Brice's Turbo V6 Build

If you do go twincharged you'll have to worry about charge temps since that SC is literally a heat maker and its charge won't go through the IC

 

For number 3, I noticed after a couple months of being boosted my brakes suddenly lost stiffness and aren't stopping as well. I re-bled with no different results. Could this be linked to that? I've never noticed if the brake booster has a check valve already on it. Do you know what exactly this causes inside the brake booster? Thanks

 

I know that there is a long history of vehicles having problems with their brake boosters , after adding a post throttle body F/I modifier.

Likely due to blowing out seals and not allowing the vacuum to work properly.

 

A free fix would be to take off that vacuum hose, plug it and then test the brakes unpowered. I assumed that'd work?

 

They might be extremely difficult eith the assistance. That is how they are on the 2nd gen. Only one way to find out though.

 

@Torspd workin on that video right now

 

Video rendering...

 

Rout it pre turbo but make sure the can is filtering very well or you will gum up your turbo.

The PCV is a check valve. Running it to the charged side of the turbo is a bad idea. The pressure in the charge pipe and the pressure in your crank will normalize and the PCV will not vent the pressure as its supposed to. Either vent to air or run to pre turbo.

1st, yes, CX did a good job with flex pipe.

3rd, I used a check valve and my brakes didn't work; the were very hard to depress. The break booster has a check valve already; not sure what its rated to. Just be careful if you put another check valve on.

 

The turbo inlet would be where it takes in air, otherwise, the side that's not pressurized.

 

Takes in air or where the crank vents out air? The reason I don't rout mine to pre turbo is because I don't have a $$$ catch can that actually 'cleans' the air. I don't want to be pumping oily air into the turbo.

 

Yeah me either thats why I went to atmosphere. I was just explaining to him the way to do it and comply with emissions.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMeOKL9bc6I

 

So what's that thing towards the back of the engine that looks just like the thing on the front you are referring to as the fpr?

In the URD install guide for the 7th it says the one towards the back is the fpr and has you hook it to a boost source.

 

The thing directly hooked up to the charge pipe is the fpr's vacuum line. the actual fpr itself is back behind the intake.

 

Nice vid! They make a lot of low end power (torque) because the intake runners are so freaken long and your exhaust is so small. The 3" exhaust should help the upper end power but with those long intake runners and a 5.5k redline, your HP will probably never exceed the torque.

BTW, did I share this? Get the "O" gasket for your TB. Toyota claims the "D" can reduce boost (on the S/C) by about 1 psi. Not sure why they went with a restrictive gasket in the first place.

 

Oh yeah I forgot about that...I wondered if it was a restriction myself when I cleaned the manifold.

 

I mat have already asked this, but do you have an automatic or manual trans? I see you have shift kit as ones of your mods so.....

 

Automatic, and a Transgo shift kit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNbEF1s8V2s

 

did you do the shift kit yourself or send it out?

 

I looked into this but it isn't safe. Meaning there is no go way to tune it without a full stand alone. And due to the twin charge nature of compound boost. You'd want the stock pulley on the blower and like 4-6psi out of a turbo, turbo depending of course and you'd end up with 15-18psi of boost. Which means you'd want t build the block up.

Basically, it would be insanely badass....but stupid expensive.

Had a guy somehow mount one of these to his 7mgte in his supra though with a stock turbo. Power curve and torque curve was insanely awesome. Sounded cool too. Looked like it pulled like a mother fucker.