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Best rear axle bearings?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by beavis87, Sep 22, 2016.

  1. Sep 22, 2016 at 10:32 PM
    #1
    beavis87

    beavis87 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am chasing a growling noise in my truck with no luck. Front wheel bearings, driverside EGCS bearing, U-joints, center support bearing all changed. Seems whats left is rear wheel bearings and pinion bearings. So I'm tracking down quality parts without paying dealership prices. I know Toyota doesn't make bearings in house, and heard that Koyo are the brand of bearings used on Tacoma wheel axles. On eBay it looks like Koyo are the cheaper ones with Timken ones being more expensive. However, a closer look at the pictures look like the bearings in the one's labeled Timken have Koyo written on bearing. What is up with that? Maybe the seller is mistaken and the Timken ones only have Timken seals? I am just trying to organize research here on wheel bearings in order to help myself and other owners.

    This one is the cheapest Koyo one according to the picture even though it doesn't specifically say its Koyo in title or description. It does however, say in the title, "original equipment:
    Toyota Tacoma Rear Left Wheel Bearing 42460 04010 Original Equipment Brand New - $104.77

    This one says Koyo in the title, but is made by WD Express and is similar price:
    Koyo 4246004010 Wheel Bearing - $106.57

    Other sellers selling Koyo bearings say they are made by Koyo and list a Toyota part number 42460-04010. The Koyo part number on the actual bearing is 2DACF044N-6E

    Other brands and part numbers that have Koyo bearings shown:
    Timken 512294
    BCA Bearing WE60760
    WD Express 394 51043 308

    This one is priced same as the last one but title and description says "Timken"
    Timken 512294 Rear Wheel Bearing - $113.97

    This one is considerably more, doesn't state it has a Koyo bearing but the pictures show that. Made by BCA Bearing:
    Wheel Bearing Rear Left BCA Bearing WE60760 fits 05-15 Toyota Tacoma - $138.57

    Then you have OEM one which I've found at the lowest from toyotaonline parts for
    $273.42 to an eBay seller for $442.59. The cheapest is twice as much as ones above and the most expensive OEM one more than 4 times as much for what looks to be exactly the same part! Is the part that comes in the red Toyota box any different than those that are not?
     
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    #1
  2. Sep 22, 2016 at 10:55 PM
    #2
    jboudreaux1965

    jboudreaux1965 Ragin Cajun Fan

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    OK.....

    I can tell you a few things from experience...

    After the floods in Louisiana, I literally just finished changing all 4 bearings a few days ago!

    I have a friend with a full shop. Been there about 40 years or so. From start to finish the front 2 bearings took about 2 and half hours total.

    REAR BEARINGS.......................

    The first one we tried was the RR. We looked at specs, manuals, yuotube videos, everything before we started! I can tell you for a fact there is not a single COMPLETE howto available! After a day of trial and error, we gave up. Went to the dealership and did some research then brought the whole axel/bearing/hub assemply to an expert local machine shop.

    I had to use Timken because thats what local store had. It has only been a few days so I can't really comment on quality. My reason for posting is this, unless you are an expert mechanic and machinist, do NOT try to do this in your driveway!

    Best way to do this and save some time and money, go to the dealership and have them pull up the parts list. You will see there is an extra washer, a couple of seals, and metal piece no howto addresses. BUY them all, even the retainer, you wont be able to reuse the old one!

    Then, jack you truck up, remove the wheels, remove the drums, remove the shoes, etc, remove the hub from the axle housing, CAREFULLY pull the hub/axle assembly out and bring it with your new bearing, axel seal, bearing seal, retainer, etcto an expert machine shop and pay them $100 to pull off the old parts and mount your knew parts and bearing to the axle.

    The LR bearing was ALOT less stressful and took like a day because now I knew what parts I needed that were never listed in any howto guide and I scheduled ahead at machine shop so I was in and out in the same day, instead of 4 days learning as I go!

    If you have ZERO tools, labor, shop use expenses (well besides some beer and covering lunch for a few bro's for a couple of days :) ), etc, budget about $1,000 for all 4 bearings said and done.
     
    beriman10 and Tiger541 like this.
  3. Sep 23, 2016 at 5:03 AM
    #3
    beavis87

    beavis87 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I know what your saying and thanks for the insight about the other parts needed. I did plan on taking my truck to a shop to get the rear bearings done, I just didn't want to spend $550 on just two bearings at the dealer if I can get the same for half that.
     
  4. Sep 23, 2016 at 5:16 AM
    #4
    mxer512

    mxer512 Well-Known Member

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    RC step bars. Clazzio seat covers. Bilstein 5100's front /rear 1" block rear, color matched grill surround, Tacoma all weather floor mats, Depo smoked taillights, bed mat, matte black bed decals, matte black badges.
    Have you checked your drums? If you have a broken spring it would make some noise like this
     
  5. Sep 23, 2016 at 5:40 AM
    #5
    98tacoma27

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  6. Oct 21, 2016 at 11:05 AM
    #6
    chacotaco

    chacotaco Well-Known Member

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    Beavis87, you ever sort this out ?
     
  7. Mar 29, 2017 at 6:56 PM
    #7
    jibski

    jibski Well-Known Member

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    Thought I'd bump this thread instead of creating a new one...

