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AC Clutch Failure - How to fix! (blinking light, squealing)

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by N75, Aug 27, 2016.

  1. Aug 27, 2016 at 5:00 PM
    #1
    N75

    N75 [OP] New Member

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    Hello from upstate NY! I'm a long time VW guy, and have appreciated the massive amount of info out there on taking care of german cars. When I picked up my 2010 Tacoma and had the AC fail a week later due to a suspected clutch, I couldn't find any real write-ups on how to fix. I got sent to an ebay reseller that makes the replacement clutch from a TacomaWorld thread, so I figured I'd give back with some photos of the process. This is a very easy repair task, and it cost $50 for the part - heck of a lot better than having the compressor replaced.

    This is what I used for my 2010 4-cylinder: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262344327300 (FYI I have no relation to the seller, but props to them for making/selling this part when Toyota doesn't even offer it).

    First up, locate your AC compressor - it's the lowest accessory in this pic, drivers side of the engine.

    [​IMG]


    Here's a closeup of the front of the AC clutch and pulley. Nice and rusty. That single 8mm bolt in the center is the only thing you actually need to remove (technically the belt can even stay on, though I popped mine off to make more wiggle room). You can start to see the rubber surround that fails and causes the clutch to make a horrific squealing noise, then the AC light to blink and shut the compressor down.

    [​IMG]


    Now, I skipped taking pics but all I did to get to this point was take the plastic rivits out of the fan shroud (and maybe a bolt on the left near the coolant overflow and one on the right too, this was a few months ago, sorry!) so the shroud was mobile. You do not need to remove it, just leave it where it is but push it toward the motor so you can get to the front of the fan. Remove the 4 nuts (10mm?) that hold the fan blade on, don't mess with the fan clutch, not required!) - you can see in this pic once the fan blades are gone you have a ton of room to get at the front of the compressor.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now grab some vice grips and grab the INNER metal ring of the clutch. You can't hold the outside of it, as the reason this failed is what was "one piece" (two metal discs with rubber bonding them together so the clutch can flex/engage) is now two pieces. You can really jam the vice grips into the rubber, you're replacing the whole thing so whatever you have to do to hold it clutch/compressor from spinning to crack and remove that 8mm bolt.

    [​IMG]


    Here's a pic of the two pieces that come out, and where I had the vice grips attached:

    [​IMG]


    Here's the compressor side of the clutch mating surface, where the magnet is that engages it. Notice the ball of melted rubber :) I hit it with a scotchbright pad then wiped with brake clean. Probably wasn't really necessary and didn't help much anyway.

    [​IMG]


    And the old clutch side mating surface:

    [​IMG]


    Here's new vs. old:

    [​IMG]


    Here's the new clutch about to go in. **Important** - the new clutch came with 4 washers. These are shims to space the clutch out so it can disengage. I knocked the old shims from the failed clutch and there were 4 in there, so I used all 4 new ones when I installed. The spacing is very small, I can't recall but I checked with a feeler gauge once I tightened down and it was maybe .024 or .032, pretty much like gapping a spark plug. Just make sure you use the shims or the compressor isn't going to fully disengage.

    [​IMG]


    And finally, a shot of my truck. Love this thing! Hope these pics help somebody that's sweating and wants their AC back!

    [​IMG]
     
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    #1
    Garin113, UranusHertz, lagbc and 39 others like this.
  2. Aug 28, 2016 at 2:44 AM
    #2
    fixer5000

    fixer5000 the logical one

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    nice write up. welcome to tw too !
     
    pats73 likes this.
  3. Aug 28, 2016 at 3:58 AM
    #3
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Sometimes when I close my eyes, I can't see.

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    A few OE parts from fancy trucks
    Great write up and pics! Thanks for the contribution!

    Great opening post too. :thumbsup:

    So glad to see a valuable contribution rather than the all-too-often questions on leveling kits and tire sizes.
     
    Drainbung, Jessedotcom and Toy4me like this.
  4. Aug 28, 2016 at 4:14 AM
    #4
    jbrnigan

    jbrnigan Well-Known Member

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    +1 - so refreshing!
     
    pats73 likes this.
  5. Aug 28, 2016 at 4:19 AM
    #5
    moondeath

    moondeath Well-Known Member

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    That's one hell of a 1st post. :thumbsup:
     
    Running Board Man likes this.
  6. Aug 28, 2016 at 4:30 AM
    #6
    reg boulette

    reg boulette Well-Known Member

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    I thank you. Very information. I have heard sometimes rust build up affects the A/C clutch as well and can be somewhat fixed by tapping the clutch with a broom handle or other tool.
     
  7. Aug 28, 2016 at 5:40 AM
    #7
    09BlueBeast

    09BlueBeast Well-Known Member

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    But bro seriously how much should I lift my truck!! Lol
     
  8. Aug 28, 2016 at 5:49 AM
    #8
    jibski

    jibski Well-Known Member

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    This is outstanding. You just saved countless people a bunch of time and money. A great addition to the DIYs.
     
