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Opinion on ********* package deal...????

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by evilcorvette, Sep 6, 2016.

  1. Sep 7, 2016 at 10:13 AM
    #21
    gkomo

    gkomo Well-Known Member

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    Check out the Audio section... we have done the research FOR YOU! There are tons of builds, mine include ("My Audio Build")... it's like 7 pages, tons of great information, I broke down the pricing, all the mistakes I made in the process, took pictures so you know what to do and what parts to buy! I have a pretty damn good system now and I think if you don't make some of the mistakes I did you can do it less than $1,000.

    EDIT: Make sure to read through the entire thread if you do read mine... i never went back and updated my first post and things changed as time went on so you gotta dig through.
     
    stealthmode likes this.
  2. Sep 7, 2016 at 10:16 AM
    #22
    jamiec

    jamiec Man who keep hands in pockets feel cocky all day

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    The Clarion amp will fit under the seat. I even had it under the dash sitting on top of the factory head unit. I actually had it in both locations. The amp is very small but it gives the amount of power that an aftermarket head unit would.
    The first thing I would recommend is simply swap out all the door speakers with the best you can afford. I have all JBL GTO series door speakers and they sounded incredible by themselves. Then I added the Clarion amp and was pretty amazed.
    That setup alone was very loud and had bass you can feel and hear.
     
  3. Sep 7, 2016 at 1:56 PM
    #23
    evilcorvette

    evilcorvette [OP] Well-Known Member

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    oderus urungus
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    So I'm coming across 2 schools of thought here.
    1) just replace the speakers

    2) the stock head unit won't make any difference with upgraded speakers.

    I've budgeted $500 for this project. Replacing the head unit is not an option right now. I actually like the stock look and I have to keep this on budget.

    Does the Clarion woofer/amp also drive the 4 speakers in the doors? I like the idea of an amp/speaker combo that could power the other speakers as well.
     
  4. Sep 7, 2016 at 2:01 PM
    #24
    Kyitty

    Kyitty Mr. Beard

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    See Build Page
    I went to Amazon.com and bought this custom box for the DC Tacoma

    IMG_20150302_143149890_HDR_2938f0bfbb47512f502c8dfb72219fcd248f7993.jpg

    Then I had the local shop install some Kicker Comp D 10" subs and an Alpine amp. Thumps pretty decent. Way cheaper than *********.

    Would still like better door speakers at some point though.
     
  5. Sep 7, 2016 at 4:47 PM
    #25
    jamiec

    jamiec Man who keep hands in pockets feel cocky all day

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    Yes, the Clarion amp is a 4 channel lower wattage amp that will power the 4 door speakers. It is made for the purpose of keeping your factory head unit while delivering more power to your speakers.
     
  6. Sep 7, 2016 at 5:45 PM
    #26
    evilcorvette

    evilcorvette [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well, I think you just made my life a whole lot easier.

    I guess its time to call crutchfield. Next question...as far as adapters....should I keep 6x9's in the doors or go to a round speaker?
     
  7. Sep 7, 2016 at 5:53 PM
    #27
    jamiec

    jamiec Man who keep hands in pockets feel cocky all day

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    My personal opinion is 6x9s. The 6.5s in the rear aren't as good sounding as my front 6x9s
     
  8. Sep 7, 2016 at 6:15 PM
    #28
    GYOAZ

    GYOAZ Well-Known Member

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    Billies and Eibachs, Camburg BJ UCAs, Demello hybrid sliders SOS HC rear bumper, SOS front bumper, Warn M80000, fully armored, Safari snorkel, No-slip locker, diff breather, bumper and roof mounted light bars, onboard Viair, 275/70 17 BFG ATs, and a badass sound system.
    6x9 is a great sounding speaker and the crutchfield adapters make the install super easy. The elliptical shape of the 6x9 creates more surface area than a round 6"speaker, this will give you a a bigger woofer (better mid-low range sounds). Pick one with a good built in tweeter and your sound should be balanced really well.
     
  9. Sep 7, 2016 at 6:16 PM
    #29
    evilcorvette

    evilcorvette [OP] Well-Known Member

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    More questions!

    1) Where did you pull the hot lead for the amp? Im no newbie to wiring but I REALLY dont want to go hunting and splicing in my new truck. Can I safely pull from existing wiring or do I have to run a dedicated lead to the battery? (Ive got a 1000 watt system in my 72 Corvette, but I wired everything from the ground up...I had no worries about cutting anything, as it was already gone)

    2) Please explain to me the wiring path from head unit to amp to speakers. Im imagining some crazy scenario where I have to cut the factory stereo harness, rewire to the amp and route back to the doors, all the while removing all the seats and carpet. Is there an easier way?
     
