The Tacoma Towing Bible

Just ordered the Tekonsha P3 with the Toyota harness! Looked into the Prodigy, but I'll always tow with my truck and for double the cost, I figured the P3 was the right choice. Thanks for the recommendations. Ill post my thoughts in about a week when we take our first trip.

 

when you're adjusting it, after following the instructions on level ground, practice braking while going down a steep hill, I found mine was way too aggressive, and had to back it off a fair bit (in the case of my Voyager, this meant backing off the optimal 'level' setting).

 

Good tip, will do. Thanks

 

Just installed this on my Truck few days ago. Installed in about 10 mins. Works great pulling my trailer with 4runner on it.

 

Got us to thr beach and back no problem! I found my optimal setting was between 6.5 and 7.5 depending on how packed the trailer was.

Now that my brakes are solid, I wish I could add $100 part to increase my torque this dramatically!

 

Has anyone had this issue?

My trailer lights aren't fully working. When I apply the brakes or turn signals they light up just fine but when the parking lights are on they do not light up (running lights). I believe it is an issue with my wiring harness. I tested it out but hooking the trailer lights directly to the battery with the parking light wire (brown wire) only and it works fine. I probably will be replacing the wiring harness but before I do I wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue.

Thanks

 

this is a factory tow option? what harness are you planning to replace ? the brake controller harness ONLY impacts the trailer brakes, the trailer lights work with or without a brake controller.

if its an aftermarket tow setup, what trailer light adapter did you use, and how did you wire it in ?

 

Towing my 1971 Airstream Globetrotter 21' @ 3500 lbs dry is the most load I would put on my 03 Taco V6.

 

so you never carry anything in the Airstream? Or you use another tow vehicle ?

 

I have the E2 Trunnion WDH and that looks similar to mine. I can somewhat see the pins/levers on the hitch head that keep the spring bars from falling out. The white stickers on the spring bars indicate if they're 600/6000 lbs or the 1000/10000 lbs bars.

 

The 3500 lbs is the dry weight. Fully loaded I would estimate 4500 lbs. That's the reason I say wouldn't add anymore load.

 

I have a 2007 Tacoma that has 6 cylinders, but no factory tow package. I've added a class 3 hitch, but after research (THANKS to the original poster) I've discovered that I need to do additional modifications. My owner's manual says that my car has a 3,500 towing capacity without tow package, and a 6,500 tow capacity with a tow package. I've never weighed my horse trailer, but I've been told it is 1,500 pounds, and when loaded with 2 horses would be right at or just over 3,500. SO, I'm trying to decide if I should buy a newer (used) Tacoma with a tow package, or modify my existing truck.

If I did modifications, I would add:

• a transmission cooler (would probably buy what was recommended by original poster)
• these helper springs: http://www.generalspringkc.com/prod...MgoIJ4Apg1cJvcqtsGyO3lzkimuwwF3VdoaAsE78P8HAQ
• a brake controller box (any recommendations)?

I am open to any input/suggestions. Is there anything in the above list that is unnecessary? Anything missing?

If I decide to look for a different Tacoma, is there any package or trim options I should look for? Is 4WD a factor where towing is concerned?

(I have little to no knowledge of cars, and terminology), just trying to learn as I go, and appreciate any feedback!

 

2WD is fine for towing on pavement, and really most graded dirt roads, 4WD is for getting unstuck on soft surfaces, and for snow and ice.

re: brake controller, a tekonsha p3 (more sophisticated) or tekonsha voyager (cheaper, cruder) is what most folks use. you'll need the wiring harness for a 7-blade RV style connector on the truck, this connects the trailer lights and brakes to the towing vehicle, based on your professed lack of knowlege of such things, I'd advise having a trailer shop install this.

if you have an automatic transmission, yes, a transmission cooler is a must. again, a trailer/rv shop should be able to install this, or tell you where to go to have it installed.

your trailer should have a plate on it, with its net weight when empty and gross (max) weight. figure 10-15% of the actual weight will be 'tongue weight' sitting on the trailer hitch, this should be subtracted from your vehicles payload capacity (about 1200 lbs for a access cab, and 1000 lbs for a double cab).

depending on your truck's tires and suspension, you may find your truck bobs and porpoises on bumps with a 3500 lb trailer behind it, a weight distributing hitch (WDH) can be used to eliminate or at least greatly reduce this.

 

THANKS for this reply and detailed information! I doubt that I will be in many situations where I would need 4WD. IF I decide to go the route of buying a new Tacoma with towing capacity, I'll probably not look specifically for 4WD.

I have the 7-blade connector, I will most certainly have professionals do the installs.

My trailer is a home made trailer, so I'm thinking of taking it to a weigh station (if possible) to try to find out what it really weighs. Everyone estimates 1,500.

I've been pulling the trailer (first horse trailer I've ever pulled) and it feels great behind me - can hardly tell it is there unless stopping. I've had people who are used to pulling bigger trailers tell me the same thing - that it pulls VERY nice.

Thanks again for the information!

 

it might be useful to measure how high your rear bumper is before you hitch, then again with the empty trailer, then again with the horses on board. if its only an inch or two sag, you're probably fine as-is but if the horses drop the bumper way down, then a WDH will help equalize that.

my tacoma 'TRD off road', with a ~3000 lb camper, using a WDH...

 

THANKS again for the good advice. I will do that (will be hauling them Sunday, and will remember to bring a yardstick). I am guessing that WDH means Weight Distribution Hitch? This is a new "part" to me, so I appreciate the information! Looking at your pictures, may I ask about your topper? I'm wanting to add a topper to my truck also. Oh, and NICE camper!

 

the cap is a Snugtop, meant specifically for a gen2 Taco Access Cab (they have them for Double Cab too), the color is an exact match to he 'mica silver' of my truck. I picked up this cap used shortly after I got the truck from a guy who needed to upgrade to one with larger sliding windows that have dog grills on them as he was starting a high end dog care business in San Francisco, and the little pop-out windows on this one didn't meet the codes for that.

yes, WDH == Weight Distributing Hitch. I got about the cheapest conventional spring-bar style I could find, which is designed for max 600 lbs tongue weight and max 6000 lb trailer,

$299 EAZ LIFT Camco Eaz-Lift Elite 600lb Weight Distribution Hitch with Height Adjustable Forged Shank (48051)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024E6XBA/

a lot of folks on the Casita forum recommend the more expensive Andersen WDH

$600 ANDERSEN HITCHES | 3324 | Weight Distribution Hitch | No Bounce No Sway | Tow Accessories | (4" Drop/Rise, 2" Ball/2" Shank, 3"-6" Brkt)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009V70ZP8/ as this combines anti-sway with weight distributing, and is easier to hitch. I've not tried those, myself.

 

I agree that weight distribution hitch may be a good idea. Another thought would be firestone ride rite airbags as opposed to helper springs, and may be enough to get you by without the wdh. I have both, and for short trips with my camper (approaching 5,000 lbs) the airbags do the job just fine by themselves.

 

If you get a WDH, then you measure wheel well to top of tire, front and back. and adjust accordingly. The truck should squat equally with a weight distribution hitch, within reason.