Power Tailgate Lock

I installed my Pop & Lock today using the video above as a guide. First, if you are going to order your Pop & Lock from Amazon, order the Positaps at the same time, it will save you some frustration. I didn't do that so I used the included wire taps which are difficult to get in the tight wiring bundle. I got it done, but like others have said, get the Positaps!

I drilled holes in the tailgate clips as others mentioned and then ran the wire down the passenger side and then up through the grommet under the passenger seat. I made a small slit and then sealed it with silicone. The wire then runs under the passenger sill and into the kick plate. The kick plate has two white plastic clips that are angled? Try as I could, I could not get them to pop back in. I ended up taking them off. The kick plate is still plenty secure with the small nut and locking into the sill plate. I cut off the excess wire, making a neat install. I used more zip ties than what was included. All in all, it is a pretty simple install, it just takes time to run the wire and make everything neat.

 

Rather than wiring to the door locks, I was thinking about wiring this up to a switch so that I can just lock and unlock from the cab as opposed to every time the doors lock/unlock.

Anybody done this?

 

I think most people use the power lock buttons so they don't accidently forget to lock the tailgate.

 

I did the install following the instructions from Pop & Lock (Driver's side Pin 10-Black to Green & Pin 9-Blue to Blue) and the tailgate locks and unlocks when the Driver's door does regardless of the setting to unlock driver's or all doors. Does anyone know if there is another set of pins on the driver side I can use to get it to work on the double click?

 

Noted for when I install one through the passenger side on my Access Cab.

Thanks!

 

I had this issue as well.

 

Just finished install at a total cost of $15. Local shop charges $150 per door/ trunk. Stealership charges $250 for something that should be included from factory.

 

Details Please???

 

I only needed 20ft of 1/8 loom ($8 ebay) and a actuator (2/$6.50 ebay). I had everything else laying around my garage already.

 

OK, gotcha. Thanks.

 

Installed my pop and lock with the posi-taps (these things are awesome) and also had to set the wires green to green, blue to red. Didn't work at first and only had a few of the tailgate bolts out before I remembered that I didn't connect the wiring under the truck. Easy enough, not too loud, works like a charm.

New box now includes 2016 Tacoma.

Dano

 

Installed my DIY electric tailgate lock actuator this weekend. Only cost $6 for the actuator, and had all the other bits laying around. Super easy...Do it!

 

It's more frustrating to know that Toyota could have done this from the start for such a low cost but chose not to.

The only reason I can think of is that they wanted to have room to improve for the vet 2017+

 

I'm looking for the correct wires to tap into so the tailgate solenoid will operate with the passenger doors on the second button press on the remote. Are these the wires for that functionality?

 

Yep, behind passenger kick panel.

 

Worked perfectly, thanks!

Passenger side front, bottom Black connector (connect to red and green wire)
GREEN (Pop & Lock wire) to GREEN (Harness), BLUE (Pop & Lock wire) to RED (Harness).

 

Just out of curiosity, will these actuators ever go bad? I mean, what if one day you go to unlock your tailgate and nothing happens, you wont be able to open your tailgate to swap out the actuator

 

Tailgate will always open with the key.

Cheers!
-Dano

 

Hey everyone, I just wanted to show there is an alternative route to install a pop&lock, which I would consider the expensive route. What I did was instead of splicing/tapping into the factory harness, I ordered connectors and pigtail from Toyota to splice/tap into. This is what I would consider a safe alternative just in case you need to do any warranty work and can unplug the pigtail and plug the factory plug back in. The plugs and wires themselves cost about 100 and this is why I would consider the expensive route. Also you would need to solder the pigtails together and heat shink it. Here are some picture and part numbers just in case you as well wanted to go this route.