    Similar to the OP, I am trying to track down a new vibration that started a few weeks ago. I'm lifted 2.5" but that was 6+ months ago, with no changes to any suspension geometry and no new parts installed in recent weeks to explain the new noises I'm hearing. It is a low rhythmic vibe/groan/howl that is best heard at slower speeds (<20mph) and is heard all the way down to stop. It does seem to be accentuated when I am on the brakes. It correlates to vehicle road speed, is not affected by 4wd, and seems constant through any turns. My two front wheel bearings are new. I have the ECGS bushing. Both diff fluids were checked, slightly low but not significantly, and were topped off. I pulled my rear drive shaft and drove in 4wd hi with no change to the vibe/noise. Jacking the ass end up and spinning the rear wheels, each one has an intermittent marble-like click, identical side to side, that doesn't really sound like my front bearing that went bad. I'm wondering if the parking brake or brake drum assemblies ever make any such clicking noise when the wheel spins. I don't want to accept it, but I am thinking that both rear bearings may be on their way out. Even with only 80k miles on the truck, I understand this is still a somewhat common problem. I also have two new brake rotors I will be installing soon, but I can't imagine warped rotors could cause a low rhythmic drone at such low speeds.

    Any thoughts?? Otherwise I'll be tearing into my rear drums here at some point and doing some work. I tried cracking one of the drums today and it won't budge...I'm thinking I may have to cut it off with a grinder...neat.

    Thanks,
    jib
     
  8. Mar 29, 2017 at 7:16 PM
    #8
    jboudreaux1965

    jboudreaux1965 Ragin Cajun Fan

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    Before you go through changing rear bearings.Jack up the rear, put some gloves on, grab tge top and bottom of the tire and try to shake it as hard as you can in out out. Not like rotating it, push it towards the other rear wheel, if you follow. If no wobble take off rear wheels, remove drumbs and get a sanding block and some brake cleaner. Sand and clean the inside and outside of the drums as clean as can be. Inspect other brake parts, clean if necessary. Put drums and wheels back on and test.

    Edit....

    Also sand brake shoes flat!

    If bearings were bad, you would know it. Sqeeking, etc... worse when running for a while. Also, if one wheel bearing is bad, lets say tge right rear, when you turn left the weight goes to the right side, putting weight on the bearing, sqeeking/noise should get less. But turning right, the weight is off of the right bearing, squeeking should get loader since less pressure on the bearing and it can wobble around.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2017
  9. Mar 29, 2017 at 7:28 PM
    #9
    jboudreaux1965

    jboudreaux1965 Ragin Cajun Fan

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    No no no! Dont cut it off! Spray the hell out of it with penetrating spray. Let sit for 30 mins. Take hammer and tap the top, then bottom a few times. If it dont budge, you will see a few holes in the drum, those areactually screws you turn to push the drum off!
     
  10. Mar 29, 2017 at 7:33 PM
    #10
    jibski

    jibski Well-Known Member

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    It's really rusted to hell. I've managed to strip both the threaded holes. I beat on it pretty good with a hammer and I'm afraid of damaging something. I sprayed it pretty good with Pblaster but will soak it again and let it set a while. I'm not sure what the next step is to try to get the drum off. But once I get in there, I will try your suggestions...
    When I had it jacked up I did grab the wheel and try to tweak it in all different directions and I really can't feel any play whatsoever.
     
  11. Mar 29, 2017 at 7:35 PM
    #11
    jboudreaux1965

    jboudreaux1965 Ragin Cajun Fan

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    Try a sledge hammer? (Gently) you hitting it strait on or literally from the top and bottom?
     
  12. Mar 29, 2017 at 7:39 PM
    #12
    jibski

    jibski Well-Known Member

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    I haven't tried hitting it from top and bottom, but next time I have the wheel off I will try that. I was beating on it from the inside out, on the lip between the back plate and the drum. I would have thought that would knock it loose. Parking brake is off...maybe I need to ratchet the star wheel loose in case the brake shoes have grooved into the drum?? I found new drum covers X 2 on ebay for 71 bucks including shipping. Grinding it off doesn't sound too terrible if that's what it comes to. I'll keep trying to coax it off though.
     
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  13. Mar 29, 2017 at 7:40 PM
    #13
    jboudreaux1965

    jboudreaux1965 Ragin Cajun Fan

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    Also, pull your rear ABS sensors, its literally one bolt. Inspect for oil. You mentioned diff. A little low. Maybe axle seal leaking? Just trying to think of anything?
     
  14. Mar 29, 2017 at 7:42 PM
    #14
    jboudreaux1965

    jboudreaux1965 Ragin Cajun Fan

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    No, no, no, dont hit it from the inside! Hit it on the outside face on the upper end above center, the lower side of face below center.
     
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  15. Mar 29, 2017 at 7:43 PM
    #15
    jibski

    jibski Well-Known Member

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    Yes that is one of my concerns (axle seal leaking). I just did the diff breather mod because I found mine to be completely rusted shut. Heard air hissing when I broke it free, so I would not be surprised if gear oil has been leaking past the seals. I was wondering how to check the inside of the drum for evidence of oil without cracking it open. I will pull the ABS sensor and look for oil. Thanks!
     
  16. Mar 29, 2017 at 7:52 PM
    #16
    jboudreaux1965

    jboudreaux1965 Ragin Cajun Fan

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    You may have bent the backing plates trying to hit it from the inside that would cause a rythmic marble sound. No worrys! Just bend them back towards the center of the truck a hair. As for the growl....

    Check bolts on carrier bearing, see if it looks like the slid forwards or backwards. Look for marks. Also, have you greased front U-Joints?
     
  17. Mar 29, 2017 at 7:57 PM
    #17
    jboudreaux1965

    jboudreaux1965 Ragin Cajun Fan

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    Pulling ABS sensor ONLY tells you if outer axle seal is bad, not inner. To check inner seal you have to remove the axle shaft. Not hard at all once drumb removed, just a few bolts. If the axle tube has some oil, good! If its smack FULL of oil, maybe bad inner axle seal.
     

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