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Rusted Diff Cover repair Part 1

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by travelfeet, Sep 5, 2016.

  1. Sep 5, 2016 at 2:53 PM
    #1
    travelfeet

    travelfeet [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My North East Taco has been weeping from the diff cover since I got it, ~3 years ago. I have been JB welding etc... every 6 months or so which holds for about 6 months. At the most recent start of weeping - mid-summer, I final decided to fix it for real.

    ordered this a few weeks ago

    Beefy!

    I don't wheel at all, but it's still bad ass.

    Installation is simple o_O - cut off the old, weld on the new.

    Here goes nothing.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2016
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  2. Sep 5, 2016 at 3:01 PM
    #2
    travelfeet

    travelfeet [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This is what I am working with:


    Welcome to upstate NY!

    Prep involved dropping the spare tire, draining the diff, attempting to removed the rear brake line, and plugging in my angle grinder.

    After breaking 2 of the bolts holding the brake line clips? in place my grinder was put to first use cutting the rest. I didn't disconnect the line, but eased it up out of the way a bit.

    I wasn't sure how it would go, so I started easy. My fear was cutting too deep and hitting something inside.

    first cut was the easiest to reach.


    as bad as the axle looks, the cover was actually pretty solid. below is one of 2 spots that were leaking, you can barely see the hole from the inside:

     
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  3. Sep 5, 2016 at 3:17 PM
    #3
    travelfeet

    travelfeet [OP] Well-Known Member

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    After the first cut I realized I needed a bit more room to work with. I disconnected the e-brake cables at each hub and pushed it out of the way. I also unbolted the load sensor arm for the BPV and wired it out of the way. Then I jacked up the truck and let the axle droop down so I would have more space above the diff.

    Second big cut got the top half of the cover


    The hardest parts to reach were at 3 and 9 o'clock due to the brake line brackets which prevent a 90 degree approach with the grinder (I should have just cut them off as both are fairly useless at this point.)

    In order to get a bit more of the leftovers at these points, I scored the remaining cover at an angle as deep as I could (easier to approach at an angle) and bent the pieces off.

    I still had about 1/2 inch of cover all the way around. The metal gets thicker at the edge and was harder to cut. With the edge exposed, I was a lot more confident about what I was cutting and so trimmed the final ring around the diff without too much difficulty.


    I still have to grind it flat and prep for welding, but this was about 4 hrs work and I called it quits.

    Stay tuned in a couple days for the big finish.

    Anyone have suggestions for the best method to clean out the inside of the diff when I am done

    I was thinking spray with some thin oil while its open, then perhaps brake cleaner/solvent? Then another oil bath and drain before shutting it up to weld. What do you think?
     
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  4. Sep 5, 2016 at 3:26 PM
    #4
    Itchyfeet

    Itchyfeet Well-Known Member

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    I could be wrong here, but given what the rest of the axle housing looks like I'd replace it.
     
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  5. Sep 5, 2016 at 3:52 PM
    #5
    travelfeet

    travelfeet [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yep, you're wrong!

    The cover was $100, priced a new axle housing lately? Even a whole used axle is 1k and up with shipping, unless you find one local. Anything local to me will look much the same.

    Besides, the 1/8 thick diff cover, as seen in the pics, is very solid but for 2 pin holes. It's the thinnest part of the whole rear assembly. Unless I plan to race in Baja, it's got plenty of life left.
     
  6. Sep 5, 2016 at 4:09 PM
    #6
    maulcruiser

    maulcruiser Well-Known Member

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    You should have pulled that differential out prior to this job. It's not too late to get it out of the way before you begin welding. Multiple baths with brake parts cleaner would be my suggestion if you don't pull it.
     
  7. Sep 5, 2016 at 4:27 PM
    #7
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    ^ this.

    Slip the diff out now, then you'll have front side access to clean up any leftovers. Put some old speaker magnets inside the house to help grab shavings, less to clean out.
     
  8. Sep 5, 2016 at 4:48 PM
    #8
    carofchoice

    carofchoice Well-Known Member

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    Would def pull the diff out as suggested. Other than that, can't wait to see the end result.
     
