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FOUND IT! Post lift clunking and knocking.

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by jtweezy, Dec 23, 2015.

  1. Apr 6, 2016 at 9:08 AM
    #441
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    I already posted the part. It's also linked at the bottom of the page in "Products Discussed in this thread" It's a 2 pack, one for each side
     
    12TRDTacoma likes this.
  2. Apr 6, 2016 at 9:13 AM
    #442
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    It contributed to some of the clacking due to the fact that it is not applying pressure at the top of the pad and only the bottom during braking. Some of it has to do with the fact that the pad retaining pins went dry as well, but if the system is not complete like it is from the factory then it will cause problems down the road like my said clacking. It's mostly a combination of the two.

    Raybestos H15506A
    OR
    Carlson H4749
    OR
    Dorman HW13003
     
  3. Apr 6, 2016 at 9:19 AM
    #443
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Oh and one more thing. I'm going on week two or three of running it with the new pads and the extra clip. No audible clack or noise whatsoever from the brake pads during forward and reverse functions. I like a quiet truck! :thumbsup:
     
  4. Apr 6, 2016 at 9:30 AM
    #444
    alphabravo

    alphabravo Well-Known Member

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    I just picked mine up on Amazon :D
     
  5. Apr 6, 2016 at 10:42 AM
    #445
    HB Taco

    HB Taco Well-Known Member

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    Okay thanks. I think I'm going to get new rotors as well. I had the brake judder had them turned which helped for a while but the problem is back anytime you hit the brakes over 50mph. Have you guys had that problem ie vibration / judder? Also how are the wagner pads? That's cheap. Maybe I should spend some $$ on good parts?
     
  6. Apr 6, 2016 at 10:55 AM
    #446
    12TRDTacoma

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    Brake judder is caused by excessive rust on the rotor hats and hub face. If you take a wire brush and periodically clean them up every 10K or so or at every tire rotation you will have no problems. The reason the rotors will judder and give you brake shake is due to uneven brake pad bed in deposits. Ceramic material pads are notorious for unevenly wearing and causing excessive material deposits on rotors due to overheating them, which is easy to do even in everyday driving.

    I highly advise against turning the rotors on these trucks, as doing so will reduce their ability to withstand heat cycles and they will warp. Brand new, however, assuming you went OE or Brembo/ Centric blank rotors they will last you a very long time. Given that you peridocally do a rust clean up.

    Don't go cheap on pads or rotors at that. You will be complaining about it later on. Go OE or go EBC Yellows and you will be surprisingly pleased with their improved stopping power over OE. Even when utilizing blank rotors.

    Buy once, cry once.
     
  7. Apr 6, 2016 at 2:17 PM
    #447
    siderman

    siderman Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Guys! this old man appreciates the info/fix, got to pick and choose my chores under the truck these days and this will be worth it. I'll be sure to grease those pins while there too. Sometimes getting back up is the hard part lol.
     
  8. Apr 6, 2016 at 5:06 PM
    #448
    99TacoDriver

    99TacoDriver Well-Known Member

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    It all depends on what your willing to spend...I have no issues with my Wagner pads and they came with retention clips. Apparently the other more expensive brands do not come with the retention Springs.
    Im pretty sure my pads had two retention clips on the pads before I changed them. Granted that I did buy the truck used with 50k miles so there is a chance the previous owner added the other clip...who knows
     
  9. Apr 30, 2016 at 5:56 AM
    #449
    siderman

    siderman Well-Known Member

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    Ordered the all 3 springs mentioned above, was cheap enough, one set is bigger than the others but mixed them up and dont know which, duh. But unfortunatly after installing the 2nd set I still get the clack. Just my bad luck I guess. BTW my Taco is a '13 and only 14K so my pads arent worn. Bummer.
     
  10. May 11, 2016 at 4:12 PM
    #450
    1rooster

    1rooster TACOMA31750

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    BREAKING NEWS!!







    It's been two months since Iv tack welded my bushing into place and Not a single pop, clank, Jank, tick, or squeak.

    Best two months of my life!
     
    alphabravo, jtweezy[OP] and Arcticelf like this.
  11. May 11, 2016 at 5:51 PM
    #451
    Arcticelf

    Arcticelf Well-Known Member

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    Add this to the list of solutions:)
     
  12. May 11, 2016 at 7:49 PM
    #452
    jtweezy

    jtweezy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Haha, I've long forgotten about my knocking noise!
     
    1rooster[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. May 27, 2016 at 11:34 PM
    #453
    Loco38SUP

    Loco38SUP Well-Known Member

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    Mine seemed to clack worse after I installed the second spring. The noise did go away after I installed new brake pads though. The clunk I have is still there...I suspect its the lower control arms.

    RJM
     
  14. Jul 10, 2016 at 2:42 PM
    #454
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    I just had a run in with Energy 8.2116G spring bushing kit, except I was trying to use the shackle bushings... That was a lesson.. The shackle bushings are supposed to be smaller diameter than the spring eye bushings..
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/energy-rear-shackle-bushing-failure.440578/
     
  15. Jul 10, 2016 at 4:40 PM
    #455
    jtweezy

    jtweezy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That's odd. I had no issues whatsoever getting the bushings into the leaf spring eyes...front and rear. I didn't change out my shackle bushings, though. Are you sure you got them all right? All 6 pairs come in the same bag/box...so I just paired them up by how they looked and 8 of them looked the same, while 4 were different. I assumed the 4 odd ones out were the shackle bushings, so I left them in the box.
     
  16. Jul 10, 2016 at 4:42 PM
    #456
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    I did not use the spring eye bushings. I was just trying to use the shackle bushing. They're all the same diameter but they are numbered different.
     
  17. Jul 11, 2016 at 9:09 AM
    #457
    alphabravo

    alphabravo Well-Known Member

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    Interesting, I'm still getting short sharp clicks/pops which I think are coming from my Whiteline LCA bushings which don't have the toothed contacts like the OEM ones do. Also it sounds like my Energy Suspension bushings in the main forward leaf spring mounts could be popping.
     
  18. Jul 25, 2016 at 7:22 PM
    #458
    vrod671

    vrod671 The Okayest Member

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    After driving around for about a year with the clunk/clanks when braking and turning, I finally got rid of it.

    I bought aftermarket LCA/UCA bushings, new top hats, and the ECGS bushing thinking either one of those would fix it. I was wrong.

    Prior to my OME lift I had installed in October of last year, I had a leveling kit with the diff drop on my truck. After getting my truck back from the OME install is when the noises started. It drove me nuts every single day, I even went over every suspension component multiple times, but nothing worked.

    I had the diff drop removed this past Saturday, and BAM!!!! clunk/clanks completely gone. I don't see how the OME kit would've had an effect on it, but it's gone and I sleep peacefully now.
     
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  19. Jul 26, 2016 at 3:43 AM
    #459
    Arcticelf

    Arcticelf Well-Known Member

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    I just replaced my hubs, and the noise seems to have gone away. More to follow.
     
  20. Jul 26, 2016 at 6:22 AM
    #460
    la0d0g

    la0d0g Its 4 o’clock somewhere

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    The ol' diff drop strikes again!
     
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