  10. Sep 7, 2016 at 6:22 PM
    #30
    GYOAZ

    GYOAZ Well-Known Member

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    1. Yes you have to use a dedicated (fused)power line to the battery. The switched (blue) power can be to your HU or another accessory line as it is a very low amp draw.
    2. What I did for my amp install: cut the speaker wire behind the HU, ran the powered (out from HU) end to my amp then ran my amped speaker wire back to behind the HU and used my existing factory speaker wire to the speakers. The factory speaker wire can easily handle the 75w RMS signal of this amp. If you are leaving the amp up under the dash somewhere your install job is gonna be very easy.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2016
  11. Sep 7, 2016 at 6:30 PM
    #31
    jamiec

    jamiec Man who keep hands in pockets feel cocky all day

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    You will need to run a fused power wire from the battery and find a good ground. Then you'll need to find a remote turn on source. There is a good accessory fuse that you can tap into right behind that little unusable storage drawer.
    To make things easier there is 2 wire harnesses that you can buy. 1 connects to the trucks harness and it has color coded speaker wires and the other connects to your factory head unit.
    From there you will wire the new head unit wires to the input side of the amp then the output wires will go the the new truck harness side. That is where you can choose to run wires under your seat for the amp or wire it under the dash. I recommend going g under the seat because my amp got really hot under the dash.
    Replace door speakers and fine tune the sound. I'll try to look up the harnesses for you and share the link. I actually found all the parts on the forums here somewhere. Search clarion xc1410 and see what you can find.
     
  12. Sep 7, 2016 at 6:33 PM
    #32
    stealthmode

    stealthmode Well-Known Member

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    Front and Rear lifts Tires ECGS bushing Lots of other crap +HP sticker
    Yup.... I was in your boat too when I started research. Ultimately though I decided piecemeal route. For budget purposes and ability to build and research as I go.
    Good luck.
     
  13. Sep 7, 2016 at 6:38 PM
    #33
    evilcorvette

    evilcorvette [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like the hardest part of the install is going to be crawling around upside down trying to get at all the factory HU wiring. STUPID QUESTION ALERT: are you guys pulling the head unit out or working from behind it? (again, Im used to working on stripped out race cars..) If you are pulling the head unit.....what are the steps (and how do I avoid breaking every little plastic tab I come in contact with?)
     
  14. Sep 7, 2016 at 6:44 PM
    #34
    Texas T

    Texas T Well-Known Member

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    YouTube is your friend
     
  15. Sep 7, 2016 at 7:14 PM
    #35
    jamiec

    jamiec Man who keep hands in pockets feel cocky all day

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    Gently pry hvac controls out. The unit is held in with 4 10mm bolts. Remove those and pull it straight out. The radio and the black trim around the radio will come out in one piece.
     
  16. Sep 7, 2016 at 7:50 PM
    #36
    GYOAZ

    GYOAZ Well-Known Member

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    This was the most useful piece of info for me
     
    FrieightPusher likes this.
  17. Sep 25, 2016 at 7:55 AM
    #37
    tacomaluver

    tacomaluver Member

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    exhaust, cold air intake, lights and a westin black/stainless bullbar dual exhaust after muffler/ unichp and a trd short throw shifter rear sway bar optima yellow top redline hood struts
    To everyone who said don't go to *********, you are 1000% correct. I went to their site and ordered up kits for both front and rear. Then got hit with a $93 shipping fee. What did i get for my money......NOTHING. I get an email stating my order is complete and a shipping label was generated. That was 5 days ago. Since then I have tried to contact them. I tried calling, emailing and i even tried their chat box. All I wanted to know was what is the status of my order. Their lack of response and overall customer service SUCKS!!!!!!!! For anyone who was screwed over by them...I share your pain.
     
  18. Sep 26, 2016 at 2:02 PM
    #38
    tacotunesJosh

    tacotunesJosh Well-Known Member

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    @tacomaluver I have replied twice to your ticket today
    -josh
     
  19. Sep 26, 2016 at 5:10 PM
    #39
    tacotunesJosh

    tacotunesJosh Well-Known Member

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    @tacomaluver as stated in the ticket your order is awaiting next pickup via usps
    I threw in a lanyard, shirt, and one of our stainless steel tumbler cups for the hassle.
    again my apologies on the miscommunication.
    everything will be on the way shortly and you should see your order no later than Thursday or Friday
    -josh
     
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  20. Sep 27, 2016 at 11:32 AM
    #40
    watercrawl

    watercrawl Member

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    $93 for shipping? Did you order a new Tacoma with the speakers?
     
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