2000 Tacoma wheel interchangeability...

I want to install some late model (2014-2016) Tacoma wheels and tires on my son's 2000 PreRunner. The only difference I see is that the newer wheels have a larger center bore (100.6 on my truck v. 106.1 on the later wheels). Is this a problem? Can I just buy some hub rings to take up the slack?

Used this site to cross-check...

 

Not sure about those center bore measurements you listed but many 1st Gen guys have bolted 2nd and 3rd Gen Tacoma wheels right up with no issues or mods done. I currently am running 2nd Gen(05-15) offroad wheels on my '99. They fit great, no issues

 

Some threads on the subject for pics and more info
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/pics-of-your-1st-gen-with-2nd-gen-wheels.434763/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/will-6-lug-2nd-3rd-gen-factory-wheels-fit-our-1st-gens.446245/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-taco-wheels-on-a-1st-gen-taco.385661/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-wheels-on-1st-gen-tacoma-noob-question.358445/

 

http://www.wheelsupport.com/toyota-bolt-patterns/

99% of Toyota 6-bolt are the same center bore. I think the 5-bolt can be different depending on the year?

 

I wouldn't bother since the stock lug nuts will center the wheels into the hub.

 

Is it true that when balancing certain wheels that instead being mounted on the balancing machine by the hub, that certain wheels have to be mounted on the balancing machine with an adapter that allows you to mount them by the lug nut holes? This is something my shop teacher mentioned to me today since the place I go to says my tires are balanced but as soon as I leave and get on the freeway, I get a vibration between 60 - 75mph. This is getting old and have never heard of mounting them by the lug nut holes before.

 

While I was working at toyota, we would only balance at the lug holes. I would recommend getting a road force balance from a hunters machine to see what is off balance.

 

The place I went to said they did a road force balance and my tires were balanced perfectly but still vibrate as soon as I leave when I get on the freeway. It doesn't do it at lower speeds or on normal roads. It's only on highways & freeways between 60 - 75mph. As soon as I'm going 80 mph it goes away or anything under 55mph. About 6 months ago they gave me 2 new tires and the vibration went away but when they rotated them front to back it started again. So I told them obviously the rear tires that went in the front were bad too. But they said no and that they were up to the requirements of being balanced. So they wouldn't give me all 4 new tires since they said they had to have proof to send back to the manufacturer. I'm just tired of going back every week for the same outcome. Now they even put the new tires they gave me back on the front and the vibration is still there unlike when they first put them on. Like I said it all started when I came back in after the 2 new tires they gave me were installed. I got a new rack, new wheel bearings, CV axles and tie rods and tie rod ends. Only other thing I can think of is maybe the carrier bearing or something like that. The rear doesn't vibrate LOL! But on the freeway sometimes it's the steering wheel that moves back n forth. Other times it's the center console that shakes. I'm through throwing parts at this thing. It does have 246,000 miles though. I have hub centric Spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers but I've had them on over a year and never had any vibrations.

 

Same problem here. Found rims are egged some. I am currently looking for some rims.

 

Having the same problem, just started a couple weeks ago out of the blue. Truck was driving perfect then all of a sudden it shudders around 55 mph. If you guys find the fix post it up, I'll do the same

 

Sorta. But not exactly.

There are hub centric and lug centric wheels/vehicles. Balance machines typically mount hub only, because they use a tapered cone to center the wheel, and the taper accommodates all center bores. To mount by lugs they'd have to have all kinds of adapters for various lug configurations.

Mounting on vehicle can be a different story. If the wheel centerbore is bigger than the hub, you can only mount if you have either adapter rings or tapered lug seats and tapered lugs on the wheel. Using the lug method has to be done with some care/precision, to make sure things are seated properly before torquing. And torquing should be in a crisscross pattern to be sure the wheel seats the hub flat. It's not hard at all, but attention to detail is required.

I ran a little race car many years by this lug mounting method, throwing the adapter rings away after they got annoying changing between race wheels and hub centric street wheels.

If the wheel has flat bottomed lug seats and lugs (many aftermarket wheels do) hubcentric is your only option. If the centerbore is larger than the hub, an adapter is required. If the hub is larger than the centerbore, the wheel can't be used unless there is enough material in the wheel for a machine shop to bore out the wheel to the hub size and not interfere with the lug holes.