Wood Heat Thread ~ post pics

Supposedly this stuff is UV-proof, but since they only warranty for 5 years I guess that's probably how long it's UV-proof, haha!
But, if they're willing to warranty it for that long, even with the possibility of being in direct sun constantly, I figure that it should last a good long while behind my house, where it only really only sees direct sun for 5-6 hours a day.
But if it turns out to be crap, I'll just put a steel roof on there instead.

 

I'm in PA and have had that stuff on a shed roof for ~20 years. It's susceptible to cracks from branches falling on it, but it hasn't been damaged by exposure to sun. My shed is against the woods so it sees some sun but not a lot.

 

Congrats!
We heat with a Pellet stove and have been averaging 3tons per winter. Last year came in under 2. We have been paying $198/ton and always buy on sale. 65 is a bit chilly for us. Our target is 70F and the Pellet stove has no problems hitting that

 

Good to know. Encouraging, lol.

 

These fans are cheap enough and they really do a heck of a job circulating heat. They're fairly noisy, but they'll let you push the heat from the pellet stove around the house a bit more. I've got a pair that are 4 years old this year and still working fine.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/EntreeAir-5-in-Single-Speed-Door-Frame-Fan-in-White-RR100/100080304

 

With the pellet stove, I set the thermostat around 72 (harman accentra insert). I tried the local home depot pellets (average $210/ton) and they are the cheapest around me in Massachusetts. They clogged the stove pretty quickly and had trouble igniting. Woke up to a freezing house once when the automatic start failed to get a fire going. Since then, I shell out a little more for a higher grade pellet - they burn cleaner, nice fluffy ash with minimal clinkers.

Figured with oil I may keep it a little cooler as there wont be hot/cold spots in the house - a steady 65. Who knows, the wife and baby will dictate how warm I keep the house. Need to just bite the bullet and insulate better - could save myself a lot more.

 

I've been trying to talk her into a couple of these for years. Finally the leverage I need! Thanks

When we bought ours the salesman recommended against auto start, said they weren't very reliable (at that time) As it turned out we pretty much run it 24/7 when the temps get down to 20F or less

 

If you've got any ceiling fans, run those too. They'll help move the air around as well, and if you put them on 'reverse' they'll draw warmer air across the ceiling and blow it down to where it's more useful.

 

Yep, do that too. They run year round, forward in summer, reverse in winter

 

Warmer air rises, wouldn't it make sense to run a fan foward (push air down) in winter and opposite in summer?

 

That would make sense, but it doesn't work as well as running in reverse and push the air across the ceiling. I know it sounds counter intuitive but it's true. Forward in the summer. Reverse in the winter

 

I run a wildfire in a Welenco insert in the fireplace. In case you aren't familiar with it, it has 4 tubes that pull air from in front of and below the fireplace and blow out above the fireplace, pushed by 2 small fans. It doesn't push the heat very far, but radiant takes it across the house a ways. My trick is to turn on just the fan from central air. Fireplace is on middle floor, furnace in basement, bedrooms on top floor. The furnace pulls air from about the middle of the house and blows it all around. Seems to do the job for me.

Ignore this post...it won't help your cause

 

^This

Ceiling fans don't change temperature in a room, but blowing air on the occupants in the summer makes them feel cooler. In the winter, you don't want air blowing on you to cool your skin. But reversing the fan will force warm air to circulate, and not just sit under the ceiling.

 

Question about chainsaws. I have a husky 55 and it seems that the space betweem the where there throttle trigger handle and the rest of the saw body is a little too far apart on mine. I cant fully throttle it up unless i physically squeeze the saw together. Is there some way to adjust that gap? I cant seem to find anything on the subject on the interwebs yet.

 

Sounds like you are missing a bolt or 2 right off hand. Not going to claim to be an expert on saws or even know husky. I'm running ancient McCullough and finding parts is the hardest part.

 

I know its supposed to flex, but it feels likes its damn near worn out and just stays with the gap wide. Are there bishings in there that can wear out? Ive never delved into this part of a saw. Im newb at it really, but man its killing me.

 

Just looked at pics online, and best I can say is tear into it and look for weak parts, stuff that is worn down, broken, etc near the handle

 

If it's anything like my 51 (which it should be), I think there's a rubber-insulated bolt where the lower part of the handle hooks into the main saw body that holds the handle rigid against the saw body. I'd check that out first; if the bolts missing or the rubber is smoked that could give you some slop. You can check the linkage from the trigger to the carb as well, just by popping off the air filter cover, to make sure the linkage isn't bent or something. That's where I'd start.
I'm working from memory, though. I'll take a peek at my '51 when I get home and try to give you some more specific suggestions.

 

Thanks fellas. Ill start looking around

 

i had a broken pin holding the trigger in place allowing the trigger to not connect with the trigger linkages in the main body.