Clutch pedal sticking to floor when trying to bleed

So im having a buddy pump the pedal a couple times then hold it as i release the valve. After i tighten it, the pedal remains stuck to the floor when he releases it. We manually pop the pedal back out, then repeat the bleeding process having to reset the pedal by hand everytime after i close the valve. Everytime i release the valve i heard a little hiss.

I bled the all the fluid out like this until it was clear.

Not sure if its related but the reservoir on the master cylinder is a little loose but otherwise the clutch operates fine as far as im aware.

Should i be concerned about this?

 

No concern. If you look under the dash you will see that the clutch pedal has spring assist. This spring helps those little people push the clutch. This way they can use a truck worthy pressure plate and keep it soccer mom friendly.

 

does it work normally after the reset?

 

Did you change both Master and Slave Cylinder??

So place you have either a poor connection allowing air in or if you did not go with Aisin parts failed out of the box

 

you still have air in the lines.

keep pumping.

 

I have, for years, did the pump and dump system of bleeding. I then went to harbor freight and bought a 30 dollar vacuum bleeder. Made life so much easier.

 

This one?

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive-Products/715/0260/10002/-1
The one I use for all jobs. Been beating on this kit for quite some time with many brake jobs and hyd clutch jobs also. For the home diy once-in-awhile guy probably a bit to much. But it makes a steady consistent pressure bleed a easy affair for 1 person. Alot of folks don't bleed until clear fluid runs,,good work on that,,very important. Brownish contaminated fluid out,,fresh in and flowing.

Reads like the pedal return spring could use a refresh soon, but don't count out a wayward air bubble trapped somewhere.

 

Try the rebleed first,,just to check and make sure. The BPV sits high on the chassis, so you might,,just might, have a bubble trapped up top.

Here is a awesome link that helps you figure out the psi on your master cylinder,,to find out if it is producing enough force for a given pedal input pressure. Put on your thinking cap.
http://www.joesracing.com/rt-4172-master-cylinder-math.html

 

So something gave out tonight.

Now when i press the clutch pedal, it makes a hiss sound (like air being blown through a small hole) and the clutch pedal sticks to the floor.

I tried gravity bleeding the clutch but it made no difference.

So now im just wondering if its the master or slave?

I noticed the clutch fluid went brown again after just a couple weeks since i bled it. Is that a signal of a bad slave?

The hiss sound and sticking pedal makes me think the master is leaking.

Any insight appreciated. I have to rush tomorrow morning (in 8 hrs) to get the part, install, and bleed before work.

 

I feel your pain on this.

I had similar clutch symptoms (dark fluid right after changing it). Replaced the tired old hose, worked well for a while. Replaced the master cylinder and WOW, nicest clutch I ever drove. Most threads/posts here recommend replacing the slave also (my replacement is still sitting in a box).

If you can get one from the dealer, more power to you. I remember getting an Aisin (much more affordable and available) and it was identical to the one that was replaced. RockAuto had the best price, in a pinch it could be got at a decent auto parts store.

 

Went with aftermarket and it leaks right out of the box.

Took apart my original cylinder and looks like all the gaskets are worn.

Going to order an OEM rebuild kit monday.

 

When I bled my clutch it stuck to the floor too. All was fine though

 

Good call on rebuilding the OEM. I've had good results going this route with other Toyotas.

 

Same here. It's much more dramatic and pronounced than during a standard brake bleed. It drops right to the floor when you press and I have to lift it up manually.

 

I've bled brakes and clutches on many different vehicles BMWs, Corvettes, Infinities, Toyotas,....
I always put a block of wood under the pedal to limit travel while bleeding so I don't rip up the master cylinder seals.

BMWs were the worst, without the block of wood, I had to replace the master cylinder 50% of the time after bleeding.

Why would you want to over-stress the master cylinder by exceeding its normal piston travel range? This is more of a concern for brakes of course.

 

What tools are needed to replace the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder? 10mm or 11mm flair wrench? 12mm socket and pliers?