  9. Aug 28, 2016 at 6:08 AM
    #9
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    Excellent first post....
     
  10. Aug 28, 2016 at 6:35 AM
    #10
    gabbo2112

    gabbo2112 Well-Known Member

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    Awesome post great pics, thanks for sharing!
     
  11. Sep 2, 2016 at 5:05 PM
    #11
    nachoelias

    nachoelias New Member

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    What does it mean if this same fix helped my A/C be back up and running but the terrible noise persists? (about 75% of the original pre-fix noise persists)
     
  12. Sep 3, 2016 at 7:51 AM
    #12
    N75

    N75 [OP] New Member

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    Then your compressor is probably failing and perhaps your original clutch rubber split, so replacing the clutch is a temporary fix, but I presume there's an underlying issue if you still have noise. The clutch failing is like the sound of the largest serpentine belt you've ever seen slipping. It's a loud, deep, rubber on metal squeal. If you have any other noise it's something else.

    Thanks for the welcome everyone. Glad I could contribute something, sorry I didn't take more pics and and detailed notes!
     
    Manfred likes this.
  13. Apr 5, 2017 at 4:17 PM
    #13
    Jeffch

    Jeffch Well-Known Member

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    Nice!
     
  14. Jul 4, 2017 at 4:46 AM
    #14
    NewfoundlandTaco

    NewfoundlandTaco Well-Known Member

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    Great write up, this diagnosed my problem yesterday. Now for a trip to the junkyard to find a new clutch hub.
     
    709GADE likes this.
  15. Jul 6, 2017 at 12:10 PM
    #15
    Tex-Tac

    Tex-Tac Well-Known Member

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    Installed Overhead Compass and Temperature Display along with outside temperature sensor and wiring; LED lights reverse backup; LED license plate lights; Added GTA Bluetooth Audio kit to stock radio for iphone audio; Spare tire steel braided air hose extension connection to rear bumper; Installed new headlights along with new bulbs PIAA H4 XTreme and for fog lights PIAA H10 XTreme bulbs. Installed new hood with "hood-scoop". Installed Predator Side Steps. Replaced front chrome grill with customized color matched (Desert Sand Mica) grill with added TOYOTA lettering (also in matched color), installed and secured tailgate anti-theft devices. Also installed a new external TPMS monitor for all 4 tires.
    Sub'd
     
  16. Jul 11, 2017 at 5:45 PM
    #16
    ChiefBrody

    ChiefBrody Well-Known Member

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    I can't thank you enough.

    2012 4.0 just turned 60k miles today. A/C went out (blinking A/C light) when I was (3) hours from town. It was working on the drive this morning just fine. No funny noises. No funny smells. It just stopped working out of nowhere. First thing I found after a quick google search was replacing the clutch relay. I stopped at the parts store before heading back home, tried that, and it didn't solve my problem. Drove the (3) hours back home in 90 degree muggy heat.

    Sitting here researching the issue and I found your thread. I just went out and checked the clutch and it's almost gone. I can grab it and wiggle it back and forth about 1-2". The compressor is still spinning freely, so that's good.

    I have the clutch on order. I'll let you know how it goes.

    Thanks again!
     
    Manfred likes this.
  17. Jul 12, 2017 at 4:13 AM
    #17
    NewfoundlandTaco

    NewfoundlandTaco Well-Known Member

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    Replaced mine last night in 10 mins. New hub came from Ebay and went on perfect. Thanks again.
     
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    #17
    Manfred likes this.
  18. Jul 12, 2017 at 4:23 AM
    #18
    80schild

    80schild Well-Known Member

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    So these clutch failures are more common in areas where they salt the roads?
     
  19. Jul 14, 2017 at 3:48 AM
    #19
    Manfred

    Manfred Well-Known Member

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    Just so I am on the same page as everyone. when we remove the belt to inspect compressor and:

    1) the clutch spins with the belt off - replace clutch
    OR
    2) the cutch does not spin with the belt off - replace whole compressor (as it is seized or grenade)

    am I understanding this correctly? amateur DIY'er Fyi
     
  20. Jul 14, 2017 at 6:52 AM
    #20
    ChiefBrody

    ChiefBrody Well-Known Member

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    With the truck off I can reach down in there and move the clutch around a couple inches.

    Have someone in the truck start it while you observe the clutch/compressor (make sure A/C is off when you start it). Have the person in the truck turn on the A/C. You'll know right away if the compressor is locked up because the pulley won't spin and the belt will make a horrendous noise slipping across it. If they hit the A/C and nothing happens (but the A/C pulley is spinning freely) then most likely your clutch is shot.

    Does that make sense?
     
    Jeremy4876 and Manfred like this.

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