Truck Cap/Tailgate Lock Wiring

I bought a kit from Canopy Locking Systems out of Australia for my Leer cap with side windoors.

The kit includes brackets and 6 lock actuators (2 for each window). They told me the actuators draw 2A at stall. When I install these I'm also planning to install an electric tailgate lock, assuming the tailgate lock also draws ~2A the total draw of all 7 actuators could be up to 14A.

I want to wire these so they run off of the trucks lock/unlock circuit so I don't have any extra switches or anything, but I have no idea what gauge of wiring is used for the trucks wiring. I know the tailgate lock kit comes with a Red quick splice so I would assume its 18-22 AWG, I would plan to splice into these wires as close to the plug as possible to reduce the wire length, but more wondering if I should be putting in a relay to run the locks or if it'll be okay as the lock/unlock is just a short pulse.

 

For wire gauge I would use this. Depending on how far your running it (under the truck and what not) bigger wire may be better (where I get my wire there is no difference in proce between 16-12 gauge wire, so I usually just get 14 or 12 for everything).

As for a relay, yes you could use one to keep the system a bit safer, but generally they are used to keep a high load off of a switch for instance. As long as the stock wiring that your tapping into puts out the current you need without blowing a fuse you won't need a relay. If it doesn't use the relay and then you can run power from a 12v source (make sure it's fused) and the stock wiring can run the relay. So press lock button, stock wiring opens relay, battery source can go to new actuators. I wouldn't increase the fuse capacity of the stock system.

Hope that helps and mostly hope it made sense.

Edit : the stock wiring is probably 22 gauge. Everything they use in the dash is tiny.

 

Yeah I'm not too worried about picking what gauge I run under the truck, that's no big deal... More worried about burning out the wiring in the trucks factory harness, or the relay. The trucks door lock fuse is listed as a 20A but I don't know what the factory locks draw, I'm nervous about adding ~14A on top of what the factory circuit is running and burning out the wiring or damaging the relay.

As the door locks are run on 2 wires and the polarity is reversed for lock/unlock I figure I would need 2 relays each with diode to control getting the correct polarity to the tailgate.

 

In that case just run a relay. Most are rated for 40 amps so your fine there. Just fuse the 12v source (battery or add a fuse in dash) going into the relay and your good to go. With the relay there isn't going to be much draw on the stock system so you should be fine there.

Yeah sounds like two relays will be needed.

Sounds like you got it handled

 

Hopefully, thanks!

And now that I think about it I don't need diodes, just 2 relays.

 

All at same time...