3rd Gen BHLM and light mods

Disclaimer: Before the google Nazis and search function crew decide to load this with links, yes I've done my homework. No I don't care about other threads on the subject partially because my little knowledge on Tacomas thus far has shown this is a new style headlight, so we can all have a new thread on the matter. Also, I've noticed that a large number of 3rd gen owners don't notice that there are other forums on here other than the 3rd gen forum itself, so this will likely help them out and stop the PMs from coming to my inbox.

BHLM: Black Headlight Mod or Retro as some like to call it. Technically it is not a retro since you are not retrofitting the headlight with a projector or doing major fabrication to it, but that's neither here nor there.

There is a small number of people on here that I've noticed that have modded their 3rd gen headlights. I've combed instagram also like a basic white girl and still didn't see many that have done it. So for all that have seen mine this is for you, in hopes that you will get a little crafty and not send someone money to do something you can do in your own home. I only have a few pics, sorry, but you get the gist of it all from reading and using your imagination (That may be hard but hang in there).

Before the info, I'd like to add that anyone that has modded their headlights should post them up. Better projectors, dual projectors, paint, halos, etc etc....post em up! You will likely be helping someone. And again, refer back to 3rd gen forum comment.

Now on to what I did, and a road map that is easy to follow. Yes, this is a lot like the OG BHLM thread, but has some different info.

1. Remove your bumper

I didn't completely remove it, but that's on you depending on your level of frustration before throwing something. The easier it is for you to get it off, the better. I took out the least bolts and snaps possible, and got the bumper far enough away to remove the headlights.

2. Remove the headlights

Disconnect the male end of all wires on the back of the light connecting to the bulbs and DRL harness. You can just remove the bulbs too, but that's how I did it.

3. Remove all wires/bulbs, and screws

There are a few screws and wires on the outside of the headlight. All screws are Phillips and easy to remove. All wires and bulbs that are accessible need to be removed. There is twist out on the bottom to remove the DRL wire, but that's all you will be able to remove with the DRL. Once all that is done, it's on to the part that freaks people out.

4. Bake that headlight

One light at a time, back the headlight. As I did with my Ram and my Titan, I chose 300F as my money temp and 10 minutes in the oven. Put it in there on a wood cutting board or damp towel being sure not to let the light touch the wall of the oven. After 10 minutes remove the light and bend back all plastic clips. Grabbing a large area of the light, give a firm pull to separate the clear side from the black side. If you get lucky like me, it'll come apart first shot. If you are having issues, use a flat head screw driver to get it partially separated and continue pulling. If the light begins to cool down too much, put it back in the oven for 2 minutes and go back at it. It's not as hard as it sounds, you just have to keep at it and pay attention to not begin cracking the light due to letting it cool and continued pulling. Soon it will come apart.

5. Dismantle inside of clear side

There are a few screws and a few parts. All of them are Phillips and easy to get to. Once you get it dismantled, to include the DRL and reflector area, it's time to paint.

6. Paint the headlight

Now this is where I hate the name BHLM. Nobody is telling you to do black. If pink is what you desire, that's on you. I considered an inferno color, but opt'd for black to match the theme with my truck. But this is entirely an art form. I've seen logos, stripes, stars, etc etc. But, as with anything, it's all about your prep and proper painting. I used plastic bonding spray paint in matte black from Krylon. That means no sanding and no prep, just paint the clean chrome with 5-6 coats and let cure. Paint what you want from there, I chose just the frame area. Let cure for whatever your paint suggests.

THIS AREA IS FOR ADDITIONS

If you would like to add things to your lights, such as a demon eye or halo, now would be the time to do it after the paint has cured. You could do it before painting, but it's up to you. Attention to detail is key to doing this as you will be drilling holes in your headlight frame.

For my halo install, which would be the same for an LED strip, here is what I did. If anyone has info on a demon eye, please post it up and I will add it to here.

To install the halo, I used an 80mm ring. It is the perfect size for the projector. Any larger would not fit, and smaller would be too small to clear the glass.

To fit the ring to the frame you will need to drill three small holes in an orientation to run wire or fishing line around the ring. When doing this, drill the holes in an area that the ring will cover to hide the 3 holes. You will also need to drill a 4th slightly larger hole to run the power/ground wire for the ring. Again, do it somewhere to hide said hole. From there attach the ring with either choice mentioned above and you are done.

Here is the info for how I wired if you chose to copy it.

Your halo should come with a wiring chart. If not, hot goes to hot and cold goes to cold, simple enough. I chose to use a Morimoto XSB 2.0 which has an amber switch back function. The XSB 2.0 comes with a driver which you wire in. I wired my hot for the white LEDs into the pink wire of the DRL harness. This is the hot wire for when your DRL is on with your amber side markers. That's how I wanted it, so it will only come on with the side markers or headlights. Running it during the day with the DRLs would have shortened the halo LED lifespan which is why I went this route, and it doesn't look nearly as cool during the day. I ran the ground for the halo itself to the ground for the DRL which is black. The amber function works in any light stalk position due to wiring to the hot on the turn signal. It will turn amber with 4 ways and all turn signal function.

