Wheel alignment specs

I have a 16 tacoma with stock coils and bilstein 5100 set at third notch up 1.75 inches and a obe inch block in the back with 5100 shocks. Im putting in lite racing upper control arms and want to know if there is a spec for my alignment that somebody can give me so i can compare it to the alignment shop specs. Any info would be appreciated. Im running 265 70 17 load C bfg ko2 on aftermarket wheels. TRD Sport 4 door long box.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/attachm...-alignment_adjustment-2016-tacoma-pdf.921335/

 

What would my truck spec be on this chart? Alot of info in there

 

I think the general consensus is post lift you will want numbers around:

Toe - 0
Camber - 0
Caster 2.5 - 3

With the LR UCA's you should very easily be able to achieve 3 degrees of caster if the alignment shop knows how to properly adjust them.

PS still loving those Husky mats, thanks for the great deal. How do you like the KO2's? I just ordered a set myself with the exact same specs as what you have. Probably have them installed later this week.

 

Nevermind. I didn't see you were lifted.

 

Ko2 kick ass. Work amazing in the snow and on the highway in the winter. Thanks for the info

 

The specs should be the same as stock, which is the purpose of the alignment after the lift, which takes the alignment out of spec.

So the printout you refer to will show the max min (range) of each measurement, and if the truck is now in or out

If you want to specify to the tech the numbers you want the vehicle to be set at, you 'might' have to find a shop with a tech smart enough to do that, and/or pay more, as it often takes more time to tweak to personalized numbers.

In general, correct and equal on each side is better, rather than the 'total' being what is correct. And the numbers up2nogood mentions sound about right for a truck. We're not building a magical handling street machine here.

 

Alignment requirements change with a lift and changes in contact patch.
Much is said about castor, camber, and toe.
I agree, 'the numbers' have been the consensus.

But once you take into account SAI and scrub radius, things change.

Let's take toe for example.
Our trucks spec positive toe(a.k.a. toe-in)across the board.
Why?
Because it has positive scrub.
Increasing positive scrub(wheel offset/spacers) and scrub force(wider, low resistance tires) means you would want even more positive toe.
I got say 0* toe is flat out wrong on these trucks.

I use to run the numbers.
Always wondered, why it wandered...

 

My lite racing UCA showed up yesterday and got an appointment at alignment shop for 8am tomorrow. Going to run them at position D to start and try to get 2.5-3 caster
0 camber
O toe
Should be doable no problem

 

Had to delay the install as the bolts in the stock upper control arm are put in from front to back. Will have to cut the bolt head off and then push it out from front to back. They hit the engine when pushed from back to front. Ordered new bolts from toyota and they will go in easy from back to front.

 

Got the lite racing UCA installed and wow what a difference in handling now. Truck drives like a dream. The guys at CIC in Kelowna got my alignment specs bang on. Position C on the arms and adjusted the rest on the lower control arm. The alignment guy let me pick his brain and watched him set it up.

 

Got the uca set to d position. 0 toe 0 camber and 2.3 caster drivers 2.8 caster passenger. Drives great and no rubbing

 

really like my LR UCA other than they seem to squeak all the time. I was wondering about putting self tapping grease zerks on each end to grease the neoprene or urethane bushings. Has anyone done this?