The PRINSU How To Thread

Copy that. You put any rubber on the ubolt where it meets the crossbar?

 

No.

 

As to the shark fin get-around I wanted something that would make it easier to slide lumber up onto the rack from the back and still be low profile so I came up with this:
I went to the local Yakima rack dealer and got a used 48" bar; then to the nearest bicycle shop and got 2 star-nuts for a 1" head tube, all total $25
After cutting the bar down to 47" I installed the nuts in the ends of the bar and bolted it in with a couple of 6mm - 1 machine screws from the local hardware store.
I'm really happy with it; the vinyl coating on the bar makes for a great low-friction surface and it's exactly the same height as the square bars so there is perfect weight distribution.

 

I threw up my TREDs and plano case last weekend. Here's how I did it.

TREDs: used they're mount would've liked to save the cash and just used longer carriage bolts but oh well.


Finished product, the large bolt on the back is to keep the rear from sliding all over


Plano:

I used some more carriage bolts, rubber washer, washer and wing nut in 4 holes that I drilled



Now I just need to get the rotopax mounts and the water jug and it'll be set. Awesome product Zac

 

Can you replace the bolts on the treds mount with a longer carriage bolt so to allow you to secure 4 treds?

 

The mount came with 2 sets of bolts. One this length and another longer so you can use all 4 treds

 

Zach, I got the black part of the bracket but the silver part wasn't there. Do I need to order that from somewhere?

 

The silver part is what comes standard on the ends of the lightbars. The pictures show it off the bar because you have to remove it to get the bolts tight when attaching it to the black bracket.

 

Okay awesome. Thanks so much!

 

Trying to get ahold of you guys about a rack for our 2007 Tacoma. Sent a PM here, and an email through your website with no response. Who should i try to contact next?

 

Caleb,

I replied to the email, maybe it went to the spam folder? I will try to resend it in just a bit.

 

Hmm, havnt seen it. I will check spam. Did you send it to caleb@c4fab.co? Lots of people add an "m" at the end out of habit, maybe you did the same?

 

I like this. I could see this also being done with a slightly smaller diameter of tubing, and sleeve it with a piece of HDPE or similar, which would allow a surface to roll material on without dragging it across.

 

Josh did you actually get Tredz or Maxtraxx? And if you did get Tredz can you link the mount you used?

 

Subd

 

Might be a little noisy unless you got the tolerances perfect, but it's a great idea. I went with the yak bar because of the availability of the parts for me, and the vinyl coating is low-friction enough for me.
If you wanted to go your route I suggest McMaster Carr for the different sized star nuts.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#star-nuts/=1484nmv
(They're at the bottom of the linked page)

 

I got the Treds. I bought their mount and it's alright, I'd rather save the $20 and just gone with longer 1/4" carriage bolts

 

@zscott if you feel like adding parts numbers to the ARB awning How-to portion

Since I typed it up for another thread...

Here is what I used with part numbers from Lowes to mount a 6ft ARB Awning to the CabRac, and it is rock solid.

2 Packs of 6x40mm Bolts (138071)
2 Packs of 6mm Nylon Lock Nuts (138085)
7 - 1/4x3/8x3/4 Steel Spacers (137114)
14 - 1/4in Flat Washers (311726)
7 - 1-1/4 Fender Washers (15346)

I then mounted it like Awning - Bolt - Fender Washer - Spacer - Flat Washer - Prinsu Rack - Flat Washer - Lock Nut.

Total cost for all parts was $18.36 and I used 5 bolts, so had three left over. I was originally going to mount it to the rack in 7 spots, but it was overkill IMO, so only did it 5 times.

 

Sub'd for when I get my rack

 

sub'd as well