That's it for the halo install. Now back to the BHLM itself.

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7. Reinstall parts

Put all parts back together how they were before. If you chose to add additions with wires, route the wires so that they are tucked away where you can't see them. Simple enough.

8. Reseal the light

I found the easiest way to do this was to put the black side of the housing back in the oven. Put it in there for 5 minutes at 300F to make the black side more malleable. Once it is out, fill the seal channel with some RTV or any silicon of your choosing. Clear looks better, and high heat capable is highly desired. Push the sides back together and bend down tabs. If you added a halo or strip, make sure to run your wires through the lower access area so you can wire them to a power source when installed to the truck. From there reinstall screws. If you really want it to seal tight, put a ratchet strap around the light and let the seal cure dependent on the seal you decided on's cure time.

9. Reinstall light

Once the seal is cured, reinstall all wires and bulbs. If you chose to add a halo or strip, you can likely hide all the wiring in the lower access area, which is what I did with my halo drivers. Reverse engineer everything that you did at the beginning and drink a beer in celebration...once you've finished up the other one first.

And that's it for the 3rd gen BHLM, or at least how I did it. Below are some pictures of mine modded up, which I will add to later in this thread once I'm home from my TDY. I have also attached the two videos that I have taken of the switch back function if someone wants to take the same route. There is also a link to the halo that I used and its install instructions.

If anyone has any questions, please post them in here so others can benefit from the info. This could end up being a sweet light thread, so post them up as you mod them. Hopefully this helps at least one person on here, or encourages someone to get a little crafty with their lights.















https://youtu.be/PjJzUpM70cM

https://youtu.be/mBXfhiY-GkU

Link to Halo I used and install instructions from Morimoto

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/led-lighting/led-halos-strips/halos-morimoto-xsb-2-0.html

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/media/custom/upload/XSBHalos.pdf

Hope you enjoy the read TW!!!

 

Love the look! But I did this to the headlights on my 350z nismo and swore I would never do it again. You might have change my mind!

 

This would be the third set I've done, and I don't find it that bad. You just have to keep alcohol in you during it to ease the pain.

 

Didn't have enough booze or grizzly to make it through the process. Not to mention cracked the bumper taking it off...I am just glad that the TRD lights come with enough black in them they don't look goofy.

 

I did this last weekend. Didn't add the halo, just blacked out the chrome. Looks great!

Cleaning the factory sealant off of the headlight assembly was the most difficult part for me. Once you have the headlight separated and the sealant is exposed to air, it starts to harden. Time is your enemy. After separating the headlight, I suggest removing as much of the sealant as possible as quickly as possible.

 

Looks good. While your that deep into it... might as well swap the projector for better performance. RX350's are a direct bolt in swap.

 

I can't get mine open!!!!! Ahhhhhhh

 

Use more hammer

 

Perhaps more Cowbell ?

 

Actually you need more heat.

But hammer and cowbell may help.

 

Pics guys, come on

 

How bad does the glue get all over everything? You simply scrape it off with you finger or use a solvent or something? Also are you guys resealing with new product or just use remaining OEM glue? If using the existing glue any problems with leaks it condensation?

Debating if I want to do this or not

 

-"glue" aka the sealant is a little gummy while it's still hot. But rock hard when it cools. Doesn't really get on anything except the tool you are using to open the light.
-I would not try and re-seal it using the OEM sealant. I scrapped it all out of the housing channel and layed a new strip of this stuff:
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/build-materials/morimoto-retrorubber-butyl-glue.html
For something this critical, it's cheap insurance.

 

Problem with butyl rubber is it never hardens and gets softer in the heat. It will keep water and moister out but won't bond the housing. I think I would want something different

 

Wow those are really good looking.

 

What side did you start from when pulling? I started from the bottom inside edge with zero luck. You're a stud for pulling them apart. I can't do it lol

 

MORE cow bell ALWAYS helps.

#BLACKHEADLIGHTSMATTER

 

I started on the side that has the bracket coming off it. I pulled like an SOB and it popped apart no problem.

 

First of all I just wanted to say thank you for posting this. It was crucial to the success of me getting to project completed, and I really appreciated every word. Your turned out great, and your truck is beautiful! This was my most frustrating and time consuming mod that i have ever tackled. I would say that I would not ever do this again, but the result is so nice and cost- effective that I would probably be lying. I also wanted to note that because I wanted to avoid taking my bullbar off and messing up the clean rubber finish on my fender flares, I DID NOT TAKE OFF MY BUMPER . I simply used a hacksaw to cut the tabs that mount it to the bumper. There are plenty of mounting tabs left, and i do not feel that it compromises the integrity or stability of the light. Saved tons of time and energy on me behalf. Thanks for posting pictures. Here is my job. I used Krylon Heat Resistant spraypaint in Matte finish aftersanding and cleaning the chrome paces, as well as tinted the side reflector almost completely black with VHT Niteshades and Acrylic Clearcoat (buffed out with polish and wax) as well as adding a remote-control operated color changing 80mm LED Halo ring.