  9. Sep 5, 2016 at 6:17 PM
    #9
    devinzz1

    devinzz1 Well-Known Member

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    like already said. before you ruin that diff get it out of there. while grinding youve probably already got flakes of metal into places there shouldnt be. situation will be worse with weld spatter in there.
     
  10. Sep 14, 2016 at 5:57 PM
    #10
    travelfeet

    travelfeet [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Been a few days, but cover is welded on. My welder is only rated to about 3/16, so I did a triple pass all around. Some places more. Welding while sitting and laying on the ground was an interesting experience. The angle in the center was my test welding while the cover was off (so I could gauge penetration from the back side) and to have a good ground contact for welding the cover on. I'll probably cut it off, but it doesn't hurt sitting there.

    Still need to clean up, paint, weld new brake line brackets, put everything back in place then flush and fill the diff.
     
  11. Sep 15, 2016 at 12:34 PM
    #11
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    All I can say is your a glutton for punishment !!

    Then maybe you just wanted to make it difficult

    I am curious just how many leaks your going to have.

    More then two I venture

    If it does not fall off completely

    I failed better looking welding tests



    Have you bought the differential for when this one fails
     
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  12. Sep 15, 2016 at 12:38 PM
    #12
    devinzz1

    devinzz1 Well-Known Member

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    #weldporn
     
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  13. Sep 15, 2016 at 12:49 PM
    #13
    SOMDTACO

    SOMDTACO Well-Known Member

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    Did you use a flux-core welder?
     
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  14. Sep 15, 2016 at 12:54 PM
    #14
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Clearly. This is going to leak all over the place man. Beads are too tall and thin. Should have used a hot mig and gone slow with a wide bead
     
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  15. Sep 15, 2016 at 12:57 PM
    #15
    devinzz1

    devinzz1 Well-Known Member

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    The fcaw-s had a better chance of being hotter than solid wire. Wire feed needs to go if the machine is cranked.
     
  16. Sep 15, 2016 at 1:03 PM
    #16
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Just needs a bigger welder lol
     
  17. Sep 15, 2016 at 1:12 PM
    #17
    T4RFTMFW

    T4RFTMFW Well-Known Member

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    I have a good name for that car - Rusty.
     
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  18. Sep 15, 2016 at 1:46 PM
    #18
    SOMDTACO

    SOMDTACO Well-Known Member

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    I think he'll be ok. It's not like the pressures are very high in the case. I'd just keep a close eye on it and make sure it's not leaking at all. Like Anthony said, a leak that continues un-noticed will surely lead to failure of the diff. If it is leaking, you will have to grind down and re-weld the leak area.

    It doesn't look pretty but I'm sure there are some solid welds here and there under all that. And he says he doesn't do any off roading, so I doubt it's going to get knocked around too much, if at all.

    Keep us updated OP. interested in how it holds up.
     
  19. Sep 15, 2016 at 2:55 PM
    #19
    travelfeet

    travelfeet [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, flux is all I've got, thus the ugly welds. Certainly my limited experience welding had nothing to do with it! It is also a 110 rig at max heat so as noted I had to keep it moving.

    I was also concerned about duty cycle, no way I was going to make it all the way around in one go, plus I was a bit concerned about warping things (may not have been likely) by overlapping too much in one area. My approach was to run beads in quarters. The plan was one bead tight to the axle side, one tight to the cover and a final one down the middle of the two. This worked pretty well across the top and surprisingly under the bottom (my first time semi upside down welding). Down the sides I was all over the place though.

    I have zero concerns about it breaking loose, leaking.... well stopping and starting the bead is never good and I did that several places, so we shall see when I test it.

    Truly the worst case scenario is I end up with a leaky diff... basically where I started.

    Hope to clean up and leak test over the weekend.
     
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  20. Sep 15, 2016 at 4:54 PM
    #20
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    No it wont, and if it does it will barely weep. Those welds look better than mine and mine is just ever so slightly weeping. Nothing wrong with flux core. If it does leak fire up the welder and weld over the leaks.

    I did my entire axle flip, oil pan rebuilding and new front frame with flux core 110 and evreythings all good, that diff cover isnt going anywhere
     
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