Gray223's "The Resurrection" 98 rebuild build

Brake kit was 275 from Amazon. I only paid 150 cause I had a bunch of gift cards . The hard lines and bracket was 50 from LCE. The stainless brake lines came with the front and rear, my dad bought them when we were just putting the truck together, so not sure where there from or cost.

 

This thing with the retrofit source is getting ridiculous! They keep making guesses on what products I have based on old emails from orders and that's why they sent me 3 of the wrong drivers for my halos..... And they decide to keep sending me them to an old address after they send me something to a correct address! Finally I thought we got it all figured out and what do they do.....send the stupid drivers to that same old address. Now there wondering how I got my halos cause they don't see anything about me buying the kind I have from them based on emails..... I wouldn't be contacting them if I didnt buy from them in the first place!

 

Well TRS is going to send a driver to the correct address. Hopefully it's the correct one.

 

Well TRS sent me the wrong drivers again... You would think after 6 drivers they would get it right by now. Only good thing is, they do turn the halos on. But when hooked up to the xchange drivers, they do not turn off when the headlights are on.

Maybe 7th time is the charm? After dealing with this for 3 months I'm getting a little pissed.

 

Link to kit?

What brackets did you need?

 

I'll get you the links tmrw, my internet is sucking right now. If you go to brake accessories on LCE there is a left and right tundra brake bracket. Then there is also a left and right tundra hard brake line. You need the both the bracket and hard line if you aren't using a banjo bolt.

 

Good to know. Didn't know about the brackets. Got wheelers steel lines coming.

Found the brakes for 270 before cores on eBay.

 

Only bracket I'm seeing is for the brake lines themselves. Shouldn't need that.

 

I didn't need a bracket. Btw, if you get the calipers off a sequoia they tend to go cheaper than the Tundra but the bolt mounts are different/shallow and your bolts bottom out. I used an extra thick washer but a shorter bolt will work too.

Brakets: http://www.lceperformance.com/Tundra-Brake-Line-Bracket-Left-Side-OEM-Toyota-P-p/1055110.htm

I think the wheeler's lines have a way to secure them to the stock brackets.

 

You may not need them with wheelers lines. I just know with the lines I have I had to get all that stuff from LCE.

Here is the kit I got.

Callahan CCK11988 FRONT Powder Coated Red [2] Calipers + [2] Rotors + Quiet Low Dust [4] Ceramic Pads Performance Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOBMFAY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_2EoZxbPXNG5WC

 

Guess what..... actually wheeled it....sorta lol. I just went to our land and set up trail cams while also making a trail my truck could fit though from one end to the other, so it was very mild but still got her flexed out a couple times. Anyway I got to finally see what I built go to work! And I was quick pleased with the performance, everything worked well. But my rear setup needs changed for sure. Both shocks had rubs spots where the tire made contact multiple time. Guess that's gonna be the winter project.

 

So I can get the halo to come on now but wont turn off when hooked up to the xchange driver. TRS says I dont have the xchange drivers wired up correctly or there a misplaced wire.... well there wrong because the inputs and outputs are the same as my drivers side xchange driver and it works.

The xchange drivers have 2 grounds, and 2 other out puts. One output is hot when key is on, they are both hot when the headlights are on. Now my driver on my drivers side has 3 inputs, one ground, and 2 other inputs. Only 1 input and ground turn the halo on. When both inputs are hot the halo turns off.

The new driver TRS sent me (the sixth now) also has 3 inputs, one ground and 2 other inputs. But when they both get hot, it does not turn off. So if both outputs on the xchange driver go hot when the headlights are on....how in the world is it suppose to turn off??????

 

Did both rear wheel bearings this weekend and went ahead and put on new rear shoes and drums since one side was soaked in oil and we had them just laying around forever.

 

How bad was it? I've got to do my rear seals and bearings here in the next weeks? I don't have access to a press so I'll have to take it to a shop or Toyota to do that

 

Not too bad. Grinding the first retainer off was kinda a pain. Also had to make one of these....

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyota-axle-bearing-puller-tool-plate-style-yt-p71.html

Can't believe they charge 320$ for a pipe and 2 plates of steel....

 

Yeah I will be taking the axle housing to a shop since nobody has a press locally. But I've seen some guys fab their own up

 

TRS sent me the wrong drivers again. Maybe I just have some kind of magic halos that only works with the driver they are not intended for. But decided to also work fine when I bought them with the right drivers.

 

Esay fix for this whole deal. Ebay halos lol, or a buy some off member of tacoworld

 

Yeah cause if the drivers on them would go bad it would be souch easier to get new ones.... Doubt it. Lol.

Don't really want to get new halos cause that means taking the headlight apart. And not sure if I could even get my shroud off to attach new ones. Because I think the shrouds are JB welded on.

The halos work fine. TRS just won't send me the correct driver. My driver's side one works. But they won't send my the driver thats on that side because technically it's not suppose to be used on my halos. But it works fine.

Oh and I found out the jb weld on my grill broke...

 

So just order the part number of the one on your drivers side? They can't stop you from buying something from them...that would just be stupid.