ECT power always on?

Changing those switches is easy and requires almost no disassembly. I had to figure out a way to add a switch when I did my cell booster wiring mod. Remove the plastic around the head unit by pulling on it. Undo the four bolts on the head unit and pull it out. I have an automatic and I was able to wrap the head unit in a towel and place it on the shifter without undoing any of the wiring. You can now reach in behind the switches and move, rearrange, re wire, or add switches. Just as an fyi, the factory switches are made with grooves on the sides that correspond to the hole they are supposed to be in. I moved my usb/aux port over and had to trim the grooves on the switch with an Olfa knife. Super easy and quick. Much better than a full dash removal.
At least that's how I did it when I couldn't find a way to disassemble the dash

 

THAT, is some *great* info.

If you the only thing you accomplish today was giving me those tips, you've done more for me than the vast majority of the planet's population (those slackers!).

Seriously, thanks man.

 

Lol no problem. I asked guys on here how to get at those switches for awhile but never got an answer. You gotta kinda wiggle your arm in there but for a guy who HATES taking those damn plastic pieces apart....that's the way to go.

 

Just a random question, why did you remove the button for the backup sensor instead of the blind spot monitor? I have yet to think of a reason to turn off BSM, but disable they backup pretty often.

 

Pulling a wide trailer need to turn BSM off otherwise goes off. In manual

 

Because I don't have backup sensors. I had one open slot on that panel and my ocd told me that the cell booster button had to be beside the cell charger button. Out of curiosity, backup sensors are only on the pro right? Or off road too? Toyota in their wisdom don't make the pro available in Canada. Didn't know that until I went to order the 17 trd pro shifter. Going to have to order from Dallas. But the tundra pro is now available here.

 

I would be happy with a normally functioning ECT but on the wheel -- opposite the phone controls. As others have stated, I really only use it when I need to aggressively get into the flow of traffic from a side street or onramp. I wind up fiddling around trying to find it down there.

 

Mine came with the off road tech package in the US

 

Even with the STB done, I still use the ECT button when pulling into traffic. The throttle response is so much better with the button on. I don't understand the reasoning to have such a weak throttle response without out using the ECT. Everything else post TSB is great other than the still abysmal throttle response without ECT on.

 

Ah I have trd sport with upgrade package

 

Haven't some people had problems always driving with ECT? I know I saw a thread somewhere about a blown diff for always driving in ECT or was it a towing one that I'm mistaken with?

I wonder if something from switch pro would work? I know you can program their switches, some of them can be programmed as 'memory' so that turning ignition on and off wont change anything. It will be in the state it was before.

On the note could the poor throttle response be due to the fly by wire throttle and possibly a shit fly by wire? I know a co worker of mine was telling me he had an issue with his new civic being shit fly by wire throttle control and then he just got a sprint booster and it helped a lot. I know I have a sprint booster in my jetta and it makes a big difference.

I've only test driven them and didn't find it all that terrible. It was much better than the 2015 camry I had as a rental that had the same super electronically controlled transmission thing. That car was terrible.

 

My subaru had it on the steering wheel to switch modes on the fly.

That said, all manufacturers keep performance or tow haul modes off default now due to emission regulations and fuel economy standards. The only way to make it on by default would to have a cycling relay similar to that of which tricks the new aftermarket headunits into thinking the parking lever was engaged then disengaged.

I don't think any truck stays in tow/haul mode after shut down/start up anymore.

 

there was a thread about that and some electronics guru (not sure of his user) was saying a momentary switch being put as constantly on likely won't work.

I guess it would depend how the ECT works exactly. Does it come on as soon as button is pressed or does it only come on once button is depressed? If its set up where the momentary power signals something and once the signal is removed it comes on, putting a on off switch will likely just be like holding the ECT button. I might be wrong, car electronics aren't my field, I'm just thinking electrical point when it comes to motor controls that I do at work. Usually the momentary low voltage control type systems only work once depressed. Holding them won't activate the motors. It all depends on wiring though and what type of contact/relay is being used for the low voltage control.

 

What cell phone booster are you using? Is there a noticeable difference with it?

 

I'm using a Wilson Electronic Weboost 4gm. It works really well at boosting a signal in poor reception areas. I bought it for being out in the bush where I spend alot of time, but honestly thought it would work even better. Keep in mind that any booster will only clean and amplify the signal your getting. If your not getting any signal, it has nothing to work with. That being said, my set up is really not optimal and I knew that going in. Rather than make all sorts of new holes on a new truck and mounting the antenna on the roof, I mounted it in the bed. I built a box that mounts to the track system and the antenna usually lives horizontally under the tonneau. When I go to the bush or have poor reception the tonneau gets rolled up and the magnetic antenna gets oriented vertically. That helps but ideally it should be at the highest point possible.

If your interested I did a build thread for my whole booster project.