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Prinsu Access Cab Install

Discussion in 'PrInSu Design Studio' started by GHOST SHIP, Mar 16, 2016.

  1. Jul 28, 2016 at 9:42 AM
    #21
    DaveEli

    DaveEli Well- Known Member

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    I dying to get mine installed. But the heat is holding me back. Don't think it's ever going to break.
     
  2. Jul 28, 2016 at 9:49 AM
    #22
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    You've had the rack for almost 3 weeks! I'd be itching to get it done as well. If it's any affirmation that you need to get it done ASAP, the added shade from the crossbars will also help keep the cab of your truck slightly cooler. It should give you some relief from the heat. Wait for the evening, grab a buddy and a six pack, order a pizza and get to work.
     
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  3. Jul 28, 2016 at 10:23 AM
    #23
    DaveEli

    DaveEli Well- Known Member

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    I an ashamed of myself. I'll try to man up and get it done
     
  4. Jul 28, 2016 at 10:32 AM
    #24
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    It really isn't that hard once it's up there an lined up. Drilling makes people nervous, understandably so. It'll probably take you longer to put all your tools away than mount the rack itself. Just make sure to measure twice, drill once.
     
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  5. Jul 28, 2016 at 4:08 PM
    #25
    DaveEli

    DaveEli Well- Known Member

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    Actually it is the heat that is holding me up.
    Drilling does make me a little nervous, but that's not what has me hesitant. I am going to punch holes in the weather stripping. I am trying to figure out how to get the spacers, sealant, stripping, and the rack installed without screwing it up. Could really make a mess. Want to do it right.
     
  6. Jul 28, 2016 at 4:16 PM
    #26
    GHOST SHIP

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    Gotcha. The best way pople have found is to use the punch set from Amazon. Gets your holes perfect.
    https://www.amazon.com/SE-791LP-Heavy-Duty-12-Piece-Hollow/dp/B000KE17JO?ie=UTF8
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...f-racks-bs-thread.317754/page-18#post-8670146
     
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  7. Jul 28, 2016 at 4:25 PM
    #27
    DaveEli

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    Got the punch set and every thing else we'll need. Just feel like I'll be going crazy trying to get the weatherstripping and rack mounted before the sealant starts to set up.
     
  8. Jul 28, 2016 at 4:31 PM
    #28
    GHOST SHIP

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    No need to try and do it all at once. Punch the holes and replace the weatherstripping before you put down the silicone. Once the holes are punched they'll actually leave you a perfect well to fill with silicone and you won't have to worry about smudging or smearing it when you place the spacers, or having the spacers move out of place while you se the rack on top.
     
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  9. Jul 28, 2016 at 4:51 PM
    #29
    DaveEli

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    Damn that's a great idea, hadn't even occurred to me to do that. Any other good ideas I haven't thought of. Thanks, I really appreciate your help.
     
  10. Jul 28, 2016 at 4:52 PM
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    GHOST SHIP

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    :thumbsup: We're here to help eachother. That's what TW is all about.
     
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  11. Jul 28, 2016 at 4:58 PM
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    DaveEli

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    Amen, to that.:thumbsup:
     
  12. Jul 28, 2016 at 5:06 PM
    #32
    little squirt

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    Nice write up, very similar to what I did for my light bar mount. Be careful and mindful of the depth you drill. I got 3 holes done good and the last one I was in a hurry and actually went through my headliner...LOL Not very noticeable from the inside thank goodness. Maybe put some electric tape on drill bit so once you punch through you will stop where you wrapped the electric tape above the tip of the drill bit. I think I saw a side curtain airbag in there too, watch out for that as well.
     
  13. Jul 28, 2016 at 5:25 PM
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    GHOST SHIP

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    I mentioned those in the first post. The headliner is actually a couple inches away from the roof sheet metal so there is some room there if the drill bit gets away from you, but I would still use a drill stop or as I have stated before, a uni-bit. The side curtain airbag was closest to the center mount on this truck, which I also mentioned. All these things are worth repeating to prevent potentially expensive damage to your truck. The kind of thing you kick yourself for because you know it could have been avoided if you just take your time and go slow.
     
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  14. Jul 28, 2016 at 5:25 PM
    #34
    DaveEli

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    I am planning on taking out the headliner to do mine. I don't want all that drill shrapnel, and silicone residue up there. Also going to Dynamat while I'm at it. And check for leaks.
     
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  15. Jul 28, 2016 at 5:26 PM
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    GHOST SHIP

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    DaveEli[QUOTED] likes this.
  16. Jul 28, 2016 at 5:37 PM
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    DaveEli

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  17. Sep 5, 2016 at 4:19 PM
    #37
    DaveEli

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    Finally got my dual battery install done this weekend. Now on to the rack. I was playing with a couple of the extra plusnuts I ordered. Had a hell of a time. What's the secret? One spun and another one, I messed up the threads. Never got the plusnuts to spread evenly.
    I drilled a hole where I had to drive the plusnuts in when they hit the ribs. i was using slightly less than 1/8" sheet metal.
    How thick is the roof metal?
    My pucker factor has risen 10 times.
     
  18. Sep 5, 2016 at 7:28 PM
    #38
    GHOST SHIP

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    I'm not exactly sure how thigh the roof sheet metal is, but in the channel where you are placing the nutserts, the sheet metal is double layered where it is spot welded together. You should be fine. The burrs on the back of the drilled hole may help keep the nutsert from spinning, but I really can't say for sure. With our install, we didn't have any of them spin or have a problem clamping in place. Did you clean the burrs off your test piece?:notsure:
     
  19. Sep 6, 2016 at 4:36 AM
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    DaveEli

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    Maybe the metal I was using wasn't as thick as the channel in the truck. Weren't to many burrs on the test piece. Maybe I tightened them to much. How did you know when to stop tightening?
    I may use rivet nuts instead of the plusnuts. Easier to install. And I already have them. Not really comfortable with the plusnuts.
     
  20. Sep 6, 2016 at 7:44 AM
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    GHOST SHIP

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    The rivnuts are a little finicky. You don't want to overtorque them because you can and will strip the threads out of them. We found that out the hard way after we botched one. I had originally thought "tighter is better" so I kept torqueing it down using the supplied install "tool" (really just a bolt with a spacer), but I found I couldn't get a good feel for how tight we were getting. Luckily James had a rivnut installer tool similar to this one:
    https://www.amazon.com/Astro-1442-T..._26?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0ZYEXS5X94DMWAJ6K971
    It made installing the rivnuts way easier. You can feel how much clamping force you were putting on the nut and it was easy to know when to back off. I'm not saying it can't be done with the included tool, just that you have to be more careful. A lot of that will have to be by feel and I can't say how much force you need to add to get a good clamp. I will say that I was surprised how little force it took to get the rivnuts in there nice and snug. My best advice would be to sneak up on it and use less force than you think is necessary. They grip surprisingly well. If it isn't enough clamping force you can always go in and tighten it more as opposed to drilling it out and starting over. By the second one you should have a good feel for how tight they need to be.
     
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