing in direct sunlight. The product you're using will flash much quicker than it should thus making it hard to remove as well as making it less effective. Correction and Polishing compounds need to break down as they go into the paint thus why a machine is recommended. Even if the car is under a tree; its better than trying to detail it in direct sun.

 

Wow, that is impressive. Thanks for clearing that up.

 

Haven't gone through the thread yet but I think this is a factory issue because our 08 has been residing in our exposed driveway its whole life and the clear coat is fine, no waxing and we live in AZ.