StAndrew's Build

Ahhh my tubro kit is looking good in there.

 

Don't mind wiring too much. But laying down, under the counsel, soldering and shrinking, takes wiring to a whole new level of pain.

She's getting some exercise finally! When I get my new ball joints and alignment she'll be getting a lot more!

 

Lol!

 

For everyone planning on running this kit, found this nice little tidbit. Putting it on my 2do list.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=up2qSlarkFM

 

Why did he move it forward? Video didn't seem to show much but his wide band at idle, an extension cord on his 02, and the new location.

 

He speculates (probably true) that the o2 is positioned too far back to get a good reading as the exhaust gasses are too cool by then. This causes a bad read by the ECU causing fluctuating idle. Mine still fluctuates between 11 and 18 at first startup but after driving and warm up, the fluctuation goes down and settles out, sometime not fluctuating at all at idle. I always thought it was a vacuum leak but he might be right here.

I think he positions it a little to close to the turbo, I'll probably reposition mine to just aft of the wideband.

 

"O" shaped TB gasket ordered to replace the "D" shaped gasket. Not sure what Toyota was thinking there.

http://www.top4runners.com/ja/cleantb.html

 

Yea odd. Its required with the SC.

 

TRD says with the D, you loose ~.5 - 1 PSI. I always thought it was a shield to make sure that the vacuum fitting where the PCV hooks up doesn't see too much vacuum. Not sure why but always wondered about grinding it down...

 

So still figuring out this idle issue. Had a few minor exhaust leaks I got fixed. Found some very minor vacuum leaks but fixing that didn't help much. AFR's are still swinging violently between 11 and 17; engine is surging and falling at idle and light load

Next step is re-position the stock AFR sensor a little closer to the turbo. How the kit is designed, the sensor is in the stock position but with 3 in pipes, by the time the exhaust gets to the sensor, the exhaust gasses will be too cool to get a proper measurement. Hopefully moving the stock O2 will fix this.

Basically this but my AFR's are much more voilent; maybe because my exhaust is 3" all the way through.

 

Are you certain that there is/are not hoses routed in such a way which is causing an unintentional "vacuum leak"?

Is any part of your PCV system, from the crank case, attached to the intake manifold or charge piping?

 

No, PCV is completely isolated. I got it smoke tested and found a lot of minor leaks from all the couplings. The guy just ran the smoke test and tightened all the couplings up until they stopped leaking. I need new couplings as they were starting to come apart from the stress. Cheap ass shit.

Helped a lot but not quite eliminated the AFR hunt. The Toyota AFR sensor is designed for 2.25" exhaust and positioned way down the exhaust. I think some of the guys on here are getting away with it because they aren't running straight 3" exhaust all the way out. I'm going to move the sensor up and also wrap up the down pipe to keep the heat trapped so I can get a better reading on the stock sensor. That should fix the idle.

 

Making some progress.

Did those couplings come with the kit? Have you ordered new ones yet? Mine from www.extremepsi.com (their brand) have lasted since I had the remote mount turbo kit on. That was around 5 years ago. They are 4 or 6 ply. Super pleased with that investment.

 

Yeah, they came with the CX kit. Not ordered yet, all purchases for the truck are on hold until some work can be done on the house (gutters and re-slope the backyard so we don't get a lake under the house every time it rains.

 

O_O

Definitely get those things fixed first.

 

Man I need to start posting here more, customtacos is dead and yotatech doesn't have a lot of performance enthusiasts. I updated my thread on the o2 relocation. I still throw a p1133 for a slow responding o2 once every couple of weeks if I do a lot of in town driving, and AFR swings for a few moments right after going into closed loop, but smooths out. Before relocating, I could not even tune closed loop in my truck because the AFR swings were so violent. I am also running full 3" exhaust. 3" cutout, 3" hi flow cat and the biggest 3" Magnaflow they make. It's like stock quiet- beautiful to my ears. Anyway, the stock wideband o2 just doesn't like the bigger exhaust.

 

Yeah, customtaco's is dead. Didn't know you had 3". A lot of other members have the Cx kit on here and they don't seem to have any issues but I'm pretty sure they have 2.5" or stock cat back so I'm guessing the exhaust gets backed up right around the sensor.

Your AFR's didnt seem that bad in your vid. I know mine are terrible, between 12 and 17+. I'm going to put mine right past the turn down so the exhaust is almost blowing on the sensor. Even where yours is mounted, due to laminar flow, at idle you may still get bad reads.

 

I wish I repositioned mine a little better. I may still have it moved again. I don't know if you've noticed but the people who have no problems with the kit do not have a wideband in bank one either from what I've seen.

 

No didn't notice that. I'm may also wrap that pipe to keep the gasses hot.

 

So quick update. Moved my stock AFR to fix a persistent AFR surge and fall at idle and light load. Runny %90 better but still a fluctuation at idle however instead of fluctuating between 10 and 18+, its now between 14 and 15ish. The engine used to surge and fall almost to stall then surge again.

Also wrapped the down pipe as it is so close to so many things that don't like heat. The brake lines and A/C in particular.

I got a heat reflecting blanket for the A/C line as it gets real close to the header's up pipe.