1st Gen Suspension Install

Thanks for this write-up. I just completed my new suspension (882's and Dakar with AAL) on my 2004 TRD DC 4X4 and used this as a basis for my install. Below are a few tips/advice to add that may help others. I wished I had taken pictures to help describe but once I got into it I didnt want to stop for pics.

- Make sure you have a grinder. I took the advice from John and bought one prior to this install. I needed it for 1 of the front bolts on the leaf. I also decided to use it on the u-bolts since I wasn't reusing them and the nuts proved to be a bitch to get off a 10 year old truck.

- The rear brake line will need to be disconnected or changed for a new longer one when installing the Dakars with the AAL. It is very tough getting to the upper connection with the flare nut. This was probably the toughest/longest part of the install for me. I eventually had to take the bracket off and remove the clip so I could slide the bracket up the hose so I could actually get wrenchs on the flare. If you dont think you can complete this then get it done before you do your swap.

- Use a c clamp and 2 pieces of wood to install the bushing into the rear shocks. I tried for 15 minutes just pushing them in and wasn't anywhere near getting them in. Perhaps theres a better method?

The rear took me a good solid 8 hours. 2 of them was monkeying around with the rear brake line

- Use your stock jack to push down the UCA to line-up the bottom hole of the front shock. I saw it in another thread when I was researching the install and it worked like a charm. Put the base up in the wheel well and get the other end behind the top spindle nut to keep it from slipping.

- As John said the ratcheting wrenches work great on this. For me I had the stock 14mm but didn't have the 17mm for the OME.

Thanks again John and if anyone has any questions PM as this is all fresh in my head as of 8/4/13

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I am glad that I could help Joe. Post up some before/after pictures of your truck. We would love to see it!

 

Just added

 

Looks fantastic!


I always wanted a cap for my truck.

 

So based on what I read in the OP, I can swap my struts out just by removing the top 3 nuts and the bottom bolt, then slide the strut out?

 

Correct, as long as your replacing it with a whole new strut assembly, very simple.

 

To be clear, the coil spring and shock are mounted together as a single assembly. You can remove and replace the entire assembly very easily: three nuts around the perimeter of the top mount, and the bottom shock bolt on the lower control arm.

However, you cannot replace the shock itself without using a spring compressor to remove it from the coil. Never remove the top center nut on the shock unless you are using a spring compressor. You can rent one or have any decent shop dot his for you.

 

Thanks guys, its a strut for coilover swap so should be easy.

 

Maybe I just had the mechanic fairy blessing my vehicle that day but a complete OME kit took mt 3.5 hours with hand tools and a battery powered impact wrench.

One trick that helped me was to use ratchet straps to hold the axle while swapping the leaf packs. It made locating the axle very easy and ensured that I wouldn't stretch any lines.

 

Thanks for posting this. Will be putting the same kit on mine pretty soon. What were extra things you had to get to do this? While I'm under there, I will be replacing the lower and upper ball joints as well.

 

Is it just me or does the stock coil spring look more "heavy duty" than the new OME one? It looks like less coils but thicker
Just wondering

 

OEM coil rate is around 420lbs. OME 881 coils are 500lbs. Looks are deceiving.

 

I dealt with a lot of rust issues, that slowed things down a bit. I also clearly did not drink enough beer that weekend.

 

OP - did you install a spacer to lower the center driveshaft support bearing?

 

There are a few videos online, specifically of Tacomas, showing how to safely do it on the truck without a spring compressor. With a floor jack supporting the LCA, you unbolt where the LCA connects to the knuckle. 2-4 bolts depending on which generation Tacoma. Don't remove castle nut/ball joint.

Leave the 3 nuts on the top hat alone and instead you can now remove the center nut from the strut. When you lower the jack the spring safely decompresses and the strut rod will lower down into the top hat. Spring tension is removed.

In other words the weight of the truck pushes the spring out, but the spring can only expand when the floor jack does. By the time it's out of the top hat it's no longer under tension.

I have a standard 2-piece spring compressor and have used it twice for older Accords (basically the same design here) but never considered this method until now. I hate using the spring compressor/getting wrench or socket or compressor jammed up ... and these Tacoma coils don't appear to have their coil turns any farther apart than the Hondas do.

Every method takes work, and one potential "gotcha" with this is that the strut rod would just spin and not allow the nut to loosen without using Vise Grips on the rod. You can deal with that scenario easily enough on a workbench but it'd be harder up under the fender well.

 

The no compressor method does not work on a first gen Tacoma. On a second gen, the spindle unbolts from the LCA, allowing the LCA to drop far enough to remove the spring.

 

Just installed my rear OME lift yesterday. It took 2:15 because this thread was so helpful. I am getting a slight clunking noise when turing into driveways or lifting one tire. I havent had a chance to troubleshoot but any ideas where the noise is coming from?
For the shock retainers, does the concave side cup the bushing or face away from it?
I am waiting for the front comonants to come. I am having them pre-assembled.

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nice ! truck look like its ready for the trails

 

Great write up, thx!!

 

@JDMcQ and others. Will this method not work for the 1st gens?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkVLBOnAifc