Diff Locker Trouble

I just attempted doing the "grey wire mod" and I don't know if I did the process wrong or if my locker is just not working, it was having trouble before I attempted the mod, I know ECU knows I pushed the button because the light flashes and I know it doesn't engage because it doesn't go solid, the wheels don't "hop" in a dirt lot or pavement lot, and I don't hear or feel it engage, any info will be appreciated thanks guys

 

Would it lock at all before you attempted the grey wire mod?

It's normal for it to take a few seconds (maybe several) to engage after pressing the button, everything has to be lined up for the locker to engage or it will blink until that happens. Moving the wheel side to side seems to help.

Sometimes mine will engage right after I push the button, other times I have to drive forward a few feet or several before it will make it's notorious "clack" and engage. If yours wasn't engaging at all before the grey wire mod, sounds like the locker itself my need some trouble-shooting. If the dash is blinking I assume it's receiving the signal so it unfortunately might be an issue with the locker itself. Hopefully someone else here has some experience with it and can help out

 

Yes it would engage but it would still takes forever, any ideas for what I could lube up or clean to make it work better?

 

did you try rolling forward at all?

 

If you read the first post you would know that I did in both dirt and on pavement

 

Remove the actuator motor from the axle, clean out the crap/junk, re-lube the actuator and reinstall. I don't have the fsm on me, but IIRC white lithium grease is what should be used.

 

From the factory the actuators are not very weatherproof. The motor bell has only a super thin o-ring. The bell is steel and the housing is aluminum, add electricity/water/salt and you have a recipe for corrosion. The aluminum halves of the actuator body are not sealed at all. Some variants do have an o-ring but add a smear of RTV for good measure. Then there is the "pocket" between the actuator and the diff that looks like it was designed to catch and hold corrosive debris.

The FSM only goes as far as actuator removal/replacement, no internal stuff at all. There is a specific procedure to install and index/preload the actuator drive gear to the rack gear.
A quick search on this and other forums should reveal several write ups for freshening up the actuator. If you have experience with this type of device it's fairly intuitive, just little parts and things like armature brushes/springs that need to be tied back for assembly. Keep an eye out for a tiny ball at each end of the armature shaft/worm gear. They are thrust bearings and are easily lost when wiping away the old grease. I recommend using some RTV on the motor o-ring and on the actuator body halves then painting the heck out of it once installed. If you can't find the write ups I'll see if I can dig one up.
Water intrusion and lack of use are the major cause of these things failing and it's fairly common. Once properly sealed they are pretty reliable. I pulled/lubed/sealed mine when it was new and have not had an issue since. I had it off and apart as PM a few years ago and it was like new inside.

This is the actuator R+R procedure, mostly the second page. The diff and the actuator need to be in the locked position for install. The diff can be locked manually by pushing the rack gear (inside diff) with a screwdriver.
I use a 12 volt source to run/test the actuator but you must be very careful of shorts. The FSM recommended 1.5v is just to slow and will not move the actuator if things are the least bit sticky.

One more thing, the actuator has a breather hose. Make sure it is in good shape, it runs up into the frame.

 

Very nice detailed write up above. Sticky worthy if you ask me. It's been 10+ years since I rebuilt mine on my 80 series Cruiser. Nice work on explaining it all, dirty pool.