Darth Taco

My build will be a little slow, as we all know things get expensive. I am creating this thread after my catback was installed, so that isn't included here. First project is my CB install. I am open to suggestions and any tricks people have learned along the way! Enjoy!

***EDIT***
First part is the CB install
Second part is the Aux system
Third is the rear LED install
The front guard, LED, rock sliders, and NEW air temp gauge are on page 3.
Supercharger, intake adapter, belt cover, hood louvers on some page after that.

 

First step was figuring out how to mount this thing. Turns out, I can do it without removing the wireless charging pad! I did leave it unplugged after I reassembled, so it won't cause interference with the radio. Oh, and I am using a Uniden 520XL.

I first identified the point at which my power lines would enter the engine bay. I chose to use this area pictured. It is located on the passenger side of the firewall. I made a small hole just big enough for a couple wires to get through. This plug is like a cone on the other side and was a bitch to hold and cut a hole at the same time.



I fed wire from the bay into the cab, since the wires from the radio were too short. This view is from the passenger side looking forward with the side panel by the feet removed:



Then I fed the wires from where the radio will be to the extension wires. I removed the LED above the charge pad and used that hole to route the wires behind the dash, along (and under) the carpet, and to the other wire.




Then I spliced the wires together. I may or may not have acquired these splices from my deployment kit...



After that, it is on to the engine bay where I used tape to help plan out where I would secure the wires. Then I removed the tape, added a protective sleeve, and secured it with good ol' zip ties. At the battery end, I tucked the wires behind a plastic cover until I have more time to work on it.



After all that, I mounted the bracket. I wanted to try doing this without drilling, but it was unavoidable. Mounted just in front of the shifter. Had to move it over and tuck the mic cord back because it was in the way when I was in reverse. In the pics, my shifter is in the reverse position.



That's as far as I got today. I will post more pics as I move forward with the install. Most of my parts are still in the mail.

 

Got the terminals installed and hooked up. Wires are tucked away nicely. Had to get a 90 degree adapter for my antenna line so that it would fit where the radio is mounted. Then I stuck the antenna in the bed with the line through the sliding window to give it a try! Lots of background noise, but I still need to fine tune it. I was able to hear, but nobody replied back. I may not have the power to TX very far off the island.

 

Just want to give you a heads up. That power wire off the battery, the fuse should be as close to the battery as possible. Your fuse is on the inside of Vehicle in the center part of the dash. If that ever shorts out its going to arch and burn up from the battery to that fuse. That's a lot of wire and can cause a fire. Just a heads up

 

Thanks for the heads up. I will do some splicing and move the fuse to the engine bay.

 

Today I ran an antenna line. This is no off the shelf line. This is LMR-240 ultra low-loss and shielded coax cable. I ran it back along the passenger side underneath the sills and behind the rear seats. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the skin below the level of the bed. I then threaded the line under the plastic guards on the bed, right back to my antenna mount. The mount that I currently have is temporary until I get the one I ordered. Then I built an SMA inside and a TNC outside. Now all I need is a couple adapters, and I'm in business!

 

All fixed! The fuse is now in the engine bay.

 

nice write up.

 

And now that I am just waiting for a couple connector adapters, the only thing left to install for this project is............ the PA speaker. Zero practical uses, unlimited impractical uses. Just for fun! The line more or less followed the power lines. So far, no interference.

I was able to tuck the speaker behind an air deflector, so you can't even tell that it's there!

 

The final pieces are in. I got a bed rail tab from http://www.relentlessfabrication.com/ and some adapters from Amazon.

 

So I am getting a LOT of interference from the engine and brake booster. I have a few things planned to combat this:

1. I will use a shielded twisted pair for my power lines.
2. The new power lines will be routed around the FRONT of the engine bay, away from the booster.
3. I will place ferrite beads along the power lines to try and cancel out more noise.

I will post pics when I actually get around to doing this.

 

What PA is that? Amazon link?

 

$23 Pyle All-Weather Mono Trumpet Horn Speaker - 5” Portable PA Speaker with 8 Ohms Impedance & 25 Watts Peak Power - 180 Degree Swiveling Adjustable Bracket for Easy Maneuverability - Pyle PSP8

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D0LMG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Read the first review. You won't be disappointed.

 

Where did you ground the unit? Perhaps try a solid ground point first. And keep your ground as short as possible. Also your power you ran out on the passanger side? Perhaps your better off keeping that short going through a grommet on the drivers side. Longer the cable the larger the chance to induce noise. Try to keep away from large power wires and from running along parallel with them. If you must come in contact with one try and cross it at a 90 degree angle or as close to one as possible. I would save shielding for a last resort. That usually doesnt do much for noise being induced through power lines. Normally a good ground will help tremendously

 

I am grounded to one of the main ground points in the engine bay. I ran through the passenger side because the grommets on the driver side were all harder to use because they all went under the dash.

 

Ground inside the vehicle behind the dash or kick panel area somewhere. Shortening that ground wire will probably help you out a lot

 

I will try that, thanks!

 

I use as large of power cable as possible (10 gauge at least) especially for runs
from battery to radio's on back wall behind rear seat.. I used a couple feet of ground (again, as large and short as possible) to go under cab to frame for my Icom 7000 or Icom 2730A. Although I only use 10M & 2M mostly in vehicle (sometimes 20M)...

Oooops, I meant to put this in the cb specifics thread... Oh, well.. Info still applies
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cb-specifics.434871/page-20

 

Quick update:

I moved my power wire so that it routes around the front of the engine bay and used a shielded wire as well. I shortened the ground to inside the cab, and placed ferrite beads along the ground and power lines. My interference has quieted, but not gone away. Turns out, I am still getting some from the antenna. I tried moving the antenna line away from all power/ ground lines and it still had issues. The only thing that stopped it was un plugging the antenna. I guess I will have to deal with a little interference for now. I'm tired of dealing with it.

My next mods will be a grill guard and sliders. I won't be doing a lot of heavy off roading, so I don't need a 200lb bumper for the front, just a solid place to tie straps to when I'm using the roof racks.

 

Update to my mod plans (not in order):
EDITED 16 October, 2021

1. Going to fabricate an aux fuse system with a 6 fuse box and a relay controlled by ignition. COMPLETED (3d Printed)
2. That aux system will run a few things:
a) CB (already installed)
b) Front LED bar (Probably cali raised 31.5")COMPLETED
c) Rear flood ligts (Lower priority) COMPLETED
d) Electronic exhaust cutout valve ABANDONED
3. Avid front bumper guard, Line-X coated. COMPLETED + REAR GUARD
4. Avid Sliders, also Line-X'd COMPLETED (Steps, not sliders)
5. Supercharger (WAAAAAAAY WAAAAY down the line...) ON ORDER FROM MAGNUSON!