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Led pod wiring harness questions

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Sterling_vH111, Aug 19, 2016.

  1. Aug 19, 2016 at 2:07 PM
    #1
    Sterling_vH111

    Sterling_vH111 [OP] Go do something real instead.

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    Electricians!:

    I am trying to wire up a rear led pod for a bed light. I have lost the switch the wiring harness came with (didn't like the style anyhow), and had bought a replacement toggle switch. I hadn't realized that the switch I bought had only 2 prongs not 3.

    My questions are:

    Why does the harness need 3 wires on the switch? What do they each do for the relay/light?

    Can I use the 2 prong toggle switch I already bought somehow?

    And if not does someone know of a 3 prong toggle that looks like this image.jpg and will fit in a drilled out blank like the ones to the left of the steering wheel. That is where I had retrofitted the switch I have already bought.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Aug 19, 2016 at 2:18 PM
    #2
    Sterling_vH111

    Sterling_vH111 [OP] Go do something real instead.

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    Putting this back on the front page after 9 min.:D Because I don't want to start electrical fires:fingerscrossed:
     
  3. Aug 19, 2016 at 7:33 PM
    #3
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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    'cause the switch that came with the harness has
    1: A fused power source to the switch.
    2: Actuation power back to the relay from the switch.
    3: Ground. For the switch light.
     
  4. Aug 19, 2016 at 7:36 PM
    #4
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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    What color wires does the harness have? White, Blue and Black?
     
  5. Aug 19, 2016 at 7:40 PM
    #5
    Sterling_vH111

    Sterling_vH111 [OP] Go do something real instead.

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    Red w/ inline fuse and white from the relay, and a black that is grounded to chassis.
     
  6. Aug 19, 2016 at 7:42 PM
    #6
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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    So connect the red to one side of switch and the white to the other. Ground not used with your switch. Tape it off in case you change the switch to a lighted one.
     
  7. Aug 19, 2016 at 7:58 PM
    #7
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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    Got a pic?...seems there's something missing
     
  8. Aug 20, 2016 at 9:40 AM
    #8
    Sterling_vH111

    Sterling_vH111 [OP] Go do something real instead.

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    I can take a pic of the relay and other stuff soon. The switch I have is exactly the one in pic in OP.

    I tried what you said, and then red got real hot immediately when light turned on and actually started to melt a little.
     
  9. Aug 20, 2016 at 11:48 AM
    #9
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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    send pic of the relay and wiring to it...both ends of the harness...
     
  10. Aug 24, 2016 at 1:05 PM
    #10
    Sterling_vH111

    Sterling_vH111 [OP] Go do something real instead.

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    @caribe makaira

    Here is the relay
    The small red wire goes from the battery to the switch, no fuse.
    The small white wire goes from the relay to the switch.
    The larger red wire goes from battery to relay with inline fuse,.
    Large white and black wires that go into loom, lead out to the light.
    The one large black wire is grounded as seen in 3rd pic.
    The third (black wire) for the switch is grounded inside the cab.

    This is how I set it up per the diagram that the wiring harness came with.

    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

    Apologies for the delayed response, I had to take care of school for a couple days.
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2016
  11. Aug 24, 2016 at 1:12 PM
    #11
    Sterling_vH111

    Sterling_vH111 [OP] Go do something real instead.

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    original switch is came with was 30 amp, so I matched it 30 amps with the new switch as well.
     
  12. Aug 24, 2016 at 1:45 PM
    #12
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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    You should fuse the small red wire going from battery to switch. Does the switch and wire still get hot?
     

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